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#1 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Aug 2004
Posts: 20
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Untraditional Aquascaping for a reef
Hi all,
Looking to get back into the game, I've had a 75g reef and 180g FOWLR in the past, looking to set back up another reef, 55-75g. Anyways, I'm hoping to have aquascaping that will appear to be an "under a pier" sort of setting, with the simulation of wooden dock pilings coming down to the sand with some areas of live rock rubble or something.. maybe concrete pilings. Do you all have any recommendations for the best way to construct them? Wood or PVC or otherwise and how to get them looking good? I was thinking usinng like 3" PVC, and then coating them with foam and like rolling them in some rock rubble (if I'm simulating concrete pilings), but what about a wooden look? Ideally, the pilings will have some sort of ledges and be at angles such that corals will be able to grow vertically/diagonally around them. Looking forward to suggestions... Mike |
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#2 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: PA
Posts: 755
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The wood pillars would look pretty amazing but I'm not sure how you'd pull it off. Do they have some type of clear coat you could put over the wood to prevent any salt water penetration that wouldn't leak chemicals into the water? I mean if you could get a product like that then you could definately do the wood. If you put untreated/sealed wood in the water, it will rot.
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#3 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: NYC
Posts: 360
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some kinds of manzanita wood can be submerged in SW without treatment.
Dan |
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#4 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Flagstaff, Az
Posts: 94
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I'm not sure what material u could use, but just an idea for a wood pillar is to use some sort of clay wrapped around a pvc pipe, and use a metal brush to put vertical striations like you would see in wood. Then use some aquarium safe brown and black paint to mimic the color of wood. I've heard horror stories about people using real wood in tanks and it just falling to pieces, but i've never tried it myself. Please post pics when ur done, i'd love to see the finished product!
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#5 |
Registered Member
Join Date: May 2011
Posts: 66
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Pine is also waterproof.
The pull pine from the bottom of lakes that have been there for 100+ years and they are like new. |
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#6 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Harmony,fl
Posts: 1,292
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Hydraulic cement does not need to cure. Regular concrete need at least 2 months. You may be able to coat wood with fiberglass resin, It is inert when dry.
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#7 | |
Registered Member
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Huntsville, AL
Posts: 2,736
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Quote:
Either way, I would make fake wood pilings out of DIY rock mix. You can even use real tree bark as a surface mold stamp. Last edited by noahm; 07/22/2011 at 02:07 PM. |
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#8 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: belgium
Posts: 272
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PVC with pond foam and/or cement for texture.
Don' t use real wood.
__________________
The metric system is the tool of the devil! My car gets 40 rods to the hogshead and that's the way I likes it Current Tank Info: 100 g soft reef, 100 g and 120 g Mediterranean tanks, 400 g deepwater reef, 1000 g FOWLR in the making |
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#9 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Aug 2004
Posts: 20
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Thanks guys.
Ok, now, best thoughts on how to create a faux wood grain on the pvc? Or do you think it will look better to do concrete looking columns with rock rubble foamed in. Probably the rubble.. |
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#10 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: 58703
Posts: 1,265
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Foam would seem to be ideal, but you will have a big problem neutralizing the buoyancy, especially if you want the pilings to be spread throughout the tank and not just anchored to the back wall. If they come loose and float, they could smash into your lighting or worse, the glass.
__________________
T5-powered (ex-LED club member) SPS-dominant 50g. Cadlights CUBE. Current Tank Info: 16g biocube |
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