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09/28/2011, 03:28 PM | #1 |
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Number of plugs inside stand?
I'm having an electrician come out in 2 weeks to add the plugs that I'm going to use for the new tank (120 gal mixed) and was wondering how many plugs I could possibly ever need. I told him 5 receptacles, which means I've got room for 10 things just in the sump area (lights and vortechs will be up top). That should be enough, right? Skimmer,Main Pump, 2 heaters, Fuge Light and maybe a fan, and possibly a reactor pump or 2 down the road. Am I missing anything or is 5 good??
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09/28/2011, 03:46 PM | #2 |
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LOL, that should be plenty! I only have 2 receptacles. You can use power strips mounted inside your stand to increase the available outlets.
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09/28/2011, 03:57 PM | #3 |
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that should be good it's better to have more then not enough.
I have 2 receptacles but also use 4 power strips
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09/28/2011, 04:01 PM | #4 |
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Cool... Thanks. I figured that would be plenty. I figured since I'm getting it done I'd have him mount everything instead of worrying about power strips and stuff.
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09/28/2011, 06:26 PM | #5 | |
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Quote:
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09/28/2011, 06:54 PM | #6 |
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I have 2 DEDICATED circuits for redundancy. I split as much equip as possible between them. 2x pwr heads on A, 2x pwr heads on B, skimmer on A, return on B, 1x heater on A, 1x heater on B. Half lights on A, half on B, etc.
Also make each cir GFCI.
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09/29/2011, 05:05 PM | #7 |
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Roger that on the GFCI... Definitely have that taken care of. I think he's only bringing one circuit over though. Is it a must to have 2 circuits? I went through all the equipment and wattage and he thought I only needed one.
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09/29/2011, 05:32 PM | #8 |
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Correct me if I'm wrong, but isn't it more important to have enough amps rather than outlets? The lighting itself would be close to 12 or so amps if using MH?
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09/29/2011, 05:37 PM | #9 |
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I'm not sure actually... I'm not using MH though if that matters. Dimmable sunpower (8x54). Not sure what kind of amps that will draw.
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09/29/2011, 06:00 PM | #10 |
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If you're going to be paying an electrician adding outlets isn't the priority. Power strips plugged into correctly wired circuits are a lot cheaper than having an electrician add outlets.
Adding a circuit is the #1 priority. If one breaker/GFCI trips you want the other one to keep the tank going. As previously pointed out splitting equipment between outlets creates redundancy. Priority #2 is to have both circuits protected by a GFCI at the first outlet.
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09/29/2011, 08:55 PM | #11 |
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Hi tmerf11,
Just in case you are interested; amps = watts \ volts So for your example; 8 x 54 watts = 432 watts 432 watts \ 120 volts (I think that's right for the US) = 3.6 Amps. This does not take into consideration efficiency loss or power factor, but the difference for a load like this would be very close to 0 amps. The above equation is also very useful when working out load capacity on a circuit. Add up all the wattage's of the devices, work out amps and make sure your circuit is rated for it. I think US home circuits are rated for 20 AMPS, but am not sure. Your electrician will be able to confirm that. Have Fun Mark Last edited by markdem; 09/29/2011 at 09:01 PM. |
09/29/2011, 09:15 PM | #12 |
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^ good math but other than microwaves most circuits are 15 amp in the US...Betting that the second circuit won't cost 2X...
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09/30/2011, 06:45 AM | #13 |
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I agree with the two circuit minimum, both GFCI protected. I have had both power strips and receptacles in the stands I've built over the years. I think the receptacles give it a much cleaner look. I used 3 double boxes on 2 circuits to give myself 10 plug ins and a master switch for each side on my old stand for my 150g. I used 12g grounded wire to connect them to 20A GFCI receptacles in the wall behind the stand. I would suggest using plastic plug protectors to minimize salt/corrosion issues in the unused plugs.
JM.02
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09/30/2011, 07:33 AM | #14 |
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While I may get blasted for this....you may want to think about having one of the receptacles not be a GFI. While their reliability has gotten better over the years, they still can be touchy. I can't tell you how many threads I've come across over the years of people having their tanks crash simply because a GFI shut down, allowing their tank to go for hours without water movement. I agree that having a majority of the equipment on a GFI is the safe way to go, but for me, I don't want my tank to rely on such an unreliable piece of gear.
If you design and install the system properly, I.E. use drip loops, keep equipment off the floor, install spash guards, etc. a GFI isn't all that necessary.
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09/30/2011, 08:40 AM | #15 |
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Thanks for all the replies. I'm going to call the electrician tonight and I think I'll end up with 2 circuits. Most likely 1 circuit for the lights and vortechs and maybe a backup heater and then 1 circuit for under the stand. That way if I trip anything underneath I'll still have the water moving.
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