HOB Overflow Recommendation - Page 2

Chris27 · 11/16/2011, 11:19 AM

Scare tactics? Erroneous...False...this thread over a seemingly trivial topic has escalated in your mind as a personal attack against you and what would seem like a product you benefit from financially.

I'm mearly pointing out the obvious my friend. The fact of the matter is that a drilled overflow drains water without the need for a siphon. Water enters a box or pipe and drains to the sump. There are no complex parts needed, no start up procedures, easy as pie.

When it comes to an HOB overflow, gravity prevents the system from working up front, once it's flowing, sure, gravity does the work.

A drilled overflow is full proof, it can't loose a siphon, air bubbles can not build up in a U-tube, and a U-tube can't be removed...let also not forget that you don't need to manually suck air through the plumbing to get it to work.

When it comes to this hobby, there is no argument that bulletproofing your system is the way to go, why would you trust your tank to a pair of tubes if you don't have to?

sporto0 · 11/16/2011, 11:34 AM

I'm not going to argue anymore Chris, you are a smart guy, but on your first post you said "drill the tank, & you will be one step closer to dry, undamaged floors". I find this to be a scare tactic, everyone dreads a flooded floor, one could say as soon as we put a box of water in our living rooms, we are one step closer to a wet floor. You use words like bulletproof to describe a drilled system? Can a pipe get clogged? Yes. Can that cause the pump to flood the display tank? Yes. Bulletproof it is not! I'm not going to pro & con you unless you want to have that discussion, the OP originally stated he did NOT want to drill, & wanted to know a good overflow box, what was your response? Drill, because if you don't your floor will flood.

UCT · 11/16/2011, 11:43 AM

From what I have seen by searching this site (which incidentally has an answer to almost every question imanginable), flooding is more common with a drilled tank. Even reports of flooding with two drilled holes where a snail crawled into each hole. Reported flooding due to HOB seems related to people allowing algae to accumulate in the U Tube such that suction is broken. I guess the Eshopps could be okay if the U Tube is replaced with a longer one.

Back to my main question which is which unit for a 40 breeder. Is 300 gph enough, or should I go for 600 gph, 800, or 1000 and regulate flow with a ball valve?

Toddrtrex · 11/16/2011, 11:47 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by UCT

From what I have seen by searching this site (which incidentally has an answer to almost every question imanginable), flooding is more common with a drilled tank. Even reports of flooding with two drilled holes where a snail crawled into each hole. Reported flooding due to HOB seems related to people allowing algae to accumulate in the U Tube such that suction is broken. I guess the Eshopps could be okay if the U Tube is replaced with a longer one.

Back to my main question which is which unit for a 40 breeder. Is 300 gph enough, or should I go for 600 gph, 800, or 1000 and regulate flow with a ball valve?

Honestly, I wouldn't bother with the Eshopps one -- just get a LifeReef (( I have used both )).

What size sump are you going to be running? I tend to prefer slow flow through the sump and use powerheads for the intank flow.

sporto0 · 11/16/2011, 11:54 AM

I agree with Todd about the flow, if your protein skimmer & refugium are in the sump, a slower flow is a better solution, I would think that 600gph would suffice for a 40b, of course you must figure in the gph for the height or "head" of the pump you plan to use. As far as the Eshopps vs LifeReef goes, I have never used a LifeReef, they are newer & If someone like Todd who has used both says they are better, I would be comfortable using the LifeReef.

EllieSuz · 11/16/2011, 12:10 PM

If you decide to go with LifeReef, Jeff will help you select the perfect sized pump and even supply it with the rest of your order if you like. He sent me everything I needed to hook it up, including all the hose and the ball valve for the pump, as well as the Mag Drive 9.5 as a return pump. He's been doing this a long time and he has all the answers. At least go to his site and get familiar with it. A few weeks ago I thought, "I haven't cleaned the overflow box in over a year". So I took it all apart and except for some coralline algae, it was clean as a whistle. That doesn't mean you shouldn't have a look inside it once in the while, but getting clogged with algae is an extremely remote possibility. Be certain to drill a 1/4" hose in the return nozzle to break the siphon and also be sure to clean that little hole out once in the while. You will not have a flood.

cloak · 11/16/2011, 12:22 PM

UCT · 11/16/2011, 01:10 PM

Okay, you guys talked me into the Lifereef. I will call and get the advice. Thanks.

11/16/2011, 11:19 AM	#26
Chris27 Registered Member Join Date: Sep 2009 Location: Virginia Beach, VA Posts: 4,452	Scare tactics? Erroneous...False...this thread over a seemingly trivial topic has escalated in your mind as a personal attack against you and what would seem like a product you benefit from financially. I'm mearly pointing out the obvious my friend. The fact of the matter is that a drilled overflow drains water without the need for a siphon. Water enters a box or pipe and drains to the sump. There are no complex parts needed, no start up procedures, easy as pie. When it comes to an HOB overflow, gravity prevents the system from working up front, once it's flowing, sure, gravity does the work. A drilled overflow is full proof, it can't loose a siphon, air bubbles can not build up in a U-tube, and a U-tube can't be removed...let also not forget that you don't need to manually suck air through the plumbing to get it to work. When it comes to this hobby, there is no argument that bulletproofing your system is the way to go, why would you trust your tank to a pair of tubes if you don't have to? __________________ Fill your tank with $5 bills, add gasoline and light it on fire.....only then will you know the real cost of reefing. Current Tank Info: 180 Mixed Reef

11/16/2011, 12:10 PM	#31
EllieSuz Premium Member Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: Rochester, NY Posts: 3,858	If you decide to go with LifeReef, Jeff will help you select the perfect sized pump and even supply it with the rest of your order if you like. He sent me everything I needed to hook it up, including all the hose and the ball valve for the pump, as well as the Mag Drive 9.5 as a return pump. He's been doing this a long time and he has all the answers. At least go to his site and get familiar with it. A few weeks ago I thought, "I haven't cleaned the overflow box in over a year". So I took it all apart and except for some coralline algae, it was clean as a whistle. That doesn't mean you shouldn't have a look inside it once in the while, but getting clogged with algae is an extremely remote possibility. Be certain to drill a 1/4" hose in the return nozzle to break the siphon and also be sure to clean that little hole out once in the while. You will not have a flood. __________________ "You can't learn this hobby one question at a time." (Mr. Tuskfish) Eileen Current Tank Info: I'm out of the hobby, but used to have a60 gal. reef, refugium in sump, Internal Mag 9 return, SC 302 skimmer, two Maxi-Jet 1200's modded, four bulb T5 Lighting, Reefkeeper Lite Controller with three PC4's, Little Fishes GFO reactor.

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11/16/2011, 11:34 AM	#27
sporto0 Moved On Join Date: Apr 2010 Location: Pittsburgh, Pa. Posts: 2,924	I'm not going to argue anymore Chris, you are a smart guy, but on your first post you said "drill the tank, & you will be one step closer to dry, undamaged floors". I find this to be a scare tactic, everyone dreads a flooded floor, one could say as soon as we put a box of water in our living rooms, we are one step closer to a wet floor. You use words like bulletproof to describe a drilled system? Can a pipe get clogged? Yes. Can that cause the pump to flood the display tank? Yes. Bulletproof it is not! I'm not going to pro & con you unless you want to have that discussion, the OP originally stated he did NOT want to drill, & wanted to know a good overflow box, what was your response? Drill, because if you don't your floor will flood.

11/16/2011, 11:43 AM	#28
UCT Registered Member Join Date: Sep 2011 Location: 90720 Posts: 142	From what I have seen by searching this site (which incidentally has an answer to almost every question imanginable), flooding is more common with a drilled tank. Even reports of flooding with two drilled holes where a snail crawled into each hole. Reported flooding due to HOB seems related to people allowing algae to accumulate in the U Tube such that suction is broken. I guess the Eshopps could be okay if the U Tube is replaced with a longer one. Back to my main question which is which unit for a 40 breeder. Is 300 gph enough, or should I go for 600 gph, 800, or 1000 and regulate flow with a ball valve?

11/16/2011, 11:54 AM	#30
sporto0 Moved On Join Date: Apr 2010 Location: Pittsburgh, Pa. Posts: 2,924	I agree with Todd about the flow, if your protein skimmer & refugium are in the sump, a slower flow is a better solution, I would think that 600gph would suffice for a 40b, of course you must figure in the gph for the height or "head" of the pump you plan to use. As far as the Eshopps vs LifeReef goes, I have never used a LifeReef, they are newer & If someone like Todd who has used both says they are better, I would be comfortable using the LifeReef.

11/16/2011, 12:22 PM	#32
cloak Moved On Join Date: Jul 2000 Location: Stockton, CA Posts: 14,854

11/16/2011, 01:10 PM	#33
UCT Registered Member Join Date: Sep 2011 Location: 90720 Posts: 142	Okay, you guys talked me into the Lifereef. I will call and get the advice. Thanks.