Stand help

scubaman2 · 12/08/2011, 11:55 AM

I have built the stand below. It is a little wobbly but when my daughter and I sat on the sides the wobble disappeared and it was level. My question is, should I skin it with the tank on so the wood does not settle when the skin is already on? any thoughts would be helpful.

The stand is for a 120g

Donw · 12/08/2011, 01:16 PM

Don't need the tank. Just make sure its square and the tops flat before attaching the skins.

Don

scubaman2 · 12/08/2011, 01:50 PM

It is square and flat. Thanks for the reply.

eizzle · 12/08/2011, 05:47 PM

Is your floor flat? That could be more of the problem than your stand. You could skin it either way, but I would set it in Place and shim it before you fill it up to make sure it stays level, all that weight will make things settle pretty quick, but if it's built solid (looks pretty stout in the pics) it probably won't shift enough to hurt anything.

scubaman2 · 12/08/2011, 06:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by eizzle

Is your floor flat? That could be more of the problem than your stand. You could skin it either way, but I would set it in Place and shim it before you fill it up to make sure it stays level, all that weight will make things settle pretty quick, but if it's built solid (looks pretty stout in the pics) it probably won't shift enough to hurt anything.

Yes the floor is flat. I plan on setting it in place and shimming if needed. I recently had a 75g in the spot I am putting the 120. There were no issues with the smaller tank.

eizzle · 12/08/2011, 07:06 PM

You'll probably be fine, the skin will actually lock the framing in place, so it shouldn't shift on you.

uncleof6 · 12/08/2011, 07:07 PM

A stand, by the nature of the job it performs, must be square, flat, corners coplaner, and level-- with no weight or stress placed on the stand. If weight is required to make the stand "not rock" then something is out of wack, and when the tank is placed on the stand, the stress to "straighten" the stand will be transferred to the tank. This refers to the top rim of the stand. A long straight edge will confirm if the top is straight (not twisted) and if the corners are co-planer. if the top is out of wack-- shims will not solve the problem and will create more. If the bottom is what is out of wack, then shims under the stand can be used. just sayin

scubaman2 · 12/08/2011, 07:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by uncleof6

A stand, by the nature of the job it performs, must be square, flat, corners coplaner, and level-- with no weight or stress placed on the stand. If weight is required to make the stand "not rock" then something is out of wack, and when the tank is placed on the stand, the stress to "straighten" the stand will be transferred to the tank. This refers to the top rim of the stand. A long straight edge will confirm if the top is straight (not twisted) and if the corners are co-planer. if the top is out of wack-- shims will not solve the problem and will create more. If the bottom is what is out of wack, then shims under the stand can be used. just sayin

Are you suggesting I rebuild the bottom? I was considering doing that. I believe the problem is with the bottom frame. Curious why/how the level would show level with and without the weight.

Donw · 12/09/2011, 11:22 AM

Your stand is off somewhere, your using construction lumber its not going to be exact. Just make sure the top is flat. Use a straight edge, if its flat then check the sides for square and skin it. The bottom can be shimmed against the floor, the top is the part that you need to worry about. Dont use the weight of the tank to take out the wobble just use shims.

Don

davocean · 12/09/2011, 11:47 AM

In building stands I always pull a tape from corner to corner to check for square, and throw a straight edge on to check top.
I personally like to add a ply sub top, that way everything is stitched together, and that helps in pulling top planular, and adds a great deal more strength.
It could be your floor is out and weight on top flexed it to the floor, hopefully that is the case.
It looks solid and level from the pics, but really a tape and straight edge is needed to really check.

davocean · 12/09/2011, 11:48 AM

double

uncleof6 · 12/09/2011, 12:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by scubaman2

Are you suggesting I rebuild the bottom? I was considering doing that. I believe the problem is with the bottom frame. Curious why/how the level would show level with and without the weight.

The concern is strictly the top rim/top of the stand. As long as it is square, flat (co-planer), any inconsistencies at the bottom, and leveling of the stand, can be dealt with by the use of shims at the bottom of the stand. If the top is out of wack, then the top must be "re-worked" to comply with the requirements. Lumber stands are difficult to get right due to lumber not being flat, straight etc.

scubaman2 · 12/09/2011, 10:03 PM

The top is fine. I am going to skin and shim. Thank you all for your input.

scubaman2 · 12/10/2011, 09:42 PM

Ok, the wobble was driving me nuts. I rebuilt it. No wobble this time. Also got the skin cut and ready to attach. Almost there.

scubaman2 · 12/12/2011, 12:01 PM

Also decided to add a piece of ply on top.

12/08/2011, 07:07 PM	#7
uncleof6 Registered Member Join Date: Jul 2004 Location: AWOL Posts: 12,013	A stand, by the nature of the job it performs, must be square, flat, corners coplaner, and level-- with no weight or stress placed on the stand. If weight is required to make the stand "not rock" then something is out of wack, and when the tank is placed on the stand, the stress to "straighten" the stand will be transferred to the tank. This refers to the top rim of the stand. A long straight edge will confirm if the top is straight (not twisted) and if the corners are co-planer. if the top is out of wack-- shims will not solve the problem and will create more. If the bottom is what is out of wack, then shims under the stand can be used. just sayin __________________ "Things should be made as simple as possible, but not simpler." (oft attributed to Einstein; most likely paraphrasing by Roger Sessions; compactly articulates the principle of Occam's Razor) Current Tank Info: 325 6' wide Reef

12/09/2011, 11:47 AM	#10
davocean Registered Member Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: San Diego, CA Posts: 14,655	In building stands I always pull a tape from corner to corner to check for square, and throw a straight edge on to check top. I personally like to add a ply sub top, that way everything is stitched together, and that helps in pulling top planular, and adds a great deal more strength. It could be your floor is out and weight on top flexed it to the floor, hopefully that is the case. It looks solid and level from the pics, but really a tape and straight edge is needed to really check. __________________ There's a fine line between owning your tank and your tank owning you! Current Tank Info: SCA 120g RR Starfire, Tunze silence 1073.02 return, 40g sump w/ fuge, SWC Extreme 160 cone skimmer,Geismann reflexx 4xT5, 2x Panorama Pro LED strips, Vortech MP40QD

12/09/2011, 11:48 AM	#11
davocean Registered Member Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: San Diego, CA Posts: 14,655	double __________________ There's a fine line between owning your tank and your tank owning you! Current Tank Info: SCA 120g RR Starfire, Tunze silence 1073.02 return, 40g sump w/ fuge, SWC Extreme 160 cone skimmer,Geismann reflexx 4xT5, 2x Panorama Pro LED strips, Vortech MP40QD

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12/08/2011, 01:16 PM	#2
Donw Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2004 Location: Tacoma, WA Posts: 2,334	Don't need the tank. Just make sure its square and the tops flat before attaching the skins. Don

12/08/2011, 01:50 PM	#3
scubaman2 Registered Member Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: RI Posts: 104	It is square and flat. Thanks for the reply.

12/08/2011, 05:47 PM	#4
eizzle Registered Member Join Date: Dec 2011 Location: Greencastle, IN Posts: 42	Is your floor flat? That could be more of the problem than your stand. You could skin it either way, but I would set it in Place and shim it before you fill it up to make sure it stays level, all that weight will make things settle pretty quick, but if it's built solid (looks pretty stout in the pics) it probably won't shift enough to hurt anything.

12/08/2011, 07:06 PM	#6
eizzle Registered Member Join Date: Dec 2011 Location: Greencastle, IN Posts: 42	You'll probably be fine, the skin will actually lock the framing in place, so it shouldn't shift on you.

12/09/2011, 11:22 AM	#9
Donw Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2004 Location: Tacoma, WA Posts: 2,334	Your stand is off somewhere, your using construction lumber its not going to be exact. Just make sure the top is flat. Use a straight edge, if its flat then check the sides for square and skin it. The bottom can be shimmed against the floor, the top is the part that you need to worry about. Dont use the weight of the tank to take out the wobble just use shims. Don

12/09/2011, 10:03 PM	#13
scubaman2 Registered Member Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: RI Posts: 104	The top is fine. I am going to skin and shim. Thank you all for your input.

12/10/2011, 09:42 PM	#14
scubaman2 Registered Member Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: RI Posts: 104	Ok, the wobble was driving me nuts. I rebuilt it. No wobble this time. Also got the skin cut and ready to attach. Almost there.

12/12/2011, 12:01 PM	#15
scubaman2 Registered Member Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: RI Posts: 104	Also decided to add a piece of ply on top.