RO/DI Problems (help please)

[Danzig]

Ime 100% new to RO/DI. I bought the 5-stage RO/DI plus system from BRS that comes with a dual TDS and pressure gauge. I just set it up with the faucet attachment in my bathroom. I have well water and i would assume low water pressure but im not sure. Anyways i hooked it up and i just have a few questions.
Im waiting 10 minutes to get an accurate TDS measure for the water coming out of the RO membrane. The water coming out of the DI is 0. (good)

-Should the DI membrain only have 1''-2'' of water in it?
-My pressure keeps jumping around from as low as 30 PSI to 50 PSI... whats going on?
-What can i do if my water pressure is too low? Im worried it is.

[SoLiD]

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[wingedfish]

Your di chamber is little resistance to flow so water level will only be as high as the output. For this reason the di should be oriented vertically.

Your pressure is fluctuating do to your well pump turning on and off. 30 psi is too low for good efficiency. You may want to purchase a booster pump for your r/o.

Is this flush valve a quarter turn ball valve? If so open is the handle in line with the valve. This is for flushing, and the turned/closed state is for r/o production.

[Danzig]

Originally Posted by SoLiD

Sent you a pm

Thanks Solid you cleared up a few important questions i had.

Im convinced my problem is low water pressure as i cant hold a steady pressure. Solid recommended a booster pump which is about $100-150 which is really expensive. Has anyone else had problems with low water pressure and if so what were your solutions? Is there another way around this, im really bummed out and its really discouraging.

I figure out the flush valve btw. It was closed.

[Danzig]

Ok so with a little more research it turns out i absolutely need a booster pump. Im pretty upset about having to spend more money on this because i spent $1.5k+ on my setup in the last month. Im going with the ones on BRS they are $140 for the whole kit with the transformer and everything else needed. ; (

[Buckeye Hydro]

You'll also need a liquid filled pressure gauge if you don't have one already. A booster pump will ruin a dry gauge.

Re the DI housing not filling up - you just have some air trapped in the housing. Because water has to travel up through the DI cartridge to get out of the housing, you can be assured that the RO water is exposed to the full DI column.

Best if you place the pump AFTER the prefilters but before the pressure gauge. Use a strainer right before the pump to protect the pump. Use a pressure switch if you want the pump to turn itself off. You may also want to use a shut off solenoid rather than an automatic shut off valve. The solenoid will work better for you.

Do you have anything at the end of the DI output tube? A float valve? If not, the pressure switch won't work for you.

Russ

[greg0385]

I have well water as well. The most important thing to do is-take the hose coming out of the membrane and run it into a container of some sort instead of it going into the diresin chamber. Add a airstone to bubble overnight. Then use a small cheap pump to pump airated water into the di resin chamber. WHY YOU MAY ASK? well water usually has high levels of co2 and that will use up your diresin really fast. By allowing it to airate over night will get rid of the co2. My well well water runs about 42psi and it doesnt make 75gpd but it does make about 50+gpd which i can live with.

[Danzig]

Originally Posted by BuckeyeFS

You'll also need a liquid filled pressure gauge if you don't have one already. A booster pump will ruin a dry gauge.

Re the DI housing not filling up - you just have some air trapped in the housing. Because water has to travel up through the DI cartridge to get out of the housing, you can be assured that the RO water is exposed to the full DI column.

Best if you place the pump AFTER the prefilters but before the pressure gauge. Use a strainer right before the pump to protect the pump. Use a pressure switch if you want the pump to turn itself off. You may also want to use a shut off solenoid rather than an automatic shut off valve. The solenoid will work better for you.

Do you have anything at the end of the DI output tube? A float valve? If not, the pressure switch won't work for you.

Russ

first off, can anyone else confirm that a booster pump will ruin a dry PSI gauge?

Are u serious... Now i need a Liquid gauge. This is getting old fast. Ok so from previous experience when something holds me back i need to run out and buy a $50-100 part or piece of equip. Let me guess its the same for this gauge? And i dont know where to buy one or how to install one though its probably really easy.



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[Meshmez]

You should be able to get a filled pressure gauge for under $20. It should be easy to install. I cant say for sure that the one you have will fail, but with the booster pump you get a LOT of needle "vibration" at the set point, which i could see as a potential failure mechanism. in the liquid filled gauge the liquid acts as a damper and doesnt let the needle vibrate as much.

As for the booster pump. you can see if you can adjust the existing booster pump on your entire water system. sometimes you can turn that up and have it work fine, sometimes you cant. if you cant though, i hate to say it but you will need a booster for your rodi unit (i was in the same boat when i got my rodi about a month ago...)

[Danzig]

Whats this about an existing booster pump? Is there a built in one on my rodi?




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[Meshmez]

Originally Posted by Danzig

Whats this about an existing booster pump? Is there a built in one on my rodi?




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No, you are on a well, right? you should have a pump somewhere on your MAIN WATER system pumping into your house. This is what im refering to.

[Danzig]

Originally Posted by Meshmez

No, you are on a well, right? you should have a pump somewhere on your MAIN WATER system pumping into your house. This is what im refering to.

oh ok yah ill look into that.

[MarkGP]

There should be a high/low pressure switch to control the well pump. Normally, they are set for 30 and 50 psi. You can change both or just the low. When I had well water I ran mine at 50 and 60. I got by without a booster pump for 5 years.

[Buckeye Hydro]

If you end up needing a liquid filled gauge because you get a booster pump - they are not expensive. We'll be happy to talk you though what fitting you may need to hook it up - again - none of this is expensive stuff, and it is all very easy to install.

Go ahead and hook a booster up with your existing gauge - if it lasts, great. If not, replace it with a liquid filled gauge.

You've got an RODI vendor and site sponsor helping you figure out what you need and you don't know where to get a gauge?

[Robb in Austin]

This ^ is why I love BFS! Answer questions, in a public forum, about a competitors product(although its not really a BRS problem).

Way to go Russ.

Reminds me that I need to order new filters.

[Danzig]

Thanks buckeye, if i need one ill check out your store. Didnt even see you were a sponsor lol

[Buckeye Hydro]

Originally Posted by MarkGP

There should be a high/low pressure switch to control the well pump. Normally, they are set for 30 and 50 psi. You can change both or just the low. When I had well water I ran mine at 50 and 60. I got by without a booster pump for 5 years.

Mark is right - the pressure switch on the well pump is typically adjustable. We find most customers have theirs set for a low of 40 psi and a high of 60 psi.

I've not done the arithmetic, but I wonder if over the long run a booster pump is cheaper than maintaining a higher pressure in the tank and entire plumbing system 24/7.

Russ

[Danzig]

I think its safe to say a booster pump in most situations is safer than putting extra work on an expensive well pump.




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[Meshmez]

Originally Posted by Danzig

I think its safe to say a booster pump in most situations is safer than putting extra work on an expensive well pump.




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I would tend to agree, not to mention you would be constantly running higher pressure in all your pipes. I just wanted to give you the option if you wanted to go that route and save ~$150. Every situation is different.

[Danzig]

Originally Posted by Meshmez

I would tend to agree, not to mention you would be constantly running higher pressure in all your pipes. I just wanted to give you the option if you wanted to go that route and save ~$150. Every situation is different.

I totally am not against raising the pressure for my well pump, that is ideally what i want to do, i just need to consult with my father (head of household) before i go tinkering around with his stuff. I appreciate your input.

[Meshmez]

Originally Posted by Danzig

I totally am not against raising the pressure for my well pump, that is ideally what i want to do, i just need to consult with my father (head of household) before i go tinkering around with his stuff. I appreciate your input.

Nah, just go mess with it, Fathers love when you do that...


I'm kidding, of course...

[SoLiD]

Originally Posted by Danzig

Thanks Solid you cleared up a few important questions i had.

Im convinced my problem is low water pressure as i cant hold a steady pressure. Solid recommended a booster pump which is about $100-150 which is really expensive. Has anyone else had problems with low water pressure and if so what were your solutions? Is there another way around this, im really bummed out and its really discouraging.

I figure out the flush valve btw. It was closed.

Originally Posted by Danzig

Thanks buckeye, if i need one ill check out your store. Didnt even see you were a sponsor lol

No problem Danzig. Everything and I mean everything I know about RO\DI systems pretty much came from Russ when we talked for hours when he helped me design this bad boy about 3 years ago.

You can see the bigger "Liquid Filled Pressure Gauge" near the Booster Pump. It puts out a little over 220 gallons a day of 0 TDS water

[Danzig]

nice setup you have there solid!