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12/25/2011, 02:55 PM | #1 |
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Location: Mid-Michigan
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Canopy/retrofit balast placement
I'm finally wet and starting to cycle. I still offer the challenge to whomever waited more than two years between purchase and startup...bring it on, punks....
I have a 65gal tank (36w x 24d) with a standard/traditional canopy for the sake of cat-proofing the tank as best as possible. I'm about to install two two-bulb retrofit kits for a four-bulb T5 arrangement. My question is about where to locate my ballasts. Can I mount them on the canopy, face-up on the back of the canopy (standard 1/3 back side fixed, front 2/3 hinged), or is it better to put them on a shelf behind the tank and stand? The tank and stand are placed diagonally in a corner of the room. I'd prefer the former for the sake of ease of removing the canopy when necessary. |
12/25/2011, 03:24 PM | #2 |
In Memoriam
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Infinity and Beyond
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Not sure about what type of ballast you are going to be using. Some ballast (Mainly the older ones) get hot. If its one thing I learned the more air around a ballast the better
Mark P.S. I like cats, but I could never eat a whole one! |
12/25/2011, 03:32 PM | #3 |
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Location: Stockton, CA
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As long as the ballast doesn't get hot, then you can mount them anywhere you want. I think I mounted the Icecap 660 ballast I used to have on the side of my canopy. It did come with a heat sink though. The ballast I'm using now for my T5 actincs is mounted on the back of my stand. (Hagen)
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12/25/2011, 04:18 PM | #4 |
Moved On
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Location: Pittsburgh, Pa.
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I built a retro light fixture, 2 250w MH's & 2 96w VHO super actinics, now of course I had to mount both MH ballasts underneath but the VHO one I mounted, heat sink first, right onto the back of the fixture, you should be fine doing so with T-5's in my opinion.
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12/25/2011, 11:33 PM | #5 |
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Location: Schaumburg, IL.
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It's funny you mention "cat proofing" I was worried about this before I actually bought my 180 tank and my QT tank. The QT tank sits on my computer desk. The cat has full access to it. He couldnt care less about the fish. I was shocked!
And he likes water too... He plays in the sink and lets running water fall all over on his head. Nick
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180G - 5 Yellow Tail Blue Damsels, Two Lined Sleeper Goby, Royal Gramma, Flame Angel pair, Yellow Stripe Maroon Clown, Pearlscale Butterfly, Australian Harlequin Tuskfish, Magnificent Foxface, Yellow Current Tank Info: 180G FOWLR Established 10/2010 |
12/26/2011, 07:46 AM | #6 |
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Thanks for the replies. I'm still weighing my options. Naturally, the LFS folks suggest scrapping this all together in favor of LED's. Sorry, not this year.
In so far as the cats, one of them already likes to park her furry arse on the hood. Add some ballast-derived heat and she may become a permanent fixture. This factor may push me toward a no-fish system. I already tending toward hawkfish and blennies and others that tend away from the upper reaches of the water column..... |
12/26/2011, 09:02 AM | #7 |
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Location: Lansing, MI
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i have an open top system, and my cat fell into it the other day while i was gone. dont know which cat it was for sure but it hasnt went in there again yet.
which LFS in MI do you use?
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Briareum sp., Zoanthus sp., Caulastrea furcata, Protopalythoa sp., Capnella sp., Galaxea spp., Anthelia sp., Euphyllia paranchora 6-Line Wrasse Current Tank Info: 40g Reef/20g Sump/Fuge, 80# LR and 120 Watt LED 460nm 14k PH-8.3, NO3-10-15, PO4-0, dKH-7, Ca-500, Mg-1440, SG-1.026, 77.2-78.2 F |
12/26/2011, 09:30 AM | #8 |
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Preuss is the LFS.
The ballast is a Phillips Advance Centium. Outside of heat generation and aesthetics, my chief concern is ease of pulling off the canopy if/when needed. (I can totally see this young'in, very busy cat getting into the tank. Even if only once.). Are there plug-in fasteners for needed disconnect from the power source? Novice electrician here, now venturing into the possible interface with saltwater.... |
12/26/2011, 10:39 AM | #9 |
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Location: Lansing, MI
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i visit preuss alot, LED are nice but its personal preference and the ones they deal with there are not ones i would use, either not premium enough or too expensive for what you get.
mounting the ballast to the wall and having a quick disconnect it easily possible and definitely would make removing the canopy easier. any hardware in the area would likely have what you need and could help you find it. just explain what you want to do and they should set you up nicely
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Briareum sp., Zoanthus sp., Caulastrea furcata, Protopalythoa sp., Capnella sp., Galaxea spp., Anthelia sp., Euphyllia paranchora 6-Line Wrasse Current Tank Info: 40g Reef/20g Sump/Fuge, 80# LR and 120 Watt LED 460nm 14k PH-8.3, NO3-10-15, PO4-0, dKH-7, Ca-500, Mg-1440, SG-1.026, 77.2-78.2 F |
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