QT/Fish Introduction Questions

SKurj · 03/05/2012, 07:24 PM

Ok I am still a long way off adding any fish to my tank..

Questions in regards to QT and introducing new fish.

I understand to QT fish for at least 4 weeks before adding to the DT, and that having a cycled QT would be best. (haven't figured out yet how my QT will be cycled before my DT... but anyways)

My Plan is basically to purchase my first fish, place him in QT for 4 weeks (or more as required) as soon as he moves into DT add next fish to QT. Now my question is, even without seeing anything wrong with fish #1 should the QT be sterilized and re-cycled before adding fish #2 to QT? I understand if #1 is medicated at all i should start QT from scratch for #2 including cycle or am i wrong? ... can frequent water changes replace the need to cycle with such a small bioload? (all of my fish will be 2 in or less in a 15g QT tank).

Next question.. I will be filtering the QT with seapora sponge filters, anyone able to point me towards a cheap seller of replacement sponges? LFS around here only sell the whole thing. And... is your average microwave oven a good method to sterilize a sponge?

daplatapus · 03/05/2012, 07:50 PM

When talking about "cycling" you're talking about getting enough live bacteria on Live Rock to process Ammonia, Nitrite and nitrate. Since you typically don't have any live rock in your QT, it doesn't get cycled. You have to keep on top of any ammonia by water changes etc. If you have a display tank up and running you can have a pre-loaded filter system (pre cycled that has that bacteria in it and growing there already) ready to go that will help control any ammonia but still water changes are required.
From what I understand if the first fish was healthy all thru the QT process and you've moved him over without having to treat for anything, then there really is no need to clean and replace filters. Only if there was something wrong with the first fish would you need to make sure you clean everything really well.

Hope that helps

Sk8r · 03/05/2012, 09:47 PM

There are two philosophies on a qt: 1) bare of everything and runs with a frequently changed filter---as in, every time it stains. 2) a cycled qt with only rock. BUT--if you should turn up with an infested fish, you cannot use that rock or sand again until 12 fishless weeks have passed in that tank, and even then there is a tiny risk.
In either case, having an autotopoff for your qt is a good idea. You want the fish to be stress free, and a stable salt level is helpful in that.

Sk8r · 03/05/2012, 09:48 PM

There are two philosophies on a qt: 1) bare of everything and runs with a frequently changed filter---as in, every time it stains. 2) a cycled qt with only rock or rock and sand. BUT--if you should turn up with an infested fish, you cannot use that rock or sand again until 12 fishless weeks have passed in that tank, and even then there is a tiny risk. And, in order to treat a fish that IS sick, you have to move him to yet one more tank of the (1) type, because treatment (except hypo) will do in the rock and sand, add dead bacteria and dieoff to his water, and that's not good.
In either case, having an autotopoff for your qt is a good idea. You want the fish to be stress free, and a stable salt level is helpful in that.

nlgill13 · 03/05/2012, 10:10 PM

Many medicines/treatments will kill off live rock and sand....IMO a QT is best used for both a quarantine and hospital tank (makes it a lot easier if you have to medicate). In this case you do not need to cycle the QT, just setup: add saltwater, use a heater, use a power filter, and your good.

03/05/2012, 09:47 PM	#3
Sk8r RC Mod Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: Spokane WA Posts: 34,628 Blog Entries: 55	There are two philosophies on a qt: 1) bare of everything and runs with a frequently changed filter---as in, every time it stains. 2) a cycled qt with only rock. BUT--if you should turn up with an infested fish, you cannot use that rock or sand again until 12 fishless weeks have passed in that tank, and even then there is a tiny risk. In either case, having an autotopoff for your qt is a good idea. You want the fish to be stress free, and a stable salt level is helpful in that. __________________ Sk8r Salinity 1.024-6; alkalinity 8.3-9.3 on KH scale; calcium 420; magnesium 1300, temp 78-80, nitrate .2. Ammonia 0. No filters: lps tank. Alk and cal won't rise if mg is low. Current Tank Info: 105g AquaVim wedge, yellow tang, sailfin blenny,royal gramma, ocellaris clown pair, yellow watchman, 100 microceriths, 25 tiny hermits, a 4" conch, 1" nassarius, recovering from 2 year hiatus with daily water change of 10%.

03/05/2012, 09:48 PM	#4
Sk8r RC Mod Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: Spokane WA Posts: 34,628 Blog Entries: 55	There are two philosophies on a qt: 1) bare of everything and runs with a frequently changed filter---as in, every time it stains. 2) a cycled qt with only rock or rock and sand. BUT--if you should turn up with an infested fish, you cannot use that rock or sand again until 12 fishless weeks have passed in that tank, and even then there is a tiny risk. And, in order to treat a fish that IS sick, you have to move him to yet one more tank of the (1) type, because treatment (except hypo) will do in the rock and sand, add dead bacteria and dieoff to his water, and that's not good. In either case, having an autotopoff for your qt is a good idea. You want the fish to be stress free, and a stable salt level is helpful in that. __________________ Sk8r Salinity 1.024-6; alkalinity 8.3-9.3 on KH scale; calcium 420; magnesium 1300, temp 78-80, nitrate .2. Ammonia 0. No filters: lps tank. Alk and cal won't rise if mg is low. Current Tank Info: 105g AquaVim wedge, yellow tang, sailfin blenny,royal gramma, ocellaris clown pair, yellow watchman, 100 microceriths, 25 tiny hermits, a 4" conch, 1" nassarius, recovering from 2 year hiatus with daily water change of 10%.

03/05/2012, 07:24 PM	#1
SKurj Registered Member Join Date: Feb 2012 Location: Oshawa Posts: 539	QT/Fish Introduction Questions Ok I am still a long way off adding any fish to my tank.. Questions in regards to QT and introducing new fish. I understand to QT fish for at least 4 weeks before adding to the DT, and that having a cycled QT would be best. (haven't figured out yet how my QT will be cycled before my DT... but anyways) My Plan is basically to purchase my first fish, place him in QT for 4 weeks (or more as required) as soon as he moves into DT add next fish to QT. Now my question is, even without seeing anything wrong with fish #1 should the QT be sterilized and re-cycled before adding fish #2 to QT? I understand if #1 is medicated at all i should start QT from scratch for #2 including cycle or am i wrong? ... can frequent water changes replace the need to cycle with such a small bioload? (all of my fish will be 2 in or less in a 15g QT tank). Next question.. I will be filtering the QT with seapora sponge filters, anyone able to point me towards a cheap seller of replacement sponges? LFS around here only sell the whole thing. And... is your average microwave oven a good method to sterilize a sponge? __________________ 40g Long since Mar 2012, 20lbs marco rocks, 25lb live rock, Aquamaxx HoB-1, sumpless, CPR Fuge, 4 tube T5HO, Mixed reef, softies and LPS Current Tank Info: 40g Long sumpless

03/05/2012, 07:50 PM	#2
daplatapus Registered Member Join Date: Jun 2011 Location: Port Alberni, B.C., Canada Posts: 895	When talking about "cycling" you're talking about getting enough live bacteria on Live Rock to process Ammonia, Nitrite and nitrate. Since you typically don't have any live rock in your QT, it doesn't get cycled. You have to keep on top of any ammonia by water changes etc. If you have a display tank up and running you can have a pre-loaded filter system (pre cycled that has that bacteria in it and growing there already) ready to go that will help control any ammonia but still water changes are required. From what I understand if the first fish was healthy all thru the QT process and you've moved him over without having to treat for anything, then there really is no need to clean and replace filters. Only if there was something wrong with the first fish would you need to make sure you clean everything really well. Hope that helps __________________ 130 lbs Tonga LR, GFO and Carbon reactors, Tunze ozmolator ATO, 2- 20 gal QT tanks, Current Tank Info: 80 gal display 48L X 24H X16D, 2 MP-40's, Odyssea 2-250W MH 4-HO T-5 Actinic's, 80 lbs Aragonite sand, 4 - 150W titanium heaters, Reeflo Baracuda return pump, 150gal sump, Filter Guys Reef Miser 6 stage + 1 Dual RO/DI, LifeReef 48" Skimmer

03/05/2012, 10:10 PM	#5
nlgill13 Registered Member Join Date: Jul 2011 Location: Boulder,CO Posts: 1,291	Many medicines/treatments will kill off live rock and sand....IMO a QT is best used for both a quarantine and hospital tank (makes it a lot easier if you have to medicate). In this case you do not need to cycle the QT, just setup: add saltwater, use a heater, use a power filter, and your good.