Opinion on RODI unit....

[Reef1589]

So, im going to be adding to my fish tank collection, and i think its time i get a unit, instead of running to the store with 6 5 gallon jugs anymore..

ive been looking at RO units and want some feedback / opinions on what route i should go with..

im thinking 75GPD.. because ill have about 200-300 total gallons running in my house..

here's the three im looking at though

http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/store/...us-system.html

or

http://www.drsfostersmith.com/produc...m?pcatid=21421

or

http://www.airwaterice.com/product/1...TDS-Meter.html



any input/opinions? or another decent RODI unit you recommend?

FYI.. i have really...reallly....REALLLY bad well water.. so im aware ima be changing filters more often then most people.. but idk if they make super RODI units for people with water like me? haha

[tkeracer619]

How is your water bad?

I would go with the BRS unit. I have a Typhoon, it has been a good unit but its more expensive for essentially the same thing.

[DHyslop]

+1 for the BRS Plus. A great unit, but don't forget to order a float valve, too.

[Darth Vedder]

I am very happy with the Vertex Puratek Deluxe 100 GPD unit

It realistically does around 80-90 per day unless u have water at 77 degrees. It has built in booster pump, automatically back flushes the membrane, and has a built in TDS digital display

Plug and play and have loved it

[Reef1589]

Originally Posted by tkeracer619

How is your water bad?

I would go with the BRS unit. I have a Typhoon, it has been a good unit but its more expensive for essentially the same thing.

its well water.. what you mean how is it bad? im pretty sure our whole well system probably should be re-done, cleaned out and gone through.. cause its way to rusty to be normal. but for now we just keep up with salt in the softner and it atleast makes it clear but doesnt make it taste any better.

[tkeracer619]

Get a storage tank for your RO and a sink faucet. Drink RO water from now on. Bottled out of a tap. Can't beat it.

Rusty water isn't so bad, the pre-fliter will get it out. A softener should make the RO work better IIRC.

[Buckeye Hydro]

Originally Posted by Reef1589

its well water.. what you mean how is it bad? im pretty sure our whole well system probably should be re-done, cleaned out and gone through.. cause its way to rusty to be normal. but for now we just keep up with salt in the softner and it atleast makes it clear but doesnt make it taste any better.

So if you have well water, that means your tap water isn't chlorinated. So think long and hard about the idea of buying any RO or RODI system with two carbon stages...

You don't need two carbon stages.



Russ

[CLeadfootS]

BRS all the way! I love mine. Comes with All kinds of things to hook it up, tds meter, and pressure gauge. Plus its from bulk reef supply and their customer service is unbeatable! It probably sounds like I work for them but I assure you I don't. I don't even know why you haven't ordered it up yet! Go call them now! Hehe

[Hamsternuts]

I know a lot of people that use well water end up getting a boost pump.

I think it's something about the pressure going up and down when the well pump turns on/off and the storage tank empties.

Just a thought you might want to consider if you hadn't planned on adding that in to the cost of the RO/DI system. I believe an RO system needs a minimum of 35psi to work at all.

[Buckeye Hydro]

If you have anything less than 40 psi you'll likely be unhappy with your system's performance. Your membrane's rejection rate will be low, your DI life will be shortened, and you'll get more waste water than you should.

Russ

[yachtdr22]

Originally Posted by Reef1589

So, im going to be adding to my fish tank collection, and i think its time i get a unit, instead of running to the store with 6 5 gallon jugs anymore..

ive been looking at RO units and want some feedback / opinions on what route i should go with..

im thinking 75GPD.. because ill have about 200-300 total gallons running in my house..

here's the three im looking at though

http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/store/...us-system.html

or

http://www.drsfostersmith.com/produc...m?pcatid=21421

or

http://www.airwaterice.com/product/1...TDS-Meter.html



any input/opinions? or another decent RODI unit you recommend?

FYI.. i have really...reallly....REALLLY bad well water.. so im aware ima be changing filters more often then most people.. but idk if they make super RODI units for people with water like me? haha

I just got the BRS 6stage Deluxe and it is awesome... combined it with the 150GPD upgrade kit and im making water fast!!!

[Buckeye Hydro]

Regarding adding a second membrane plumbed in series:
First - remember that what folks call "waste water" really would be better thought of as "flush water" in that this water serves the important purpose of internally flushing the surface of the semipermeable membrane to keep the membrane from fouling/scaling.

When you configure a system with two membranes in series (the waste from the first membrane going to the "in" port on the second membrane), for this discussion let's say it's two 75 gpd membranes, the system behaves like you have a single long (75 gpd x 2) 150 gpd membrane.

Now - if you use a proper flow restrictor, that is, one for a 150 gpd membrane, you'll have about a 4:1 waste to product ratio. Sounds familiar, right?

If however you don't change the flow restrictor - meaning you keep using the same restrictor you were using when you just had one 75 gpd membrane, then you'll see a waste to product ratio much lower than 4:1. But remember that the recommendation for a ~4:1 ratio comes from the membrane manufacturer. They are telling you that you need about a 4:1 ratio to keep the membrane flushed and keep the membrane from fouling or building up scale. Run the system with a lower ratio and you will foul/scale the membrane(s) quicker than would have otherwise been the case.

Instead of adding a second membrane to lower that ratio, you could have just changed out your flow restrictor ($4) instead. A much less expensive approach to get you to the same endpoint in terms of saving on waste water.

Now, to confuse things just a bit. Filmtec specs call for the 4 to 1 ratio on the basis of assumptions about the water that will be supplied to the membrane. If you have very soft water you MAY be able to get a decent service life from the membrane running at a ratio lower than 4 to 1 (e.g., 3 to 1). Remember that the waste water from the first membrane is about 25% harder than your tap water.

Bottom line: If what you are after is reduced waste water, experiment with a different flow restrictor for $4 instead of messing around with a second membrane plumbed in series.

As a side note, you can also lower the ratio by increasing the pressure delivered to the membrane (with a booster pump), because flow restrictors are sized assuming you are providing factory spec conditions (50 psi and 77 degrees for Filmtec membranes). Increase the pressure and you'll drive more water through the membrane and viola - less waste water. But as I mentioned above, if you do this (just like over-restricting a membrane) - the lower the waste to product ratio, the shorter the lifespan on the membrane.

Makes sense?

Russ