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#1 |
Registered Member.
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Phoenix
Posts: 779
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multiple quarantine?
Does anyone see a problem with quarantining a Kole tang, a diamond goby and copper band butterfly at the same time?... I have a 26 gal bow front as a qt? I will be propylactively be treatint with copper... An making sure the cbb is eating before adding to dt? Any thoughts? I plan to qt for 3-4 weeks with copper treatment
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#2 |
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Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Phoenix
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No takers in this one? Bump for thoughts.
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#3 |
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Posts: 281
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It depends how large the fish are. If the tang & copperband are very small, say 2-3 inches or less, it may be okay for the short term QT. However, you'll have to keep a close eye on them for signs of stress or aggression and make sure they have some hiding spots.
If they are much larger than that I wouldn't risk it. Just my 2c. |
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#4 |
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Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Cape Coral, FL
Posts: 10,431
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My purple tang and mueller's butterfly hate eachother. I couldn't keep them together in a 180g tank! The purple tang is currently living in my frag tank!
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#5 |
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Location: Westminster, CO
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Copperband needs to be solo. They are to finicky and fragile to be with others during qt. If you don't get lucky and get one that is already eating (i wouldn't buy one I don't see eat) then odds are it will be to shy to eat when other fish are flying around snagging the food.
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Hobby Experience: 9200ish gallons, 26 skimmers, and a handful of Kent Scrapers. Current Tank: Vortech Powered 600G SPS Tank w/ 100gal frag tank & 100g Sump. RK2-RK10 Skimmer. ReefAngel. Radium 20k. |
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#6 |
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Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 55
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I wouldn't QT more than one fish unless the two of them help each other de-stress.
Part of the reason to QT is to allow the fish to get used to captivity in a stress-free environment; having another fish in such a small area just adds more unnecessary stress. The only time I would add more than one fish in the QT is if there is some sort of a symbiotic relationship -- for example, we have our powder brown tang in the QT tank with the neon goby, because the neon goby helps the tang stay clean of pests and parasites ![]() http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5lon6QNnfpI |
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#7 | |
Team RC member
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Quote:
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#8 |
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Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Minnesota
Posts: 2,435
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The only time I QT multiple fish is when they need to be added together (with the exception of this first round). Like with a pair of fairy wrasses. QT females separate you run a risk of it going male before you even get it with your male fairy wrasse. Anthias are another example of where you want the group together so you don't have multiple males (unless your tank is very large).
Sensitive fish like the CBB should be QTd alone so they are able to eat without competition. You want them to adjust without the hassle of other fish. |
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#9 |
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Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Longmont, CO
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I currently have a diamond goby and a CBB in my QT tank. They've only been in there for 3 days. The goby just started eating yesterday (PE mysis), but I've only seen the CBB pick at the large live rock piece that I added to the QT. I haven't seen it eat any frozen food yet. I'm thinking about ordering some live blackworms to help it along. I threw in a little neck clam yesterday, but haven't checked to see if it's eaten.
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#10 |
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Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Phoenix
Posts: 779
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Wow... good response this time around.... Okay, so I would probably do the Diamond Goby or the Kole Tang 1st. If that is advisable. I understand the intracacies of dealing with the CBB and probably would benifit in haveing the DT more established before introdicing it. So the Dimond Goby is a sand sifter, would not hvaing any substrate be a problem for this fish. I have read threads where people would take a couple cups out of the DT and place it in a dish for the Goby... Obviously the pod population of this small amount of sand wqould be depleted quickly, so what types of food should I be feeding to "train" with? And obviosly if I am pretreating with copper the pods will not survive and the sand is junk afterwards.
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#11 |
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Join Date: Apr 2011
Posts: 101
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Why treat copper if you don't have to. I would do hyposalinity.
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#12 | |
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Quote:
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#13 |
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Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Spokane, WA
Posts: 416
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Just an FYI, hypo is 1.008-1.009.
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#14 |
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#15 | |
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Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Minnesota
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Quote:
There are varying ways of proactively treating fish for ick. The good thing about copper is that it will treat ick and velvet, both of which are deadly. Hypo can also be difficult for some to do. Copper is a bit easier, especially Cupramine, to use. |
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