Questions As I Begin

[Danroth]

Hello, everyone ...

So, I've been wanting a reef aquarium for a good 5+ years, now, and am finally getting close to the position where I can do this - space to put one, financially, etc...

Getting back into the forums here, and getting together more information (as I apparently lost what I previously had).

I've decided to go with MH for lighting, simply because in all the pictures I've looked at, including live tanks I've seen, MH simply seem to me to provide the best aesthetics.

I'm considering building my own stand, and it has a 'raised'/enclosed hood. I guess from having freshwater fish, and also being a cat owner, I am slightly nervous/hesitant to have an 'open' tank.

Would the MH be 'too hot' if I set it up with a raised hood?

Also, would fans 'be enough' to cool, along with a sump? I've read that a sump can help cool the water down by a degree or two.

Finally, obviously just by the name I'm aware of what a Chiller does, but how do you know if you're going to need one, or not?

I don't mind spending what I need to spend, but I want to do it right the first time, and make sure I don't have to tinker with it for awhile.

Thanks for all the info, in advance.

[Waddleboy]

Metal halides do get hot and are known to generate the most heat. In a properly ventilated enclosed hood, you can keep them cooler but never keep all the heat away. Having fans up top and blowing across the water to provide evaporation will help. As for the chiller, its needed if your temperature gets to high... obviously. That being said you will know if you need one once you have everything running. If your water temp is 90 degrees well then you need one. If you can maintain it between 78-82 well then you dont need one. Also you said:

Originally Posted by Danroth

I don't mind spending what I need to spend, but I want to do it right the first time, and make sure I don't have to tinker with it for awhile.

I have learned in this hobby from the short time i have been in it, no matter how much planning or experience or pre planning there is always some tinkering that must be done to be successful.

[ajcanale]

If you can afford a high quality LED fixtures, such as Maxspect Mazarra or Ecotech Radion. I'd advise to go that route. They yield similar, if not the same growth results, and are every bit as aesthetically pleasing. Plus, run much much cooler, take up less space, use less energy, and offer way more controlability. You will also bypass much of the concern that you posted regarding temperature. Just my 2 cents.

There is also a lot of variability that goes into the heat factor of the build you are planning. Such as: The consistency and average temperature of the room that the tank will be in, as well as overall air circulation in that room. How many additional heat sources will be in the tank? (pumps & powerheads). Will you be using some type of temperature controller? (regulates power to heater or fans/chiller)

All of these factors come into play in regards to the need of a chiller. In the case that you do end up going the MH route with an enclosed hood, you will definitely want to route adequate ventilation in the hood in the form of computer fans... inlet and exhaust.

[Danroth]

I looked at some of the LED setups, and saw some posts where people were concerned about some coral dying under LEDs, and all the pictures I've seen were really blue. I couldn't find a whole lot of information here on LED lighting beyond a few specs and the type of LEDs were using, few pics and not enough info for me. I did a small search on the internet after checking here, and really couldn't find much info on them other than prices.

I understand that LEDs are pretty new to the hobby still (the last time I researched this they weren't even around or discussed -- unfortunately I lost all my prior notes in a move so trying to remember and gather that info back up again), and initially more expensive, but if they're viable and can match what I've seen from 14K-20K MHs, then I would prefer to go that route. Also something I'd wondered; people stating that you need the 14K-20K MH's to reach 24" depths for your tank & critters - are there any issues with light getting to the deeper depths with LEDs? Sorry, I just see a lot of info/discussion on T5's vs. MH's because they've both been around awhile. There's little information that I can seem to dredge up on LEDs right now.

Another question I had: I understand that a lot of equipment is based off preference, and there is no single one 'right' way, or 'best' brand of product to do anything. Still, considering the investment required I've read various articles about Protein Skimmers, and seen them range anywhere between $100-$600.

I'm planning on setting up a 90 gallon. Would 250g rated Protein Skimmer be sufficient for that, plus my sump (not sure on sump size yet, maybe 50g?) or would I need to go higher? I also understand that Octopus & LifeReef are two popular brands. Again, I don't mind spending the money -- I'd rather buy a model I'm going to be satisfied with, but are there any other equally reputable brands of Skimmers that might yield similar results/productivity/reliability as these brands?

Again, thanks in advance.

[Lorenz725]

I also went with MH because I do not like the way LED's look and I still dont think they are proven yet. I have a 150 gallon with 3 250 W MH in a closed hood. I just have 2 computer fans that come on if the temp in the tank gets above 80F. The fans have yet to come on though I did not have this tank set up last summer. I also keep my house temp at a 70F. The thing about this hobby is most everyone thinks they have the best or know what the best is. You can get some good ideas but in the end you will have to decided what equipment you will want.

[Reefmedic79]

To Reef Central

LED's can be set-up to run with the look of 14K, the biggest problem with them killing corals are they can actually be more intense than MH and they stress out newly added corals. There are quite a few posts in the DIY forum on LED's, remember that if you do end up needing a chiller, a chiller will contribute to ambient heat in the room the tank is in unless you get it plumbed into another room.

As for skimmers Reef Octopus is a good quality brand, one rated at 250gal. would be over doing it IMO, one rated around 100gal. would be sufficient, but up to 150 would would be ok as well.

Your tank may be 90g but once rock and sand are added you'll lose some of that volume and a 50 gallon sump will only have about 20-30 gals once it's up and running.

[ajcanale]

Not only can they match 14k-20k halides, but specifically, you can program Radions to change spectrum throughout the day. For example, my light phase starts with 14k in the morning, 10k at noon, and 20k in the afternoon, fading into a full royal blue spectrum for dusk/night phase. Halides cannot touch that.

The latest technology of LED's have shown to yield sufficient PAR values at deeper depths. I've seen some PAR analysis and comparison of the newer LED's but don't remember exactly where I read it. I transitioned from 20k 250w metal halides paired with royal blue LED's to my two Radion LED fixtures, and have been more than satisfied.

And what you said about there being no single "right" way, is absolutely true.
a 250g rated skimmer would be prove to be more than enough for even a very high bioload. I run a skimmer rated for 100g-180g and have a medium bioload. I would highly recommend cone skimmers, specifically SWC or Reef Octopus. From what I have read and experienced SWC really provides the best bang for the buck.