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08/07/2012, 08:47 PM
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#1 |
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Registered Member
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Spokane, Wa
Posts: 116
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QT Question....
How often should I change the water in the QT? I have to clown fish in there and I used 50% DT water and 50% new saltwater and the tank is a 10g tank with a HOB Penguin 350
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Air Traffic Control aint easy and who said the saltwater hobby was? For every problem in life there is a solution. Current Tank Info: 75G and 20G Sump/Fuge with Aquac 120 skimmer (Mag 5), LR,LS and chaeto in the Fuge, Mag 9.5 Return Pump, 100Lbs of rock in DT and 60 Lbs of LS. |
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08/07/2012, 08:51 PM
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#2 |
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Registered Member
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Spokane, Wa
Posts: 116
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Water Parameters are as fallow: (just did them with ATI Saltwater Master Test Kit)
PH: 8.0 Ammonia: 0.25 Nitrite: 0 Nitrate: 5 I'm not using any medicine or anything but I do have Prime that I bought last weekend but have never used it... Please I need advice and I also have a batch of fresh new saltwater just in case I need to make a WC right now...
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Air Traffic Control aint easy and who said the saltwater hobby was? For every problem in life there is a solution. Current Tank Info: 75G and 20G Sump/Fuge with Aquac 120 skimmer (Mag 5), LR,LS and chaeto in the Fuge, Mag 9.5 Return Pump, 100Lbs of rock in DT and 60 Lbs of LS. |
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08/07/2012, 08:53 PM
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#3 |
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Registered Member
Join Date: Jul 2011
Posts: 758
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Whenever you detect ammonia, change the water. This may be once a day for a few weeks if it is not cycled. I use a seachem ammonia alert badge. If you have a sponge from the DT, put that in the QT to insta cycle the tank.
Nitrates and nitrites do not matter in QT unless keeping corals. In my QT's that have been cycled, I'll do a 20% WC maybe twice during the 8-10 week QT regimen. Of course, they have been long cycled.
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Duncan |
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08/07/2012, 09:00 PM
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#4 | |
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Registered Member
Join Date: Jul 2011
Posts: 758
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Quote:
For a quick reference, the seachem ammonia alert badge I have says 0 ammonia = safe 0.05 ammonia = alert 0.2 ammonia = Alarm 0.5 ammonia = Toxic
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Duncan |
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08/07/2012, 09:07 PM
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#5 |
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Registered Member
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Spokane, Wa
Posts: 116
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ok I guess I will do the WC... If i decide to use the prime after the WC when can I use copper?? I havent detected any ich but I will probably treat anyways to be sure...
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Air Traffic Control aint easy and who said the saltwater hobby was? For every problem in life there is a solution. Current Tank Info: 75G and 20G Sump/Fuge with Aquac 120 skimmer (Mag 5), LR,LS and chaeto in the Fuge, Mag 9.5 Return Pump, 100Lbs of rock in DT and 60 Lbs of LS. |
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08/07/2012, 09:26 PM
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#6 |
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Registered Member
Join Date: Jul 2011
Posts: 758
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Using Prime is a great idea to help with the ammonia during the cycle in a QT. With the tank not being cycled and using Prime, I personally wouldn't chance it with copper at all and would opt to using hypo in a non cycled tank or tank transfer (you don't need a cycled tank with this as you do a 100% WC every 3 days in the AM. I have even heard of people using 5 gallon buckets with a bubbler and heater with this method.).
FWIW, ich will take a long time to kill the fish, but ammonia or copper + Prime can kill them in a day. If you do choose hypo, make sure you have a calibrated refractometer and keep the salinity at 1.008-1.009 and never let it go above 1.010, otherwise the treatment is useless. You should use hypo for 4 weeks and slowly lower the salinity over the course a few days (since you do not see any signs of ich, I would slowly lower it over a week or so). When you are done with hypo after 4 weeks, slowly raise it back up over the course of another week and make sure to keep the water well oxygenated/circulated. A thorough QT regiment is 6-10 weeks.
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Duncan |
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08/07/2012, 09:26 PM
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#7 |
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Registered Member
Join Date: Jul 2011
Posts: 758
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double post...
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Duncan |
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