Adding heaters to sump

[mangelo]

I have an acrylic 165gal and want to move the heaters to the sump. I have a wet / dry with 3 compartments. The intake is right next to the skimmer which holds the most water. The water rises up to the overflow of the sump and onto a grate that rains down on Bio-Bail. It then passes over some filter padding and then to the section leading to the return.

I am doubting that I have the correct set up to place the heaters in the sump because the other compartments don't have enough water volume and the sump compartment is probably < 10 gallons.

Would I still be able to use such an area with a small volume?

[Allmost]

sure, the volume doesnt really matter, as the water is passing and not sitting there. over 175 gallons of water pass the last chamber of your sump at least once an hour

just make sure its submersed in water at all times, and use a controller ! the temp controller on ALL heaters are bad and will fail.

[mangelo]

What is a controller? Is this a separate unit to help regulate the temperature? Oh, does it matter which chamber I put the heaters in or can / should I split them up?

[Allmost]

Originally Posted by mangelo

What is a controller? Is this a separate unit to help regulate the temperature? Oh, does it matter which chamber I put the heaters in or can / should I split them up?

as long as its under water at all times, dont want it to come out of water as it would shatter.

a temp controller is just a temp sensor and it allows you to plug the heater to the controller. so the controller tells the heater when to turn on and off. now you can also set the temp of the heater itself to say 81, and controller at 80, so there is no possible way that u can raise temp over 81, if either is stuck on.

you can get a RKL fro 99 bucks, has temp controller, and 3 other outputs you can use to control lights or whatever else u like. there are stand alone temp. controllers out thre as well.

[mangelo]

Thanks! This is great info!

[Landsailor]

Originally Posted by Allmost

just make sure its submersed in water at all times, and use a controller ! the temp controller on ALL heaters are bad and will fail.

I haven't heard of the computerized controllers in the Fluval E heaters failing. It's not mechanical, so there are no contacts to weld shut. Plus, the red/green/blue LCD backlight makes it very easy to see the tank's status from across the room.

If the OP wants to go with a controller, get the Apex Jr. instead of the RKL. Reason: Ethernet connectivity. A controller that can only let you know of a problem when you're in the house dramatically defeats one of the big reasons for having one. (Yes, you can add the Net module to the Reefkeeper Lite, but that's another $120.)

[mangelo]

So, if I set the temp of the heater in the sump for 76-78 the I can expect that in the DT? I don't have to set it slightly higher to make up for the smaller volume?

Just being cautious.

[jong11]

Set it for 78* and it will be 78* throughout the system.

[Whyley]

Doesn't matter where you put your heater with respect to mechanics. I cant speak to biology or the rest. Put in the cleanest part of your sump. You want it in the cleanest part of your sump because anything that latches onto it, weather it be algae, salt creep you name it will create hot spots. This is how you kill heaters. Providing it has enough load (deep enough in the water to cover the heating elements) It will be fine. Don't submerge the pretty end with the temp dial under the water. If you want to get silly. Set your heater a couple degrees over what you want to regulate your tank at. Understand that the setpoint on that dial is accurate to no where near where you want it. If you don't have a reliable reef controller buy a johnson A419 control and let it handle the accurate lifting.

http://cgproducts.johnsoncontrols.co...PDF/125188.PDF

Don't pay more than $60 for it. Look up Wolesley, Frontier, Fortress or eastern. One must be close to you. Any refrigeration wholesaler will do. This control was designed for and is primarily used in the HVAC/R trade. These are wholesales to trades only. So if you cant find an excuse to be in there your going to need a tradesman.

All the best,
Dumb Tradesman

[OKDOHK]

I agree that heaters internal temp are not reliable. Main reason i bought a controller. I would also make a suggestion that has not been mentioned. Do not place the heaters in the same compartment.

[avaross09]

I agree with OKDOHK, there should be a separate compartment for heater, and keep it into the clean sump.

[texasrainman]

I've got my 2 300w heaters in my overflows. One in each. It takes roughly 10-15minutes to raise the water 1 degree. In my tank

[Allmost]

Originally Posted by Landsailor

I haven't heard of the computerized controllers in the Fluval E heaters failing. It's not mechanical, so there are no contacts to weld shut. Plus, the red/green/blue LCD backlight makes it very easy to see the tank's status from across the room.

If the OP wants to go with a controller, get the Apex Jr. instead of the RKL. Reason: Ethernet connectivity. A controller that can only let you know of a problem when you're in the house dramatically defeats one of the big reasons for having one. (Yes, you can add the Net module to the Reefkeeper Lite, but that's another $120.)

I would only use Eheim stealth as an aquarium heater now on. nothing else lol

PS. a thermometer under water, will fail, if it hasnt yet, it will eventually if you catch it fast when it fails, ure safe, but if ut fails while ure away ... .then you can come back to a hot soup !

[moondoggy4]

Make sure the heater is not sitting on another wire or on the bottom of the sump ie acyrlic.