Tank overflow question

Steveb · 09/12/2012, 01:15 PM

My approx. 400 gallon tank has two trapezoid shaped overflow boxes. Each box has 1.5" drain and 2 - .75" returns.

Currently the tank is configured with Maggie Mufflers on the drains. The drain pipe itself at the top is quiet. Have not heard any air, burping or other noises. Down on the bottom that is another story. I know all of this is well documented.

My dilemma and questions.

1 - should I try futzing around with sump to quiet it? Put 3" slotted pipe or something like that to allow air to escape, quiet down the bubbles and obviously cut down on salt creep?

2 - since the drains are separate what kind of complexity is going to be involved in trying to run a true siphon from each. Should I join the pipes with one gate valve (I don't think so) or keep them separate all the way the sump.

3 - If I do #2 above where do I put the gate valves? under the tank or at the sump?

4 - given that nothing larger than .25" has a hope of getting to the drain do I really need to worry about an emergency overflow? If so would you mind providing a rationale/case please?

5 - If an emergency drain is needed on each side..
do I - use one of the .75" overflows on each side?
or - try to drill another hole in the overflow area (from under neath the tank) for a .75" bulkhead?

Not sure if it matters but I'm currently using 2 - 1262 Eheims. One pump to each of the two returns on each side. Pumps are currently valved back to about 70% full flow (i.e. the ball valve handles are turned about 30% from full open - so this might not truly be 70%).

I use 1" valves and plumbing all the way to nearly the end. The other side of the 1" union in this picture has a 1" to .75" reducer that ties to a piece of .75" pipe going into the .75" bulkhead under neath.

Here's a pic....

and here it is running...

Thanks in advance!

dwolson2 · 09/12/2012, 01:34 PM

If you create siphons, it doesn't matter where you put the gate valves. You could run a herbie style, or modify your boxes like I did and run a bean animal design(http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/sh....php?t=2212298)

Steveb · 09/12/2012, 03:28 PM

That's a nice fix. My tank is acrylic and I would be a little leery about applying solvent to try and add a cross piece. Not to mention that I don't think I would ever be able to get the angles right to mate up with the two trapezoids.

dwolson2 · 09/12/2012, 07:52 PM

I think you could do it, I wasn't sure I would be able to, but it was a lot easier then I thought.

09/12/2012, 01:15 PM	#1
Steveb Registered Member Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: TX Posts: 1,090	Tank overflow question My approx. 400 gallon tank has two trapezoid shaped overflow boxes. Each box has 1.5" drain and 2 - .75" returns. Currently the tank is configured with Maggie Mufflers on the drains. The drain pipe itself at the top is quiet. Have not heard any air, burping or other noises. Down on the bottom that is another story. I know all of this is well documented. My dilemma and questions. 1 - should I try futzing around with sump to quiet it? Put 3" slotted pipe or something like that to allow air to escape, quiet down the bubbles and obviously cut down on salt creep? 2 - since the drains are separate what kind of complexity is going to be involved in trying to run a true siphon from each. Should I join the pipes with one gate valve (I don't think so) or keep them separate all the way the sump. 3 - If I do #2 above where do I put the gate valves? under the tank or at the sump? 4 - given that nothing larger than .25" has a hope of getting to the drain do I really need to worry about an emergency overflow? If so would you mind providing a rationale/case please? 5 - If an emergency drain is needed on each side.. do I - use one of the .75" overflows on each side? or - try to drill another hole in the overflow area (from under neath the tank) for a .75" bulkhead? Not sure if it matters but I'm currently using 2 - 1262 Eheims. One pump to each of the two returns on each side. Pumps are currently valved back to about 70% full flow (i.e. the ball valve handles are turned about 30% from full open - so this might not truly be 70%). I use 1" valves and plumbing all the way to nearly the end. The other side of the 1" union in this picture has a 1" to .75" reducer that ties to a piece of .75" pipe going into the .75" bulkhead under neath. Here's a pic.... and here it is running... Thanks in advance! __________________ Steve My Tanks 50x30 ABS Tub & a 48x24 frag tank at the moment Steve's Reef 265 Build In Progress Last edited by Steveb; 09/12/2012 at 02:03 PM. Reason: added a couple of more pics

09/12/2012, 03:28 PM	#3
Steveb Registered Member Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: TX Posts: 1,090	That's a nice fix. My tank is acrylic and I would be a little leery about applying solvent to try and add a cross piece. Not to mention that I don't think I would ever be able to get the angles right to mate up with the two trapezoids. __________________ Steve My Tanks 50x30 ABS Tub & a 48x24 frag tank at the moment Steve's Reef 265 Build In Progress

09/12/2012, 07:52 PM	#4
dwolson2 Registered Member Join Date: Feb 2011 Location: Rockledge Fl Posts: 1,348	I think you could do it, I wasn't sure I would be able to, but it was a lot easier then I thought. __________________ 220 w/75 sump. 2 Kessil AP700s, 2- MP60, 2- MP40, 1-MP10(in sump/frag tank), Waveline DC 10000, Reef Octopus elite INT220, Radion G1(over sump/frag tank), Apex Wifi with a few extras Current Tank Info: 220 in progress

09/12/2012, 01:34 PM	#2
dwolson2 Registered Member Join Date: Feb 2011 Location: Rockledge Fl Posts: 1,348	If you create siphons, it doesn't matter where you put the gate valves. You could run a herbie style, or modify your boxes like I did and run a bean animal design(http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/sh....php?t=2212298) __________________ 220 w/75 sump. 2 Kessil AP700s, 2- MP60, 2- MP40, 1-MP10(in sump/frag tank), Waveline DC 10000, Reef Octopus elite INT220, Radion G1(over sump/frag tank), Apex Wifi with a few extras Current Tank Info: 220 in progress