adding coral frag with ich on purpose! - Page 2

zeebies · 11/29/2012, 09:41 AM

Hmmm, 6 weeks, 8 weeks, 12 weeks... No weeks

I have LOTS of patience so I guess it will be (roll the dice) 10 weeks. I hope this isn't too much overkill.

Sponger0, yes the life cycle of ich is interesting. Every time I reread the info I learn something. Especially about the resistant strains lurking about now.

zeebies · 11/29/2012, 09:51 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Reefahholic

Speaking of QTing corals for reasons other than ICH..I dipped the new recent corals I bought in Coral RX, and wow...the amount of crap that came off a couple of frags was unbelievable. Brittle star, fire worms, bristle worms, tiny crap that was twitching in the solution. Some of these animals were nearly microscopic and I never saw the bigger ones either until I dipped and they flew off the frags like they were in fire. I'm telling you, if you don't dip your corals, you are messing up big time.

Thanks for the graphic reminder, Reef.

I'm preparing for 2 new corals today.

discocarp · 11/29/2012, 09:56 AM

I think you'll be good with 10 weeks. Just remember its 10 weeks from the last addition. The clock restarts everytime you add something new.

As for tank transfer, its quicker but I'll still QT them after the transfer. I like to also treat with prazipro and get some observation time in before they get added to the DT. So the total time won't be that much less, but some.

Cloudburst2000 · 11/29/2012, 10:53 AM

Yes, it is definitely possible to introduce ich via a coral frag, rock, any animal with hard shell (snails, etc) because ich cysts can live on any hard substrate. My brother-in-law found this out the hard way. He had an aquarium that was running well and had not had any additions/changes in over a year. Then he bought a bubble coral frag at the LFS and added it to his tank. In a matter of days, the fish started to show signs of ich. When he told me what was happening, I was like "you dummy, that LFS is known for having ich in their tank!" He had no clue that ich could be transferred tank to tank by means other then fish. He is now better educated...the hard way.

zeebies · 11/29/2012, 01:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by discocarp

As for tank transfer, its quicker but I'll still QT them after the transfer. I like to also treat with prazipro and get some observation time in before they get added to the DT. So the total time won't be that much less, but some.

This is just about what I do with fish. Get fish. Let them rest and feed while I observe for a week. Do TT for about 2 weeks. Rest for a week. 2 rounds of PraziPro. QT for 2-4 weeks more. Then add to DT.

I'll be doing 10 weeks QT for coral now.

Thanks everyone for your input. Really helpful to run this by you folks.

danil · 11/29/2012, 03:39 PM

I've seen one post where it was explained why full 8 weeks quarantine for inverts/coral is not needed. Can't find it.. the idea behind it - that only one type of parasite (from ich full life cycle) can be present on them and this type can survive without host for only three days hence you need to quarantine for one week only.

zeebies · 11/29/2012, 04:38 PM

Danil, please post that info if you find it. More stuff to consider...

danil · 11/29/2012, 06:10 PM

Check this thread http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/sh...cuc+quarantine
It's not the original but it has mentioned Snorvich (RC Ich expert) and his 3 days quarantine theory.

zeebies · 11/29/2012, 06:36 PM

Thanks. Wow, 3 day QT for corals/inverts is now in the running. Big difference from 10 weeks. Wondering about the theory on that one.

Jeff000 · 11/29/2012, 06:42 PM

Why does everyone worry so much about ich? Keep your system and fish healthy and you won't have any issues.

I know for a fact that I have ich in my tank, I only ever see it when I add a new fish, and only for a few days because my purple tang gets angry and stressed so I can see ich for a few days. But like now, I can't see any signs of ich.

68551 · 11/30/2012, 08:37 PM

a couple years ago I had a bout of ich with an old tank I had....I had a beautiful purple tang in the tank & he got it from the strees of the move ( I bought the tank from a client of mine & moved every drop of water & stuff in the tank & reset it up in 1 day & it cleared enough to add the fish back the next morning)....Well the tang got ich really bad & I thought I would loose him, he was starting to swim at the top of the tank & gasp for oxygen spending all of t=his time in g=front of the returns....I found a product called "stop parasites" from chem marin & followed directions to a tee...when ph dropped I added more alk....It took 10 days of twice daily treatments (instead of the 5 days in the instructions) & the owner called & checked up with me every day...It was very comforting to have my noob hand held throughout this process....The tang pulled through great and the ich never returned!!!

ReefUrchin · 11/30/2012, 09:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ACBlinky

copper treatment for 6 weeks while the tank sits fallow.

If you know the cycle of ich, why would you torture your fish? I do 2-3 days on as soon as I get the fish, tank transfer for 2 days to fresh salt water, tank transfer for 3 days more with copper, tank transfer to fresh saltwater for 2 days and one more 3 day round with copper. Life cycle on the fish is around 7 days before they all shed off.

Quote:

Originally Posted by discocarp

I'm unconvinced of hypo-resistant strains of ich, but who knows.

I do, 12 weeks of 100+gallons at .007/8 with a 10 gallon area sump that had float switches in it so the whole tank would not drop more than a halg gallon of fresh before being replenished? Your not gonna change salinity of 99 gallons with one gallon of water. 12+ weeks and no dice.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Reefahholic

I think tank transfer would be a lot faster and easier too.

I had 10 sterlite plastic containers I did tank to tank transfers for 2 weeks and no go, was still with them.

I have been doing the above copper treatment, with fish that were flashing when I got them, and, no ick in the DT, not even on the yellow tang!!

zeebies · 12/01/2012, 06:38 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jeff000

Why does everyone worry so much about ich? Keep your system and fish healthy and you won't have any issues.

Because ich can kill fish.

Why not take reasonable precautions to keep it out of our tanks? For me, copper is a little tricky. Hypo sometimes works/sometimes doesn't. Tank transfer seems the least stressful and works with the life cycle of ich.

I look at it as just a little bit of extra work to keep my already healthy system at its best.

And I don't like russian roulette.

danil · 12/06/2012, 06:18 PM

I am convinced there are few strains of ich. Those who 'happily' live with ich in their tanks have regular 'Ich'. This strain could be indeed managed by good husbandry and profilactic medication. It also could be treated with hypo and tank stransfer. The next type of 'strong ich' can not be treated with hypo and/or tank transfer but copper works fine on this one. And last one some called 'super ich' have resistance to copper and usually require multiple treatments. There are reports that Chloroquine Phosphate works on this super Ich the best.

11/30/2012, 08:37 PM	#36
68551 Registered Member Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: Central Pa..... Posts: 517	a couple years ago I had a bout of ich with an old tank I had....I had a beautiful purple tang in the tank & he got it from the strees of the move ( I bought the tank from a client of mine & moved every drop of water & stuff in the tank & reset it up in 1 day & it cleared enough to add the fish back the next morning)....Well the tang got ich really bad & I thought I would loose him, he was starting to swim at the top of the tank & gasp for oxygen spending all of t=his time in g=front of the returns....I found a product called "stop parasites" from chem marin & followed directions to a tee...when ph dropped I added more alk....It took 10 days of twice daily treatments (instead of the 5 days in the instructions) & the owner called & checked up with me every day...It was very comforting to have my noob hand held throughout this process....The tang pulled through great and the ich never returned!!! __________________ Because inquiring minds NEED to know.......sue Current Tank Info: 6/2006 first tank 75g no sump...10/2008, 120 g corner Bow w/overflow, Tunze Osmolator, & 2/ Vortech (40's) PHs, Currents Orbit Lighting w/2/MH150's & 4/t5's plus white & blue moonlighting, Elos NS1000 Skimmer, rk2, Eshopps sump w/fuge & Cheato...

11/29/2012, 09:41 AM	#26
zeebies Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2011 Location: NE Coast Posts: 851	Hmmm, 6 weeks, 8 weeks, 12 weeks... No weeks I have LOTS of patience so I guess it will be (roll the dice) 10 weeks. I hope this isn't too much overkill. Sponger0, yes the life cycle of ich is interesting. Every time I reread the info I learn something. Especially about the resistant strains lurking about now.

11/29/2012, 09:56 AM	#28
discocarp Registered Member Join Date: Jul 2003 Location: Winter Park, FL Posts: 2,707	I think you'll be good with 10 weeks. Just remember its 10 weeks from the last addition. The clock restarts everytime you add something new. As for tank transfer, its quicker but I'll still QT them after the transfer. I like to also treat with prazipro and get some observation time in before they get added to the DT. So the total time won't be that much less, but some.

11/29/2012, 10:53 AM	#29
Cloudburst2000 Registered Member Join Date: Nov 2009 Location: Lexington, KY Posts: 1,485	Yes, it is definitely possible to introduce ich via a coral frag, rock, any animal with hard shell (snails, etc) because ich cysts can live on any hard substrate. My brother-in-law found this out the hard way. He had an aquarium that was running well and had not had any additions/changes in over a year. Then he bought a bubble coral frag at the LFS and added it to his tank. In a matter of days, the fish started to show signs of ich. When he told me what was happening, I was like "you dummy, that LFS is known for having ich in their tank!" He had no clue that ich could be transferred tank to tank by means other then fish. He is now better educated...the hard way.

11/29/2012, 03:39 PM	#31
danil Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2011 Location: Concord, CA Posts: 935	I've seen one post where it was explained why full 8 weeks quarantine for inverts/coral is not needed. Can't find it.. the idea behind it - that only one type of parasite (from ich full life cycle) can be present on them and this type can survive without host for only three days hence you need to quarantine for one week only.

11/29/2012, 04:38 PM	#32
zeebies Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2011 Location: NE Coast Posts: 851	Danil, please post that info if you find it. More stuff to consider...

11/29/2012, 06:10 PM	#33
danil Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2011 Location: Concord, CA Posts: 935	Check this thread http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/sh...cuc+quarantine It's not the original but it has mentioned Snorvich (RC Ich expert) and his 3 days quarantine theory.

11/29/2012, 06:36 PM	#34
zeebies Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2011 Location: NE Coast Posts: 851	Thanks. Wow, 3 day QT for corals/inverts is now in the running. Big difference from 10 weeks. Wondering about the theory on that one.

11/29/2012, 06:42 PM	#35
Jeff000 Electrician Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: Canada Posts: 1,653	Why does everyone worry so much about ich? Keep your system and fish healthy and you won't have any issues. I know for a fact that I have ich in my tank, I only ever see it when I add a new fish, and only for a few days because my purple tang gets angry and stressed so I can see ich for a few days. But like now, I can't see any signs of ich.

12/06/2012, 06:18 PM	#39
danil Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2011 Location: Concord, CA Posts: 935	I am convinced there are few strains of ich. Those who 'happily' live with ich in their tanks have regular 'Ich'. This strain could be indeed managed by good husbandry and profilactic medication. It also could be treated with hypo and tank stransfer. The next type of 'strong ich' can not be treated with hypo and/or tank transfer but copper works fine on this one. And last one some called 'super ich' have resistance to copper and usually require multiple treatments. There are reports that Chloroquine Phosphate works on this super Ich the best.