question about LR from DT putting into QT and back

xpace · 03/14/2013, 02:22 AM

Hi there,

Just a quick one,

I'm about to buy a blenny (starry/lawnmower) not sure which one yet (if you have any suggestion please let me know) and will be keeping it in a QT for about 3-4 weeks (not sure if more is needed).

The question is:
can I put a piece of LR from my DT into the QT as it has fair bit of green hair algae to feed the blenny ?
If yes, then can I put the LR back to DT after the quarantine period ?

Any suggestions ?

Thanks a lot

tank (already running for more than a year):
FOWLR
only 2 clawnfish
bit of green hair algae

Jjtaylor62083 · 03/14/2013, 04:11 AM

If you have or are going to use any copper or other non reef safe treatments in the qt then the rock will absorb it and will transfer back to the dt. You can take rock from dt to qt but not back. You are not even suppose to share nets from tank to tank.

Jjtaylor62083 · 03/14/2013, 04:15 AM

I just seen that your tank is fwowlr so it would be ok as long you dont have any inverts or have plans to have inverts or coral in the future

xpace · 03/14/2013, 04:39 AM

hey,

thanks guys.
I'm not going to use any medications only lowering salinity.
so in this case I believe I can put it back.
please correct me if Im wrong.

thanks

Jjtaylor62083 · 03/14/2013, 06:33 AM

You should be fine just watch you ammonia in the qt you have bac. Die off from the hypo.

MrTuskfish · 03/14/2013, 09:47 AM

IMO & IME:This is the sort of thing that generates so many ''QT didn't work" threads. IMO, nothing that gets near a QT should be bleached before it goes back to the DT. (I have a rule that nothing ever goes from Qt to DT except the fish). The 6 weeks of QT shouldn't matter with some algae growth. You'll need a way to control ammonia.

Just my opinion; if you are just getting one new fish; I'd use tank-transfer for ich. I don't trust hypo anymore and hypo is very demanding and easy to screw up.

xpace · 03/14/2013, 03:10 PM

thanks again,

Im not really using hypo if I can really say that. I was reading an article from one guy where he is lowering the salinity to 1.016 which is apparently on the edge and he uses this method for years without one problem. So I thought I might use this method but I was not sure about the rock. So you think at that salinity level there is going to be huge die off in the rock ? because then I won't do it as there is no point as I want the blenny to eat the algae and he won't have much left.

thanks

MrTuskfish · 03/14/2013, 05:27 PM

I think your friend has been lucky, and probably a good hobbyist as well. They go hand-in-hand. However, A SG of anything above 1.009 will do absolutely nothing to help prevent or cure ich. This can even be dangerous; a SG in the range of 1.015-1.017 or so can actually help hide velvet---a far more dangerous problem than ich. FWIW: Many FOWLR tanks were once kept in this range (and many still are). This did nothing for ich. There really isn't anything that "helps" much with ich; it ALL has to be killed. Also, as you aren't prophylacticly treating for ich; ich cysts could remain undetected in the LR for weeks. I just don't think putting anything into a DT that has any chance of ever been exposed to contagious parasites without at least a 6 week QT time.

xpace · 03/14/2013, 05:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MrTuskfish

I think your friend has been lucky, and probably a good hobbyist as well. They go hand-in-hand. However, A SG of anything above 1.009 will do absolutely nothing to help prevent or cure ich. This can even be dangerous; a SG in the range of 1.015-1.017 or so can actually help hide velvet---a far more dangerous problem than ich. FWIW: Many FOWLR tanks were once kept in this range (and many still are). This did nothing for ich. There really isn't anything that "helps" much with ich; it ALL has to be killed. Also, as you aren't prophylacticly treating for ich; ich cysts could remain undetected in the LR for weeks. I just don't think putting anything into a DT that has any chance of ever been exposed to contagious parasites without at least a 6 week QT time.

Hey,

thanks for that, but I'm not planning to cure anything, this is a new fish I'm about to buy which should be all healthy (hopefully). I'm talking about quarantining the fish before I put it in my DT. So my only question is, if I can use the DT LR in the QT for the quarantine time and then put that LR back to DT.

thanks

MrTuskfish · 03/14/2013, 07:55 PM

Ich cysts can survive in the LR for 10+ weeks. All it takes is one parasite, in any of its life cycle stages, to take ich into your DT. I'll admit to being paranoid when it comes to parasites; but I've torn apart a big tank to eradicate ich. Taking any chance, just for some hair algae ??? I assume you've never dealt with an outbreak of ich or other parasite.

03/14/2013, 02:22 AM	#1
xpace Registered Member Join Date: Sep 2011 Location: Sydney, AU Posts: 74	question about LR from DT putting into QT and back Hi there, Just a quick one, I'm about to buy a blenny (starry/lawnmower) not sure which one yet (if you have any suggestion please let me know) and will be keeping it in a QT for about 3-4 weeks (not sure if more is needed). The question is: can I put a piece of LR from my DT into the QT as it has fair bit of green hair algae to feed the blenny ? If yes, then can I put the LR back to DT after the quarantine period ? Any suggestions ? Thanks a lot tank (already running for more than a year): FOWLR only 2 clawnfish bit of green hair algae

03/14/2013, 09:47 AM	#6
MrTuskfish Registered Member Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: The Wild Blue Yonder Posts: 8,887	IMO & IME:This is the sort of thing that generates so many ''QT didn't work" threads. IMO, nothing that gets near a QT should be bleached before it goes back to the DT. (I have a rule that nothing ever goes from Qt to DT except the fish). The 6 weeks of QT shouldn't matter with some algae growth. You'll need a way to control ammonia. Just my opinion; if you are just getting one new fish; I'd use tank-transfer for ich. I don't trust hypo anymore and hypo is very demanding and easy to screw up. __________________ If God didn't want us to eat animals, he wouldn't have made them out of meat. Steve Current Tank Info: 180, 2-240 FOWLRs, 240 reef

03/14/2013, 05:27 PM	#8
MrTuskfish Registered Member Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: The Wild Blue Yonder Posts: 8,887	I think your friend has been lucky, and probably a good hobbyist as well. They go hand-in-hand. However, A SG of anything above 1.009 will do absolutely nothing to help prevent or cure ich. This can even be dangerous; a SG in the range of 1.015-1.017 or so can actually help hide velvet---a far more dangerous problem than ich. FWIW: Many FOWLR tanks were once kept in this range (and many still are). This did nothing for ich. There really isn't anything that "helps" much with ich; it ALL has to be killed. Also, as you aren't prophylacticly treating for ich; ich cysts could remain undetected in the LR for weeks. I just don't think putting anything into a DT that has any chance of ever been exposed to contagious parasites without at least a 6 week QT time. __________________ If God didn't want us to eat animals, he wouldn't have made them out of meat. Steve Current Tank Info: 180, 2-240 FOWLRs, 240 reef

03/14/2013, 07:55 PM	#10
MrTuskfish Registered Member Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: The Wild Blue Yonder Posts: 8,887	Ich cysts can survive in the LR for 10+ weeks. All it takes is one parasite, in any of its life cycle stages, to take ich into your DT. I'll admit to being paranoid when it comes to parasites; but I've torn apart a big tank to eradicate ich. Taking any chance, just for some hair algae ??? I assume you've never dealt with an outbreak of ich or other parasite. __________________ If God didn't want us to eat animals, he wouldn't have made them out of meat. Steve Current Tank Info: 180, 2-240 FOWLRs, 240 reef

03/14/2013, 04:11 AM	#2
Jjtaylor62083 Registered Member. Join Date: Nov 2012 Location: Bradenton, fl Posts: 344	If you have or are going to use any copper or other non reef safe treatments in the qt then the rock will absorb it and will transfer back to the dt. You can take rock from dt to qt but not back. You are not even suppose to share nets from tank to tank.

03/14/2013, 04:15 AM	#3
Jjtaylor62083 Registered Member. Join Date: Nov 2012 Location: Bradenton, fl Posts: 344	I just seen that your tank is fwowlr so it would be ok as long you dont have any inverts or have plans to have inverts or coral in the future

03/14/2013, 04:39 AM	#4
xpace Registered Member Join Date: Sep 2011 Location: Sydney, AU Posts: 74	hey, thanks guys. I'm not going to use any medications only lowering salinity. so in this case I believe I can put it back. please correct me if Im wrong. thanks

03/14/2013, 06:33 AM	#5
Jjtaylor62083 Registered Member. Join Date: Nov 2012 Location: Bradenton, fl Posts: 344	You should be fine just watch you ammonia in the qt you have bac. Die off from the hypo.

03/14/2013, 03:10 PM	#7
xpace Registered Member Join Date: Sep 2011 Location: Sydney, AU Posts: 74	thanks again, Im not really using hypo if I can really say that. I was reading an article from one guy where he is lowering the salinity to 1.016 which is apparently on the edge and he uses this method for years without one problem. So I thought I might use this method but I was not sure about the rock. So you think at that salinity level there is going to be huge die off in the rock ? because then I won't do it as there is no point as I want the blenny to eat the algae and he won't have much left. thanks