Old RO/DI

virtualliquid · 05/05/2013, 07:37 PM

I have been having a few problems with my newly setup tank ( setup for about 3 months now) I knew getting a RO/DI would solve most of my problems. My brother gave me his RO/DI about a year ago, it was dried out and stored in my basement, recently when I hooked it up and started using it my PPM was at about 10 - 12 now afer flushing and letting run for a while it is now at about 4 on my tds.

My question is, Is this PPM safe for now to use for some water changes until I can get some new filters and membrane? My water out of the faucet is about 150ppm and I can smell the chlorine.. Thanks in advance for suggestions.

virtualliquid · 05/06/2013, 06:32 AM

UPDATE:

As of this morning my current PPM for water coming out of ro/di was 2ppm.

Tennsquire · 05/06/2013, 06:51 AM

Your output after the DI should be zero TDS. I'm thinking that your membrane was damaged from drying out, which happens. I don't think your water is bad, but it's not as good as it could be....

shifty51008 · 05/06/2013, 08:48 AM

if the unit was dried out I suggest changing all the filters and sanitizing the unit

virtualliquid · 05/06/2013, 08:51 AM

I also do not currently have any corals as of yet. It is a FOWLR setup. But I am having a bad outbreak of the diatoms algae, and from what I understand RO/DI water will greatly help fight this. So I figured for now 2ppm is better than 150ppm of stuff in my water.

Thanks for input.

virtualliquid · 05/06/2013, 08:56 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by shifty51008

if the unit was dried out I suggest changing all the filters and sanitizing the unit

What would be the best way to sanitize a RO/DI?

shifty51008 · 05/06/2013, 09:01 AM

this is from Russ at buckeyesfieldsupply

We recommend sanitizing your RO/DI system approximately once per year. Schedule this process at a time when you are planning to replace your cartridges. These instructions apply to water purification systems without a pressure tank. Before you begin assure that you have about an hour available, and that your work area and hands are clean.

Turn off the water supply to the system.

Remove all housings and remove all pre-filters and post-filters from the system including sediment filters, carbon filters, in-line filters, and deionization cartridges. Remove the reverse osmosis membrane(s).

Wash housings with a soft brush or cloth in warm soapy water. Rinse thoroughly to remove all soap. Donâ€™t forget to carefully remove and wash all o-rings. Lubricate the o-rings with a small amount of silicone grease and reinstall them.

Fill each vertical housing with one cup of potable water and three to four tablespoons of household bleach, and with this sanitizing liquid still in the housings, screw them back on to the system.

Turn on the water supply a bit, allow water to fill the entire system, and assure water is flowing out of the waste line and the purified water line. Place the outlet of the drain tube and purified water tube slightly higher than the system to assure these tubes are full of the sanitizing solution. When the sanitizing solution has reached the outlet of each tube, and with the outlet of each tube placed above the rest of the system, shut off the water supply for 30 minutes.

After 30 minutes, turn the water supply on and assure that water exits the system from both the drain tube and the purified water port. Flush the sanitizing solution from the system for 5 to 10 minutes.

Turn off the water supply and install new filters, taking care to flush the filters as appropriate.

We recommend keeping a maintenance record for your system. Record the date of the sanitizing and filter replacement.

05/05/2013, 07:37 PM	#1
virtualliquid Registered Member Join Date: Jun 2010 Posts: 19	Old RO/DI I have been having a few problems with my newly setup tank ( setup for about 3 months now) I knew getting a RO/DI would solve most of my problems. My brother gave me his RO/DI about a year ago, it was dried out and stored in my basement, recently when I hooked it up and started using it my PPM was at about 10 - 12 now afer flushing and letting run for a while it is now at about 4 on my tds. My question is, Is this PPM safe for now to use for some water changes until I can get some new filters and membrane? My water out of the faucet is about 150ppm and I can smell the chlorine.. Thanks in advance for suggestions.

05/06/2013, 06:51 AM	#3
Tennsquire Registered Member Join Date: Feb 2002 Location: Nashville, TN Posts: 1,399	Your output after the DI should be zero TDS. I'm thinking that your membrane was damaged from drying out, which happens. I don't think your water is bad, but it's not as good as it could be.... __________________ Nothin' left to do but smile, smile, smile.... Current Tank Info: 75 reef (2x 250 ReefOptix IIIs, AB 10k bulbs w/ 330 watt VHO, EuroReef RC135 skimmer, multicontrolled Tunze 6095's X2); 40 sps prop tank (Outer Orbit Pro 150, Euroreef CS6-1+ skimmer); 20 softie prop tank

05/06/2013, 08:48 AM	#4
shifty51008 12-5 Chiefs record Join Date: Mar 2010 Location: NW Iowa Posts: 10,134	if the unit was dried out I suggest changing all the filters and sanitizing the unit __________________ 75 gal. mixed DT, 100 gal. sump, 50 gal. fuge, Clownfish breeder

05/06/2013, 09:01 AM	#7
shifty51008 12-5 Chiefs record Join Date: Mar 2010 Location: NW Iowa Posts: 10,134	this is from Russ at buckeyesfieldsupply We recommend sanitizing your RO/DI system approximately once per year. Schedule this process at a time when you are planning to replace your cartridges. These instructions apply to water purification systems without a pressure tank. Before you begin assure that you have about an hour available, and that your work area and hands are clean. Turn off the water supply to the system. Remove all housings and remove all pre-filters and post-filters from the system including sediment filters, carbon filters, in-line filters, and deionization cartridges. Remove the reverse osmosis membrane(s). Wash housings with a soft brush or cloth in warm soapy water. Rinse thoroughly to remove all soap. Donâ€™t forget to carefully remove and wash all o-rings. Lubricate the o-rings with a small amount of silicone grease and reinstall them. Fill each vertical housing with one cup of potable water and three to four tablespoons of household bleach, and with this sanitizing liquid still in the housings, screw them back on to the system. Turn on the water supply a bit, allow water to fill the entire system, and assure water is flowing out of the waste line and the purified water line. Place the outlet of the drain tube and purified water tube slightly higher than the system to assure these tubes are full of the sanitizing solution. When the sanitizing solution has reached the outlet of each tube, and with the outlet of each tube placed above the rest of the system, shut off the water supply for 30 minutes. After 30 minutes, turn the water supply on and assure that water exits the system from both the drain tube and the purified water port. Flush the sanitizing solution from the system for 5 to 10 minutes. Turn off the water supply and install new filters, taking care to flush the filters as appropriate. We recommend keeping a maintenance record for your system. Record the date of the sanitizing and filter replacement. __________________ 75 gal. mixed DT, 100 gal. sump, 50 gal. fuge, Clownfish breeder

05/06/2013, 06:32 AM	#2
virtualliquid Registered Member Join Date: Jun 2010 Posts: 19	UPDATE: As of this morning my current PPM for water coming out of ro/di was 2ppm.

05/06/2013, 08:51 AM	#5
virtualliquid Registered Member Join Date: Jun 2010 Posts: 19	I also do not currently have any corals as of yet. It is a FOWLR setup. But I am having a bad outbreak of the diatoms algae, and from what I understand RO/DI water will greatly help fight this. So I figured for now 2ppm is better than 150ppm of stuff in my water. Thanks for input.