How elaborate is your plumbing?

sawlty dog · 09/10/2013, 03:52 PM

I'm currently working on setting up my 60 cube and have a lot of nice equipment (that has maxed out my budget), so I was wondering how elaborate everyone has done their plumbing? It seems like basic plumbing can be done relatively cheap, but more elaborate plumbing gets expensive fast.

How real is the need to be able to completely detach your plumbing by unscrewing? I'm thinking flexible PVC with hose clamps and a couple of T fittings to plumb reactors into my return pump. Thoughts? I'm obviously new to this.

Thanks in advance!

mrx66699 · 09/10/2013, 03:56 PM

lol yup your new

sawlty dog · 09/10/2013, 04:02 PM

I've had tanks for many years, but have never plumbed them myself....haha. Or at least the plumbing has never involved much more than a return and a drain.

mrx66699 · 09/10/2013, 05:40 PM

what would you like to do and where are you located

thedragon · 09/10/2013, 06:30 PM

I spent easy $500 on plumbing alone lol.

AquamanE · 09/10/2013, 07:03 PM

Sorry guys. There is no need to complicate plumbing for a 60G.

Flexible hose and clamps is fine!!. Less than $40 at HD. I help Tony Vargas do his plumbing on a 300. We spent less than $80 at HD.

Complicated systems is what draws noobies away from the hobby. Truth is we dont need complicated systems to start of with. As he gets more into it, he can add a thing or two, one step at a time. And agin thats if he wants. Its not NECESSARY.

mrx66699 · 09/10/2013, 08:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by AquamanE

Sorry guys. There is no need to complicate plumbing for a 60G.

Flexible hose and clamps is fine!!. Less than $40 at HD. I help Tony Vargas do his plumbing on a 300. We spent less than $80 at HD.

Complicated systems is what draws noobies away from the hobby. Truth is we don't need complicated systems to start of with. As he gets more into it, he can add a thing or two, one step at a time. And again thats if he wants. Its not NECESSARY.

Sorry Eddie but your very wrong here flex pvc and a hose clamp is just asking for trouble .....flex pvc is not good with a hose clamp it is very rigid and can leak....now braided hose line would be a better choice for hose clamps and ...... if you are going to use flex pvc then you should glue it properly not use hose clamps on it......

sawlty .....do it correct the first time and don't Micky Mouse around and you will be much happier and will sleep better knowing you did......

Rogger Castells · 09/10/2013, 08:40 PM

To answer your question, it is really up to you, there is no real need to be able to disassemble the entire set up, so, expensive ball valves with double unions could be avoided, however depending on were is your pump internal or external you might want to plan for the day the pump breaks and easy replacement by using such valves. That is not the case if you use and internal pump.
The other thing that you may want to prevent is back flow, you can do this with a valve which only works when you are around and trust me you are never around when power goes out, or you can tune your return nozzle and your sump so that there is enough space in the sump to take all the water that back flows in an event of a power outage.
The simplest way to do this is shutting the power down and waiting until there is no more water coming down from your tank.

Daimyo68 · 09/10/2013, 10:57 PM

Flexible braided hose will be the easy way to go, unless your looking to hard plumb the system. You can add in plastic "T's" if you want to supply reactors, and secure the tubing using U clamps. Also being able to remove the return pump when the need arises is nice. You can use a barbed fitting off the pump, and then just pull the hose off if needed.

As mentioned above, getting complicated on any system isn't a real need, it's more of a "I want" thing

I just hard plumbed a 150g with the BA drain system, and a return system that supplies 2 reactors for less than $50, and as mentioned above again, a 300g was plumbed for less than $80. Soft plumbing a 60g should be less than $40.

ocean82 · 09/11/2013, 06:23 AM

simple, keep it simple.

blackthunda77 · 09/11/2013, 07:52 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by AquamanE

Sorry guys. There is no need to complicate plumbing for a 60G.

Flexible hose and clamps is fine!!. Less than $40 at HD. I help Tony Vargas do his plumbing on a 300. We spent less than $80 at HD.

Complicated systems is what draws noobies away from the hobby. Truth is we dont need complicated systems to start of with. As he gets more into it, he can add a thing or two, one step at a time. And agin thats if he wants. Its not NECESSARY.

+1, I'm with Eddie on this one.

Pastey · 09/11/2013, 08:00 AM

My current tank was the first one I ever plumbed. I'd say I spent ~$250 to hard plumb the tank and SW mixing/storing station with Sch40, unions, ball valves, union ball valves and misc. supplies. If I were doing it again, I'd do it the exact same way. Flex pipe, braided lines, hose clamps will work like most everyone has stated but, in the end, I wanted to be proud to look at every aspect of my build by not cutting corners. I think hard plumbing adds a level of professionalism to a build. It might cost more up front but it's solid/sturdy and I like that.

DRThompson · 09/11/2013, 10:34 AM

SIMPLE

Complicated

Unless you are going to show everyone your sump area, dont worry about how bad it looks as long as it functions

DRThompson · 09/11/2013, 10:38 AM

Here's a link with a lot of useful information

http://www.dfwmas.org/Forums/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=102856

sawlty dog · 09/11/2013, 04:08 PM

I'm glad to see that even amongst more seasoned reefers there is debate.

I may hard plumb it, but I'm going to keep it simple for now. thanks everyone!

planedoc · 09/11/2013, 05:07 PM

It's cheaper to run solid pvc than flexible tubing and flex pvc is by far the most expensive. One thing to remember if you use clear tubing Is algae will grow inside tubes if they are exposed to light. I use threaded bulkheads and valves because they are the expensive parts and threaded ones can be disassembled and reused over and over. I add a union or three so I can take things apart to be cleaned without having to buy new parts. Price the bulbed hose fittings for tubing and clamps and the price of tubing against a 10 foot piece of solid pvc and a few 90, 45 and T fittings. Flex pvc is great as it can reduce head pressure by bending without using fittings, but it's expensive and you need to heat it with a heat gun to shape it. I buy regular pvc and heat it and bend it the same way. It's a low pressure system so the stretched walls that are slightly thinner do not jeopardize the integrity of the plumbing. What ever way you go keep it as simple as possible. Every fitting, every valve, and every inch of pipe reduces flow (increases head pressure) and will cost you electricity for the life of your tank. Another good tip is pay the extra dollar and buy clear primer and clear glue. The finished product will look much better.
Pvc 101... cut everything true & square. Add primer and glue to both sides of a joint, slightly twist while pushing together and hold for 10 seconds before letting go.

AquamanE · 09/11/2013, 06:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mrx66699

Sorry Eddie but your very wrong here flex pvc and a hose clamp is just asking for trouble .....flex pvc is not good with a hose clamp it is very rigid and can leak....now braided hose line would be a better choice for hose clamps and ...... if you are going to use flex pvc then you should glue it properly not use hose clamps on it......

sawlty .....do it correct the first time and don't Micky Mouse around and you will be much happier and will sleep better knowing you did......

Matt- I never meant to insinuate Flex PVC should/could be hose clamped. If you look at my post it says "flexible hose" and clamps. I agree Flex PVC needs to be glued.

On a 60G, flexible hose and clamps is plenty. Braided flexible hose is better but not really necessary. Mind you the difference in price between braided and regular flexible hose is probably not significant enough to not choose braided, but again, imho, not a MUST.

As DR. T just demonstrated, keep it simple until you are ready for a more sophisticated tank.

That being said, your plumbing whether hard, braided, or just simple flexible will not exclude you from keeping a tank with whatever inhabitants you want!!. Other much more important things come into play with this.

AquamanE · 09/11/2013, 06:52 PM

BTW- Im of the opinion check valves are useless!!!. Ive bought them all. The cheap ones, the expensive ones. They all go bad at one point or the other.

Make sure your sump can handle a power failure....PERIOD. This can be as simple as drilling a hole in your return or raising you return outlets. Its pretty easy to determine. Turn off your power and make sure your sump can handle. If not make the proper adjustments.

DRThompson · 09/11/2013, 08:00 PM

Agree with master Eddie I do. (Yoda voice) all check valves fail.

Also, Don't hard pipe to your return pump (unless its external). Make the last foot a flexible pipe to help prevent that nasty pump vibration sound (particularly bad with mag pumps)

blackthunda77 · 09/12/2013, 07:34 AM

So thats what that sound is that keeps me up at night? LOL

09/10/2013, 03:52 PM	#1
sawlty dog Registered Member Join Date: Nov 2012 Posts: 218	How elaborate is your plumbing? I'm currently working on setting up my 60 cube and have a lot of nice equipment (that has maxed out my budget), so I was wondering how elaborate everyone has done their plumbing? It seems like basic plumbing can be done relatively cheap, but more elaborate plumbing gets expensive fast. How real is the need to be able to completely detach your plumbing by unscrewing? I'm thinking flexible PVC with hose clamps and a couple of T fittings to plumb reactors into my return pump. Thoughts? I'm obviously new to this. Thanks in advance!

09/10/2013, 03:56 PM	#2
mrx66699 Registered Member Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: ft. laud Posts: 5,994	lol yup your new __________________ Nano with a few dozen tangs. Life is the slowest form of suicide!

09/10/2013, 05:40 PM	#4
mrx66699 Registered Member Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: ft. laud Posts: 5,994	what would you like to do and where are you located __________________ Nano with a few dozen tangs. Life is the slowest form of suicide!

09/10/2013, 07:03 PM	#6
AquamanE Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2001 Location: Miami, FL Posts: 6,544	Sorry guys. There is no need to complicate plumbing for a 60G. Flexible hose and clamps is fine!!. Less than $40 at HD. I help Tony Vargas do his plumbing on a 300. We spent less than $80 at HD. Complicated systems is what draws noobies away from the hobby. Truth is we dont need complicated systems to start of with. As he gets more into it, he can add a thing or two, one step at a time. And agin thats if he wants. Its not NECESSARY. __________________ Eddie Soler FMAS BOD Member MACNA 2013 Chairman "I'd rather die living than live to die" Current Tank Info: 200G mixed reef with 60G sump, Radion LED’s , Bubble King skimmer, blah blah blah.

09/10/2013, 10:57 PM	#9
Daimyo68 Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: North Palm Beach, FL Posts: 2,270	Flexible braided hose will be the easy way to go, unless your looking to hard plumb the system. You can add in plastic "T's" if you want to supply reactors, and secure the tubing using U clamps. Also being able to remove the return pump when the need arises is nice. You can use a barbed fitting off the pump, and then just pull the hose off if needed. As mentioned above, getting complicated on any system isn't a real need, it's more of a "I want" thing I just hard plumbed a 150g with the BA drain system, and a return system that supplies 2 reactors for less than $50, and as mentioned above again, a 300g was plumbed for less than $80. Soft plumbing a 60g should be less than $40. __________________ 120g, 50g Sump, SRO XP2000i, MP40W x2, DIY Hybrid LED/T5 Fixture, Apex PBMAS VP 2010-11 PBMAS 2017 President

09/10/2013, 04:02 PM	#3
sawlty dog Registered Member Join Date: Nov 2012 Posts: 218	I've had tanks for many years, but have never plumbed them myself....haha. Or at least the plumbing has never involved much more than a return and a drain.

09/10/2013, 06:30 PM	#5
thedragon Registered Member. Join Date: Jul 2013 Posts: 136	I spent easy $500 on plumbing alone lol.

09/10/2013, 08:40 PM	#8
Rogger Castells Registered Member Join Date: Aug 2004 Location: Weston, FL Posts: 7,495	To answer your question, it is really up to you, there is no real need to be able to disassemble the entire set up, so, expensive ball valves with double unions could be avoided, however depending on were is your pump internal or external you might want to plan for the day the pump breaks and easy replacement by using such valves. That is not the case if you use and internal pump. The other thing that you may want to prevent is back flow, you can do this with a valve which only works when you are around and trust me you are never around when power goes out, or you can tune your return nozzle and your sump so that there is enough space in the sump to take all the water that back flows in an event of a power outage. The simplest way to do this is shutting the power down and waiting until there is no more water coming down from your tank.

09/11/2013, 06:23 AM	#10
ocean82 Moved On Join Date: May 2011 Posts: 460	simple, keep it simple.

09/11/2013, 08:00 AM	#12
Pastey Registered Member Join Date: Feb 2013 Location: Baton Rouge, LA Posts: 835	My current tank was the first one I ever plumbed. I'd say I spent ~$250 to hard plumb the tank and SW mixing/storing station with Sch40, unions, ball valves, union ball valves and misc. supplies. If I were doing it again, I'd do it the exact same way. Flex pipe, braided lines, hose clamps will work like most everyone has stated but, in the end, I wanted to be proud to look at every aspect of my build by not cutting corners. I think hard plumbing adds a level of professionalism to a build. It might cost more up front but it's solid/sturdy and I like that. __________________ I got a fever, and the only prescription is more pictures.

09/11/2013, 10:34 AM	#13
DRThompson 2018 FMAS President Join Date: Oct 2004 Location: Coral Springs, Florida Posts: 2,082	SIMPLE Complicated Unless you are going to show everyone your sump area, dont worry about how bad it looks as long as it functions __________________ dave Current Tank Info: 180gal mixed reef, asm g4xx, LED lights, apex, 65gal sump, 2x mp40's, methanol denitrator

09/11/2013, 10:38 AM	#14
DRThompson 2018 FMAS President Join Date: Oct 2004 Location: Coral Springs, Florida Posts: 2,082	Here's a link with a lot of useful information http://www.dfwmas.org/Forums/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=102856 __________________ dave Current Tank Info: 180gal mixed reef, asm g4xx, LED lights, apex, 65gal sump, 2x mp40's, methanol denitrator

09/11/2013, 04:08 PM	#15
sawlty dog Registered Member Join Date: Nov 2012 Posts: 218	I'm glad to see that even amongst more seasoned reefers there is debate. I may hard plumb it, but I'm going to keep it simple for now. thanks everyone!

09/11/2013, 05:07 PM	#16
planedoc Registered Member Join Date: Jul 2012 Posts: 535	It's cheaper to run solid pvc than flexible tubing and flex pvc is by far the most expensive. One thing to remember if you use clear tubing Is algae will grow inside tubes if they are exposed to light. I use threaded bulkheads and valves because they are the expensive parts and threaded ones can be disassembled and reused over and over. I add a union or three so I can take things apart to be cleaned without having to buy new parts. Price the bulbed hose fittings for tubing and clamps and the price of tubing against a 10 foot piece of solid pvc and a few 90, 45 and T fittings. Flex pvc is great as it can reduce head pressure by bending without using fittings, but it's expensive and you need to heat it with a heat gun to shape it. I buy regular pvc and heat it and bend it the same way. It's a low pressure system so the stretched walls that are slightly thinner do not jeopardize the integrity of the plumbing. What ever way you go keep it as simple as possible. Every fitting, every valve, and every inch of pipe reduces flow (increases head pressure) and will cost you electricity for the life of your tank. Another good tip is pay the extra dollar and buy clear primer and clear glue. The finished product will look much better. Pvc 101... cut everything true & square. Add primer and glue to both sides of a joint, slightly twist while pushing together and hold for 10 seconds before letting go.

09/11/2013, 06:52 PM	#18
AquamanE Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2001 Location: Miami, FL Posts: 6,544	BTW- Im of the opinion check valves are useless!!!. Ive bought them all. The cheap ones, the expensive ones. They all go bad at one point or the other. Make sure your sump can handle a power failure....PERIOD. This can be as simple as drilling a hole in your return or raising you return outlets. Its pretty easy to determine. Turn off your power and make sure your sump can handle. If not make the proper adjustments. __________________ Eddie Soler FMAS BOD Member MACNA 2013 Chairman "I'd rather die living than live to die" Current Tank Info: 200G mixed reef with 60G sump, Radion LED’s , Bubble King skimmer, blah blah blah.

09/11/2013, 08:00 PM	#19
DRThompson 2018 FMAS President Join Date: Oct 2004 Location: Coral Springs, Florida Posts: 2,082	Agree with master Eddie I do. (Yoda voice) all check valves fail. Also, Don't hard pipe to your return pump (unless its external). Make the last foot a flexible pipe to help prevent that nasty pump vibration sound (particularly bad with mag pumps) __________________ dave Current Tank Info: 180gal mixed reef, asm g4xx, LED lights, apex, 65gal sump, 2x mp40's, methanol denitrator

09/12/2013, 07:34 AM	#20
blackthunda77 Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2004 Location: East Coast/West Coast Posts: 4,887	So thats what that sound is that keeps me up at night? LOL __________________ - John *blackthunda stands for a black Mistubishi 3000GT with black rims I used to own. Don't get any funny ideas! Current Tank Info: 200 Gal custom tank with dual corner overflows, 80 gal custom sump/refugium, Neptune Apex controller, Dual Lumenmax Elite reflectors with 250 Radiums, SWC 160 Cone Skimmer, 2x Jebao WP-25....and some other stuff.