Starting over

Guss · 09/17/2013, 06:56 AM

I started a reef tank a year ago or so. Had major issues with a frogspawn, then the cyano over took the tank. Did blackouts, increased flow, cut way back on feeding, water changes constantly you name it we did it. Finally a few weeks ago I had a fellow reefer stop by and helped out. Red slime remover to the rescue. I didn't want to chemically treat but was at my wits end. It was that bad that killed most everything in the tank before treating it. excluding fish, even the mushrooms disappeared.. The tank has been stable now for two weeks after changing 40% of the water. What is it experienced folks do to keep the cyano at bay. We have been battling until three weeks ago when we treated it and do not want to go through it again.

Fizz71 · 09/17/2013, 07:38 AM

You are using RO/DI right?

I have always had a bit of cyano in my sandbed because it's so cluttered with frags that the flow is off plus if I put more water movement on it the sand will blow, but it's never on the rocks.

How is the return plumbed..is it just a straight return? 2200gph sounds a bit excessive to me and return water usually isn't controlled (aimed) that well. In my 240g I have a 600gph return (on the opposite spectrum as you), a 3250gph power head running circles on the sand (peninsula setup) and 2x950gph pumps pushing across the corals (along with the return).

I know if I want to get rid of the rest of the cyano I'd need about 2 more 950s (and get rid of some frags

).

In addition to what you've already done I'd look at your flow, and of course make sure it's good RO/DI water.

Guss · 09/17/2013, 08:49 AM

It is RO/DI water. funny thing is the guy that has been helping me has never used a drop of RO water in 5 years gets his straight from the well his water is perfect. SPS softies everything grows in his tank. Return is plumbed into a manifold with four (movable) directional heads. I tried all types of flow. After doing a lot of research, flow apparently has little do with cyano. nutrients and light seem to be the factor. This stuff was growing everywhere. it even covered the power heads. and the glass where the head was pointed is where it started then spread like wild fire

Fizz71 · 09/17/2013, 01:03 PM

Let's try this again (internet dropped on me earlier)....

Not all water is the same...I had well water you could almost chew that burned through DIs so fast I stopped bothering. I have city water now that is better, but still warrants RO/DI. Some people have good wells or city water and could get by.

You're right about flow not being a direct factor of cyano but IMO by keeping the water moving it has less of a chance to grab on and grow. Everybody has opinions on the stuff, I think flow helps keep it at bay, but it's not a cure.

Does the tank get direct sun? How old are your t5 bulbs? I'd ask what the spectrum is of each bulb as well but I don't use t5s so no matter what your answer I wouldn't know good from bad...but it's something I'd look into.

And you did read the cyano sticky thread right?

Guss · 09/17/2013, 01:50 PM

I have read the sticky many times and it was helpful, however it kept coming back.

The tank only receives indirect light in the morning for about 3 hours. I have since put heavier curtains on these two windows.

The bulbs are 8 months old but cyano started growing when they were about 5 months. I will be changing them in the next two weeks ( next payday)

I agree flow is good at holding things at bay. But my cyano outbreak was epic and kept growing steadily. I stopped feeding flakes about 2 months ago also. I heard this could have been a factor.

I am going to take a sample of my well and have a mass spec run on it. (Luckily I work at a college and have a marine biologist to help me out with this)

And if anyone has a spectrum suggestion for T5 bulbs feel free to chime in.

Fizz71 · 09/18/2013, 06:02 AM

Good luck with it...at this point I wouldn't know what else to look for. I'm guessing others haven't chimed in because it's just one of those thing we all have to deal with occasionally.

Guss · 09/18/2013, 01:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Fizz71

Good luck with it...at this point I wouldn't know what else to look for. I'm guessing others haven't chimed in because it's just one of those thing we all have to deal with occasionally.

Thanks man I will just keep plugging away at it!

09/17/2013, 06:56 AM	#1
Guss Registered Member Join Date: Jul 2012 Location: harrisburg Pa Posts: 296	Starting over I started a reef tank a year ago or so. Had major issues with a frogspawn, then the cyano over took the tank. Did blackouts, increased flow, cut way back on feeding, water changes constantly you name it we did it. Finally a few weeks ago I had a fellow reefer stop by and helped out. Red slime remover to the rescue. I didn't want to chemically treat but was at my wits end. It was that bad that killed most everything in the tank before treating it. excluding fish, even the mushrooms disappeared.. The tank has been stable now for two weeks after changing 40% of the water. What is it experienced folks do to keep the cyano at bay. We have been battling until three weeks ago when we treated it and do not want to go through it again. __________________ 150 reef tank, coralife 225 skimmer,40 gal sump,2" fine SB, 2 950gph powerheads, 2200 gph return. Temp.78, Ph 8.2, Nh3 -0, No2-0, No3-5 Ca-400, Kh-9 ,Po4-0, Mg~900, T5 6 bulb lighting, Sg 1024 Current Tank Info: 150 reef tank

09/17/2013, 07:38 AM	#2
Fizz71 FragSwapper Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: West Lawn, PA Posts: 5,800	You are using RO/DI right? I have always had a bit of cyano in my sandbed because it's so cluttered with frags that the flow is off plus if I put more water movement on it the sand will blow, but it's never on the rocks. How is the return plumbed..is it just a straight return? 2200gph sounds a bit excessive to me and return water usually isn't controlled (aimed) that well. In my 240g I have a 600gph return (on the opposite spectrum as you), a 3250gph power head running circles on the sand (peninsula setup) and 2x950gph pumps pushing across the corals (along with the return). I know if I want to get rid of the rest of the cyano I'd need about 2 more 950s (and get rid of some frags ). In addition to what you've already done I'd look at your flow, and of course make sure it's good RO/DI water. __________________ --Fizz Current Tank Info: Current system is 8x2x2 240g peninsula setup with a single "chamber" 100g sump in the basement with an RDSB. All corals are 100% home grown from frags of fellow reefers (low natural reef impact).

09/17/2013, 08:49 AM	#3
Guss Registered Member Join Date: Jul 2012 Location: harrisburg Pa Posts: 296	It is RO/DI water. funny thing is the guy that has been helping me has never used a drop of RO water in 5 years gets his straight from the well his water is perfect. SPS softies everything grows in his tank. Return is plumbed into a manifold with four (movable) directional heads. I tried all types of flow. After doing a lot of research, flow apparently has little do with cyano. nutrients and light seem to be the factor. This stuff was growing everywhere. it even covered the power heads. and the glass where the head was pointed is where it started then spread like wild fire __________________ 150 reef tank, coralife 225 skimmer,40 gal sump,2" fine SB, 2 950gph powerheads, 2200 gph return. Temp.78, Ph 8.2, Nh3 -0, No2-0, No3-5 Ca-400, Kh-9 ,Po4-0, Mg~900, T5 6 bulb lighting, Sg 1024 Current Tank Info: 150 reef tank

09/17/2013, 01:03 PM	#4
Fizz71 FragSwapper Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: West Lawn, PA Posts: 5,800	Let's try this again (internet dropped on me earlier).... Not all water is the same...I had well water you could almost chew that burned through DIs so fast I stopped bothering. I have city water now that is better, but still warrants RO/DI. Some people have good wells or city water and could get by. You're right about flow not being a direct factor of cyano but IMO by keeping the water moving it has less of a chance to grab on and grow. Everybody has opinions on the stuff, I think flow helps keep it at bay, but it's not a cure. Does the tank get direct sun? How old are your t5 bulbs? I'd ask what the spectrum is of each bulb as well but I don't use t5s so no matter what your answer I wouldn't know good from bad...but it's something I'd look into. And you did read the cyano sticky thread right? __________________ --Fizz Current Tank Info: Current system is 8x2x2 240g peninsula setup with a single "chamber" 100g sump in the basement with an RDSB. All corals are 100% home grown from frags of fellow reefers (low natural reef impact).

09/17/2013, 01:50 PM	#5
Guss Registered Member Join Date: Jul 2012 Location: harrisburg Pa Posts: 296	I have read the sticky many times and it was helpful, however it kept coming back. The tank only receives indirect light in the morning for about 3 hours. I have since put heavier curtains on these two windows. The bulbs are 8 months old but cyano started growing when they were about 5 months. I will be changing them in the next two weeks ( next payday) I agree flow is good at holding things at bay. But my cyano outbreak was epic and kept growing steadily. I stopped feeding flakes about 2 months ago also. I heard this could have been a factor. I am going to take a sample of my well and have a mass spec run on it. (Luckily I work at a college and have a marine biologist to help me out with this) And if anyone has a spectrum suggestion for T5 bulbs feel free to chime in. __________________ 150 reef tank, coralife 225 skimmer,40 gal sump,2" fine SB, 2 950gph powerheads, 2200 gph return. Temp.78, Ph 8.2, Nh3 -0, No2-0, No3-5 Ca-400, Kh-9 ,Po4-0, Mg~900, T5 6 bulb lighting, Sg 1024 Current Tank Info: 150 reef tank

09/18/2013, 06:02 AM	#6
Fizz71 FragSwapper Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: West Lawn, PA Posts: 5,800	Good luck with it...at this point I wouldn't know what else to look for. I'm guessing others haven't chimed in because it's just one of those thing we all have to deal with occasionally. __________________ --Fizz Current Tank Info: Current system is 8x2x2 240g peninsula setup with a single "chamber" 100g sump in the basement with an RDSB. All corals are 100% home grown from frags of fellow reefers (low natural reef impact).