Wet/dry filter

jpocock · 09/21/2013, 10:47 AM

What precautions do I need to take with my wet dry filter stop nitrates from get out-of-control?

Calappidae · 09/21/2013, 11:45 AM

A wet dry is a media box that you put in a sump. A sump is a tank underneithe the main display. Inside the wet dry unit there are bio-balls inside. Our aquariums live off of nitrifying bacteria. When fish are stressed and release urine or dies in the tank it gives off ammonia. Ammonia is toxic and kills fish.. nitrifying bacteria will turn ammonia into nitrites, then it will turn nitrites in to a less toxic form called nitrates. The bacteria will then just get rid of the nitrates and ends the cycle... until the fish are fed then the cycle repeats itself all over again. The Wet dry bio-balls are ment to house and breed the bacteria to eat up any ammonia, nitrites, or nitrates that pass through. It should never be cleaned, and it should be left alone maintence wise. Spikes in nitrates means too much feeding, over-stocked, etc. the bacteria is going to take time to breed and adjust to the new levels in nitrates. A 25% or 30% water change will also get rid of the nitrates COMPLETELY like magic.

Reefmedic79 · 09/21/2013, 05:18 PM

Is this for a reef tank or fish only?

If for a reef, remove the bioballs all together, and place a skimmer in their place. Bio-balls have been connected to an increase of nitrates in reef systems. Sufficient LR, a skimmer, and sufficient water changes will keep nitrates down to levels appropriate for reef tanks.

If for a fish only system, there should be a drip plate on top of the bio-ball chamber which you should place filter floss on top of to act as a pre-filter. This filter needs to be replaced every month or so, also the bio-ball chamber shouldn't allow the bio balls to become submerged, water should trickle over the balls.

Calappidae · 09/21/2013, 06:47 PM

I personally only use refugiums so I'd take the person above's word on it.

Twistofer · 09/21/2013, 06:54 PM

I started with Wet-Dry filter when I first started. It was a PIA and nitrates went through the roof. Sump - Skimmer - Refugium - Water Changes would be my recommendation.

cloak · 09/21/2013, 09:00 PM

IMO, a wet-dry is not necessarily the problem. It's you... Don't get me wrong, there's more efficient ways to do things, but I'm not scared of the bioballs... JMO.

09/21/2013, 10:47 AM	#1
jpocock Registered Member Join Date: Oct 2012 Posts: 67	Wet/dry filter What precautions do I need to take with my wet dry filter stop nitrates from get out-of-control?

09/21/2013, 11:45 AM	#2
Calappidae Harlequin Shrimp Join Date: Aug 2013 Location: Somewhere Posts: 3,814	A wet dry is a media box that you put in a sump. A sump is a tank underneithe the main display. Inside the wet dry unit there are bio-balls inside. Our aquariums live off of nitrifying bacteria. When fish are stressed and release urine or dies in the tank it gives off ammonia. Ammonia is toxic and kills fish.. nitrifying bacteria will turn ammonia into nitrites, then it will turn nitrites in to a less toxic form called nitrates. The bacteria will then just get rid of the nitrates and ends the cycle... until the fish are fed then the cycle repeats itself all over again. The Wet dry bio-balls are ment to house and breed the bacteria to eat up any ammonia, nitrites, or nitrates that pass through. It should never be cleaned, and it should be left alone maintence wise. Spikes in nitrates means too much feeding, over-stocked, etc. the bacteria is going to take time to breed and adjust to the new levels in nitrates. A 25% or 30% water change will also get rid of the nitrates COMPLETELY like magic. __________________ Joe

09/21/2013, 05:18 PM	#3
Reefmedic79 Life and Reef Saver Join Date: Feb 2003 Location: Tavares, Florida Posts: 6,202	Is this for a reef tank or fish only? If for a reef, remove the bioballs all together, and place a skimmer in their place. Bio-balls have been connected to an increase of nitrates in reef systems. Sufficient LR, a skimmer, and sufficient water changes will keep nitrates down to levels appropriate for reef tanks. If for a fish only system, there should be a drip plate on top of the bio-ball chamber which you should place filter floss on top of to act as a pre-filter. This filter needs to be replaced every month or so, also the bio-ball chamber shouldn't allow the bio balls to become submerged, water should trickle over the balls. __________________ ><((((º>`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸.·´¯`·...¸><((((º>¸. ·´¯`·.¸. , . .·´¯`·.. ><((((º>`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸.·´¯`·...¸><((((º> How much deeper would the ocean be if it didn't have sponges? P. Sherman 42 Wallaby Way Sid Current Tank Info: 40 Breeder, 20L Sump, 10G Fuge, JBJ A.T.O, 4" Reef Octopus, DIY Stand & Canopy, RapidLED Dimmable 36 Kit on 3 6" MakersLED Heatsink, MP10es

09/21/2013, 06:47 PM	#4
Calappidae Harlequin Shrimp Join Date: Aug 2013 Location: Somewhere Posts: 3,814	I personally only use refugiums so I'd take the person above's word on it. __________________ Joe

09/21/2013, 06:54 PM	#5
Twistofer Registered Member Join Date: Jun 2013 Location: Montana Posts: 371	I started with Wet-Dry filter when I first started. It was a PIA and nitrates went through the roof. Sump - Skimmer - Refugium - Water Changes would be my recommendation. __________________ See what is; See what is not; Find the True Way ...The Buddha Current Tank Info: 120 gal New Build Coming Soon

09/21/2013, 09:00 PM	#6
cloak Moved On Join Date: Jul 2000 Location: Stockton, CA Posts: 14,854	IMO, a wet-dry is not necessarily the problem. It's you... Don't get me wrong, there's more efficient ways to do things, but I'm not scared of the bioballs... JMO.