Uniseals on external overflow

[girlygears13]

Hi RC!
I'm planning on doing a 40 breeder with a internal shallow overflow box and a larger external box with a Beananimal overflow. Since space int he 40B is at a premium, I'm trying to use as little of the footprint as possible. I emailed the tanks manufacturer and the bottom is tempered, so doing a standpipe is a no-go.

I am going to have to drill two holes in the back of my tank with bulkheads that will hold on the acrylic internal and external boxes. I may even add additional rubber seals to cushion the glass in case one of the boxes get bumped during maintenance. I am planning on a future larger tank, so I need to be able to remove both boxes easily to re-use this tank as a sump.

Would it be safe to use uniseals on the bottom of the external box for the overflow pipes to pass through as opposed to bulkheads? I know uniseals are supposed to be for curved surfaces, but I'd like to hear your opinions/experiences/tales of harrowing floods and angry spouses!!

[girlygears13]

Anyone?

[Reefmedic79]

It will depend on the thickness of the acrylic in the box as well. In theory I think it could work, and would be easy to test as well prior to the tank being fully installed.

You will want the holes cut that would allow the same size uniseal or bulk head or you may need to be prepared to adjust the pipe size of the overflow. Once a hole is cut, increasing the size will be nearly impossible.

[girlygears13]

Thanks! I'll order some Weld-on 4 and build the boxes. I'm trying to go through the bottom of the exterior box instead of through the back. After hearing tons of stories of leaky bulkheads, I was hoping to find a better solution.

[jimmyj7090]

Don't worry about leaky bulkheads, the stories you have heard are the exception and are almost always due to improper installation. IMO/IME you are much more likely to run into leaks with uni-seals than with bulkheads.

As for the tank, most 40 breeders do have non-tempered bottoms. If your prefered design is through the bottom, you shouldn't have much problem finding a 40 that does not have a tempered bottom. (I've drilled the bottoms of a bunch of 40b tanks that have come from the petco dollar/gallon sales).

[girlygears13]

Thanks Jimmy, but when I framed my stand I didn't take into account for the plumbing to go through the top. (Duh!) I'll try the bulkheads too, as for getting them tight, has anyone tried aluminum wrenches? They're flat and easy to get into tight spots, was thinking it would work a lot better than channel locks lol

[jimmyj7090]

You generally don't need a wrench on bulkheads. As tight as you can get them by hand is usually adequate. If any more, than only about 1/8th turn past hand tight.

If you do need / feel the need for a wrench, there are cheap stamped metal ones intended for bulkheads that can be had and should be less expensive than any real wrench.

[girlygears13]

Yeah, but anything I have an excuse to add to my toolbox is always welcome lol

[jimmyj7090]

I actually bought a socket to fit the nut on a 1" bulkhead years ago. It seemed like a good investment at the time, but looking back, not so much.

You could notch the end of a 2x4 to make a DIY tool to get that extra 1/8 turn. Otherwise anything that will reach around the nut will work.

Remember, overtightening won't make it less likely to leak, but it might either crack the bulkhead or distort the gasket causing a leak.

[Psyops]

Maybe I have this setup wrong in my head. Long day at work. If this is a temporary thing as you are going to setup a new system in the near future, can you just add the old system tube system? I don't remember what they were called but I used to use them in a hand in the back overflow system. They had a U-shaped tube that sucked in water from the DT and drained into the overflow box. I know this system had flaws but for not you don't have to drill anything. Again If I am way wrong with your setup please excuse my post.

Alex