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11/19/2013, 12:18 PM | #1 |
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Location: Atlanta
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Red slime and chemiclean
I've just about had it with this red slime.
I'm ready to give chemiclean a shot. I have a sump, with a skimmer and a chaeto filled refuge, i use RODI water for everything, underfeed the livestock, 0 nitrates, keep dialing back the lights, and still it comes back. The side of the tank does face a window, but i blocked that weeks ago. I do regular water changes, siphon the gravel, blow everything off the rocks with a turkey baster, i've even offered up a sacrifice. Just can't stop it! Will chemiclean hurt any of my corals? I have a couple feather dusters as well, plus the fish. And snails and crabs too. I have read the "lights out" thread and various links explaining what it is, and now it needs nutrients, and whatever. Anyone want to share their chemiclean experience? |
11/19/2013, 12:29 PM | #2 |
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Their are a good deal of threads with chemiclean. I would say most people (if used as the directions indicate to the T with a water change) do not have any issues. I used it because I also couldn't get rid of cyano despite constant water changes and very low nitrate/phosphate readings. I have 95% SPS and everything was fine for me... and the cyano is gone. With that said, you will probably have a lot of people join in to say "get your parameters in order and don't use chemicals as it's just a band-aid to the underlying problem". For me personally... it helped turn the tide to victory after months of doing what I was supposed to do (this was also in a 1.5 year old tank at the time). I have also had some friends use it with success. I will say though, that after chemiclean is done, you must vigilantly keep up with your water changes and keep NO3 and PO4 low, or this issue like this will arise again (HA for instance may take its place...).
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Duncan |
11/19/2013, 12:44 PM | #3 | |
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If God didn't want us to eat animals, he wouldn't have made them out of meat. Steve Current Tank Info: 180, 2-240 FOWLRs, 240 reef |
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11/19/2013, 01:05 PM | #4 |
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I would take a more holistic approach to dealing with this problem. There are a number of conditions that will cause this problem, individually/collectively, and although one may be the overriding factor, I’d approach each one as a primary, or contributing factor. Starting with using good RO/DI water, if you’re not using it, you’ll be adding the needed nutrients every time you top off, and/or do a WC.
Here is a good article worth reading: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/bluegralgae.htm The use of “Red Slime Removers”, can work in the short term, but if the issues that generated it are not resolved, it will simply keep reoccurring. I don’t like using it, and would make every effort to solve the problem by other means, as noted in the attached article. I know of a couple circumstances where someone lost their system due to a sudden die off of the red slime algae(BGA) releasing toxins into the water. |
11/19/2013, 01:23 PM | #5 |
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I have used ChemiClean quite a few times over the years and I love the stuff. I may even start drinking it. I wrote to the company to tell them it is the only product that does what it is supposed to do and not do anything else.
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I used to get shocked when I put my hand in my tank. Then the electric eel went dead. Current Tank Info: 100 gal reef set up in 1971 |
11/19/2013, 01:31 PM | #6 |
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I've used it in the past. Finding the root cause of the problem is the key to success for keeping it away.
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Adrienne The only thing to fear is fear itself....and spiders. |
11/19/2013, 04:24 PM | #7 |
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Is it mainly focused in your sandbed. If so you sand may be just to fine to siphon well. I used to have sand go in siphon the urchin poop but it would still be there. Then started doing alittle research and found out that finer sand is better to be partially replaced on a monthly basis instead of siphoning. The sand gets to a point were its just loaded. If the sand doesnt look as white as it used to its most likely the sand that needs replacing
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11/19/2013, 09:19 PM | #8 | |
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11/19/2013, 09:20 PM | #9 |
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