A newb question, can't find answers anywhere

[thatreefguy22]

Originally Posted by Merman1983

Yessir

It's all good ...wow, after a month, I got this thing pushing water through the way I wanted it.

a good morning spent, and I don't go back into work until tomorrow! yeah. successful (for now)

Thanks a bunch everyone!

[nmbeg]

I'm a late comer to this thread, seems like problem solved. Just wanted to chime in so that you understand the theory better.

There are a certain number of chambers in your system--DT plus 3 in the sump I think (it was 2 until you blocked off the bottom of the baffle, creating 3). There should only be one pump--the one in your return chamber (you have thankfully removed the one in your overflow).

All chambers are fed by gravity--overflow from DT, to sump, and over a series of baffles. The only non-gravity portion of the system is from return chamber back up to DT. That return chamber will always be the low point of the tank, and the only portion where water level changes as you add/remove water (except when that chamber is dry like the original problem you had, or if that chamber floods over like in a power loss).

That's the chamber you need to mark water level so that you can replace evaporated water, or if you set up an ATO that chamber needs the float valve.

I hope this helps clarify things.

[CoralReeForrest]

The only thing I see needing to be said is to run a power loss test. If you lose power what is left in the DT Will continue to flow to sump until the Utube fails. Make sure you have enough room in your sump for the few gallons that will drain to it. Or drill a bulkhead into the sump and install an emergency overflow. You may also want to run a Utube failure to see just how much water will make it back into the tank if that were to happen. That's usually were flooding would occur with the way your tank is set up. You may want to look into a Constant siphon overflow. They run around 100 bucks and though still risky are alot safer then a Utube.

[spider1218]

Definitely need a way to make sure you never loose siphon if the power goes out and you get the bubbles in the u tube and the pier comes back on your going to possibly overflow the DT because you will have no way to get water back into sump

[thatreefguy22]

Originally Posted by nmbeg

I'm a late comer to this thread, seems like problem solved. Just wanted to chime in so that you understand the theory better.

There are a certain number of chambers in your system--DT plus 3 in the sump I think (it was 2 until you blocked off the bottom of the baffle, creating 3). There should only be one pump--the one in your return chamber (you have thankfully removed the one in your overflow).

All chambers are fed by gravity--overflow from DT, to sump, and over a series of baffles. The only non-gravity portion of the system is from return chamber back up to DT. That return chamber will always be the low point of the tank, and the only portion where water level changes as you add/remove water (except when that chamber is dry like the original problem you had, or if that chamber floods over like in a power loss).

That's the chamber you need to mark water level so that you can replace evaporated water, or if you set up an ATO that chamber needs the float valve.

I hope this helps clarify things.

great late reply!! +1!! I totally understand it (now) at least for my system. evaporation happens a lot...I never thought I would want to top off daily...damn. I top off every other day. no later than 4 days. I'm working on a schedule for my daily/weekly tasks on my system.
It's weird, I've been having this epiphany on water chemistry/parameters and the correlation between Ca, alk, and Mg. and of course, salinity. and just have been reading up. but I have another post I made on that just last night.
this epiphany has struck me after about 3 weeks having my first 2 clownfish, that have been moved to a quickly set up QT due to white poop in the DT thus making my fast decision to move them to a QT. no external signs of stress/illness/parasites, though. please, check that thread out, it should be labeled as "QT tank, help me out please." I'd love you to follow up with me, if you can.
much appreciation man!!! thank you, a lot

[thatreefguy22]

Originally Posted by spider1218

Definitely need a way to make sure you never loose siphon if the power goes out and you get the bubbles in the u tube and the pier comes back on your going to possibly overflow the DT because you will have no way to get water back into sump

I have turned my pump off multiple of times, just to check my water level due to evaporation..and the U tube has hardly any bubbles in it. I believe I have the perfect set-up for my tank...with the exception of no protein skimmer, or good lighting. but those will come. I'm still looking up water chem. and learning my tank parameters. at the same time, looking after my 2 clownfish that may have an internal worm. which, I've been told, and looked at myself...that Prazi-pro is the med I should treat them with.

[thatreefguy22]

Originally Posted by CoralReeForrest

The only thing I see needing to be said is to run a power loss test. If you lose power what is left in the DT Will continue to flow to sump until the Utube fails. Make sure you have enough room in your sump for the few gallons that will drain to it. Or drill a bulkhead into the sump and install an emergency overflow. You may also want to run a Utube failure to see just how much water will make it back into the tank if that were to happen. That's usually were flooding would occur with the way your tank is set up. You may want to look into a Constant siphon overflow. They run around 100 bucks and though still risky are alot safer then a Utube.

My U tube is fine...It should not break at all (unless it is forced. lol by pulling it out myself.). the flow is far to good. I believe I've found the right set up. for now, as I plan on adding a DIY carbon reactor, and buy a protein skimmer.