Help SPS are Dying...Please Help.

jasonbrew · 12/13/2013, 06:22 PM

Here is where I would like your help. I know that what I did was not good. I just need to know what my best options are to save these corals.

Here is what I did. I had a 65 gallon that all these were in and doing well for 1 year. I had 1 radian and some mp 10s. I have an apex and my parameters were always spot on. 5 Months ago, I started curing hrs dry pukani in a trashcan in my garage. I had temp, flow, and API quick start and Seachems Stability going into curing this rock.

2 Months ago I started a 180 gallon with a 50 gallon sump. I used 1/2 the rock. By all the testing it showed to fully cycle in almost a week. I ramped 3 radians up to 20% power. I have 2 mp 40s. API quick start and Stability were used here also. And Apex Controller to the Max. In the past I have had a prob with my tank being "too clean."

My SPS coral is dying/bleaching my zoos are shrunk back, my LPS seem a little shrunk. I am going to attach some pictures. I want to save them. I have an 8 gal I can setup with new water until they restore. I have dipped them in Coral RX and Seachems Coral Dip. Im really not sure what to do. I have some nice SPS frags that are half bleached. Most is ORA. Please Help.

Currently:
salinity 33ppt
temp 78
ph 8.2
0 nitrite, nitrates, & amonia
.04 phosphates (probably pukani)
alk 11
mag 1240
calc 440

water change 2 weeks ago: 25 gallon

jasonbrew · 12/13/2013, 06:26 PM

blue cespitularia

digitata

Jerzey · 12/13/2013, 06:30 PM

possibly the intensity of your light fixture.... try raising it or dimming it back a bit.... alk is a bit high 8-8.5 i find is perfect

jasonbrew · 12/13/2013, 06:37 PM

jasonbrew · 12/13/2013, 06:40 PM

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1386981600.346734.jpg ImageUploadedByTapatalk1386981615.582595.jpg

jasonbrew · 12/13/2013, 06:45 PM

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1386981847.733703.jpg
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1386981859.351169.jpg
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1386981897.037934.jpg
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1386981909.342606.jpg
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1386981920.272992.jpg

pictures were all taken at the same time. the sps is in my sump

jasonbrew · 12/13/2013, 06:48 PM

I also didn't put live stock in the tank for 1 month.

jinks · 12/13/2013, 07:03 PM

It's hard to say whats causing the problem. Lights maybe? Either way dipping them and throwing them all over the bottom of a sump won't help. Is the flesh losing color or melting? Most dips are more for parasites then stress/bad water.

Jerzey · 12/13/2013, 07:05 PM

looks like bleaching from to much light IMO but i agree throwing them in your sump when there half gone definitely isn't helping there is a point of no return ..... sorry man that truly sucks

sh0ck · 12/13/2013, 07:53 PM

If your old tank was around 8KH(u did not mentioned value) and u just drop them in 11KH they will not like it at first.
Was your full light duration same for both old and new tank?
They seems to be kind of burned, but putting them in sump with no light will definitely not help them to regain strength.
Maybe set shorter full power duration on 4-5 hours and put them lower in tank.

jasonbrew · 12/13/2013, 08:16 PM

sounds great, I'll move them back up.

questions:
1) if I frag the tips that aren't bleached yet and transfer to a healthier tank could it save it?
2) have any of you seen these come back in similar condition?
3) should I lower mp40 pump flow?
4) I am running carbon and phosban, should I change anything?
5) I am thinking low light intensity and range closer to 10k and not 20k, thoughts?
6) should I try to spot feed with oyster feast?

thanks guys.

jinks · 12/14/2013, 01:01 AM

1)I would only frag them to try and save part if the flesh is actually starting to melt off not just bleaching. In that case clipping the health part could save some of it. Dont do this if its just bleaching.
2) if its just light shock then yes lots come back from it.
3) I would not worry about this just dont put the LPS right in the flow.
4)I would pull the carbon out unless its in there for a specific reason, but thats just me.
5) At this point the K is not going to matter. Normal i would try and match it as best you can to the old tank and then shift it slowly to where you want it. Just lower the intensity of the lights and work it up over time.
6) I cant imagine that they are going to have much polyp extension when you put them back so i dont really see the point in this. Then again i dont feed my sps anyways.

Just get them back in and keep the lights low. Work it back up over time. Dips are more for when you add new coral not treating sick. It is just adding stress to them. They might be lost by now but no point in giving up till they are gone.

Sk8r · 12/14/2013, 01:09 AM

I agree: use blocks or something to raise the light kit another couple of inches, and reduce the photoperiod. When breaking in new lights, best do 8 hrs actinic light, maybe an hour of brilliant daylight, and every couple of days add another hour of daylight until you're up to normal.
Also doublecheck your thermometers: a wrong one can create a world of hurt.

jasonbrew · 12/14/2013, 07:03 PM

I have done everything as suggested. I am still not sure the reason. I have attached a picture of the acro. does it look like the acro is bleached or "melting" to you guys?ImageUploadedByTapatalk1387069381.546304.jpg ImageUploadedByTapatalk1387069420.732070.jpg

MondoBongo · 12/15/2013, 10:00 AM

Your salinity is a bit low IMHO, but shouldn't be too big a deal.

Is your alk stable? I have seen similar bleaching in my across in my QT tank when the alk would drop.

12/13/2013, 06:22 PM	#1
jasonbrew Registered Member Join Date: May 2013 Posts: 16	Help SPS are Dying...Please Help. Here is where I would like your help. I know that what I did was not good. I just need to know what my best options are to save these corals. Here is what I did. I had a 65 gallon that all these were in and doing well for 1 year. I had 1 radian and some mp 10s. I have an apex and my parameters were always spot on. 5 Months ago, I started curing hrs dry pukani in a trashcan in my garage. I had temp, flow, and API quick start and Seachems Stability going into curing this rock. 2 Months ago I started a 180 gallon with a 50 gallon sump. I used 1/2 the rock. By all the testing it showed to fully cycle in almost a week. I ramped 3 radians up to 20% power. I have 2 mp 40s. API quick start and Stability were used here also. And Apex Controller to the Max. In the past I have had a prob with my tank being "too clean." My SPS coral is dying/bleaching my zoos are shrunk back, my LPS seem a little shrunk. I am going to attach some pictures. I want to save them. I have an 8 gal I can setup with new water until they restore. I have dipped them in Coral RX and Seachems Coral Dip. Im really not sure what to do. I have some nice SPS frags that are half bleached. Most is ORA. Please Help. Currently: salinity 33ppt temp 78 ph 8.2 0 nitrite, nitrates, & amonia .04 phosphates (probably pukani) alk 11 mag 1240 calc 440 water change 2 weeks ago: 25 gallon

12/13/2013, 06:26 PM	#2
jasonbrew Registered Member Join Date: May 2013 Posts: 16	blue cespitularia digitata Last edited by Dino; 12/14/2013 at 05:33 AM.

12/13/2013, 06:30 PM	#3
Jerzey Registered Member Join Date: Jun 2013 Location: Cape may, New jersey Posts: 375	possibly the intensity of your light fixture.... try raising it or dimming it back a bit.... alk is a bit high 8-8.5 i find is perfect __________________ 54g corner BB, 30g acrylic sump, SRO 1000 int skimmer, Jebao dual controller WP25+(2)WP10, dim4, DIY (142w) cree led(142w)/t5(96w) hybrid fixture, refugium, media reactor, ATO, 70lbsLR, mixed reef

12/13/2013, 06:37 PM	#4
jasonbrew Registered Member Join Date: May 2013 Posts: 16	Last edited by Dino; 12/14/2013 at 05:33 AM.

12/13/2013, 06:40 PM	#5
jasonbrew Registered Member Join Date: May 2013 Posts: 16	ImageUploadedByTapatalk1386981600.346734.jpg ImageUploadedByTapatalk1386981615.582595.jpg Last edited by Dino; 12/14/2013 at 05:33 AM.

12/13/2013, 06:45 PM	#6
jasonbrew Registered Member Join Date: May 2013 Posts: 16	ImageUploadedByTapatalk1386981847.733703.jpg ImageUploadedByTapatalk1386981859.351169.jpg ImageUploadedByTapatalk1386981897.037934.jpg ImageUploadedByTapatalk1386981909.342606.jpg ImageUploadedByTapatalk1386981920.272992.jpg pictures were all taken at the same time. the sps is in my sump Last edited by Dino; 12/14/2013 at 05:33 AM.

12/13/2013, 06:48 PM	#7
jasonbrew Registered Member Join Date: May 2013 Posts: 16	I also didn't put live stock in the tank for 1 month.

12/13/2013, 07:03 PM	#8
jinks Registered Member Join Date: May 2010 Posts: 581	It's hard to say whats causing the problem. Lights maybe? Either way dipping them and throwing them all over the bottom of a sump won't help. Is the flesh losing color or melting? Most dips are more for parasites then stress/bad water.

12/13/2013, 07:05 PM	#9
Jerzey Registered Member Join Date: Jun 2013 Location: Cape may, New jersey Posts: 375	looks like bleaching from to much light IMO but i agree throwing them in your sump when there half gone definitely isn't helping there is a point of no return ..... sorry man that truly sucks __________________ 54g corner BB, 30g acrylic sump, SRO 1000 int skimmer, Jebao dual controller WP25+(2)WP10, dim4, DIY (142w) cree led(142w)/t5(96w) hybrid fixture, refugium, media reactor, ATO, 70lbsLR, mixed reef

12/13/2013, 07:53 PM	#10
sh0ck Registered Member Join Date: Jun 2013 Posts: 229	If your old tank was around 8KH(u did not mentioned value) and u just drop them in 11KH they will not like it at first. Was your full light duration same for both old and new tank? They seems to be kind of burned, but putting them in sump with no light will definitely not help them to regain strength. Maybe set shorter full power duration on 4-5 hours and put them lower in tank.

12/13/2013, 08:16 PM	#11
jasonbrew Registered Member Join Date: May 2013 Posts: 16	sounds great, I'll move them back up. questions: 1) if I frag the tips that aren't bleached yet and transfer to a healthier tank could it save it? 2) have any of you seen these come back in similar condition? 3) should I lower mp40 pump flow? 4) I am running carbon and phosban, should I change anything? 5) I am thinking low light intensity and range closer to 10k and not 20k, thoughts? 6) should I try to spot feed with oyster feast? thanks guys.

12/14/2013, 01:01 AM	#12
jinks Registered Member Join Date: May 2010 Posts: 581	1)I would only frag them to try and save part if the flesh is actually starting to melt off not just bleaching. In that case clipping the health part could save some of it. Dont do this if its just bleaching. 2) if its just light shock then yes lots come back from it. 3) I would not worry about this just dont put the LPS right in the flow. 4)I would pull the carbon out unless its in there for a specific reason, but thats just me. 5) At this point the K is not going to matter. Normal i would try and match it as best you can to the old tank and then shift it slowly to where you want it. Just lower the intensity of the lights and work it up over time. 6) I cant imagine that they are going to have much polyp extension when you put them back so i dont really see the point in this. Then again i dont feed my sps anyways. Just get them back in and keep the lights low. Work it back up over time. Dips are more for when you add new coral not treating sick. It is just adding stress to them. They might be lost by now but no point in giving up till they are gone.

12/14/2013, 01:09 AM	#13
Sk8r RC Mod Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: Spokane WA Posts: 34,628 Blog Entries: 55	I agree: use blocks or something to raise the light kit another couple of inches, and reduce the photoperiod. When breaking in new lights, best do 8 hrs actinic light, maybe an hour of brilliant daylight, and every couple of days add another hour of daylight until you're up to normal. Also doublecheck your thermometers: a wrong one can create a world of hurt. __________________ Sk8r Salinity 1.024-6; alkalinity 8.3-9.3 on KH scale; calcium 420; magnesium 1300, temp 78-80, nitrate .2. Ammonia 0. No filters: lps tank. Alk and cal won't rise if mg is low. Current Tank Info: 105g AquaVim wedge, yellow tang, sailfin blenny,royal gramma, ocellaris clown pair, yellow watchman, 100 microceriths, 25 tiny hermits, a 4" conch, 1" nassarius, recovering from 2 year hiatus with daily water change of 10%.

12/14/2013, 07:03 PM	#14
jasonbrew Registered Member Join Date: May 2013 Posts: 16	I have done everything as suggested. I am still not sure the reason. I have attached a picture of the acro. does it look like the acro is bleached or "melting" to you guys?ImageUploadedByTapatalk1387069381.546304.jpg ImageUploadedByTapatalk1387069420.732070.jpg

12/15/2013, 10:00 AM	#15
MondoBongo Obligate Feeder Obsessed Join Date: Oct 2012 Location: Pittsburgh, PA Posts: 4,061	Your salinity is a bit low IMHO, but shouldn't be too big a deal. Is your alk stable? I have seen similar bleaching in my across in my QT tank when the alk would drop. __________________ [Citation Needed] "You don't use science to show that you're right, you use science to become right" - xkcd Current Tank Info: A rectangular shaped money pit.