LED driver question.

butcher333 · 12/13/2013, 01:37 PM

I recently purchased a driver from RL model: LD-CU7036-18D. Which says 0-10v dimmable. 30-700ma dimmable. 25watt max with electronic potentiometer. I bought to run 10 Philips rebel red rated at 700ma max current. Which I intended to run lower than 700ma by dimming. When I looked up the part number online I read what I interpreted to mean that this is a constant current driver and that it uses PWM to dim. I'm confused now. This is for my fuge. Is running them at there max current just fine? Am I just confused about this driver?All the other arrays I've done are running under their max current so wasn't something I concerned myself about. I think I might need to take a class so I can have a better understanding of all this V, ma, watts stuff. Thanks for any advice.

butcher333 · 12/13/2013, 05:15 PM

Nothing?

Jerzey · 12/13/2013, 05:45 PM

normally you just adjust the max current in the driver to where you want it at and that's it your good....unless it's consent current whitch that driver isnt

pwreef · 12/13/2013, 08:14 PM

If u did not attach anything to the dim ports then you are most likely running at 100%. You need a 0-10 V power source that will control the dimming. Whoever sold that to you should probably sell the dimmer as well or you can use a 10v power brick with potentiometer.

zachts · 12/13/2013, 08:26 PM

For your fuge max power as long as it is under 700mA is just fine, the more light the better, it will grow your algea faster.

Personally those type drivers make me very nervous as they are incredibly cheap. I looked it up as I'd not heard of that one and it is only IP20 rated meaning if you drip a little watter on it look out.......

I tend to lean toward meanwell or other drivers that are IP68 rated for use under a tank where it's likely they will get wet. IP 68 means they are essentially water proof........aside from the wire connections you have to make.

IP 66 or IP 67 are good also as long as not actually dunked under water.

Or just locate it away from chance of splashing water.

butcher333 · 12/13/2013, 09:13 PM

Here is a picture of the driver. It came with a potentiometer on it. Where would I add voltage?

butcher333 · 12/13/2013, 09:24 PM

Here is a picture of the driver from RapidLED. It came with the potentiometer already on it. Where would I supply the voltage?

http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/pi...991286&thumb=1

butcher333 · 12/13/2013, 09:27 PM

[IMG]

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pwreef · 12/14/2013, 07:13 AM

Oh, you got me confused then. If it's from Rapid LED it clearly already has everything you need. Just turn the potentiometer and it will dim. If it's not working call them and send it back.

Jerzey · 12/21/2013, 09:33 PM

exatly... i'm using that exact driver on my violet channel as it drives your leds at 700 ma constant... they sell that driver with or without the potentiometer... yours has the potentiometer already wired up but if you decide to get an light controller for auto dimming just open your driver up and disconnect the potentiometer wires and run new wire to the controller.... now your kind of limited to what kind of light controller you can use as that's an analog driver not pwm and for some reason there's more controllers available for pwm driver's but i have analog 0-10 v dimming driver's and been using dim4 for sunrise/sunset dimming and you can connect up to 4 channels.. it's been running flawless

12/13/2013, 01:37 PM	#1
butcher333 Registered Member Join Date: Jun 2010 Posts: 28	LED driver question. I recently purchased a driver from RL model: LD-CU7036-18D. Which says 0-10v dimmable. 30-700ma dimmable. 25watt max with electronic potentiometer. I bought to run 10 Philips rebel red rated at 700ma max current. Which I intended to run lower than 700ma by dimming. When I looked up the part number online I read what I interpreted to mean that this is a constant current driver and that it uses PWM to dim. I'm confused now. This is for my fuge. Is running them at there max current just fine? Am I just confused about this driver?All the other arrays I've done are running under their max current so wasn't something I concerned myself about. I think I might need to take a class so I can have a better understanding of all this V, ma, watts stuff. Thanks for any advice.

12/13/2013, 05:45 PM	#3
Jerzey Registered Member Join Date: Jun 2013 Location: Cape may, New jersey Posts: 375	normally you just adjust the max current in the driver to where you want it at and that's it your good....unless it's consent current whitch that driver isnt __________________ 54g corner BB, 30g acrylic sump, SRO 1000 int skimmer, Jebao dual controller WP25+(2)WP10, dim4, DIY (142w) cree led(142w)/t5(96w) hybrid fixture, refugium, media reactor, ATO, 70lbsLR, mixed reef Last edited by Jerzey; 12/13/2013 at 05:50 PM.

12/13/2013, 08:14 PM	#4
pwreef Registered Member Join Date: May 2011 Location: New York Posts: 585	If u did not attach anything to the dim ports then you are most likely running at 100%. You need a 0-10 V power source that will control the dimming. Whoever sold that to you should probably sell the dimmer as well or you can use a 10v power brick with potentiometer. __________________ Since May 2011: OLD: 57G rimless NOW: ELOS 120, DIY LED using reefll.com 12-up boards

12/13/2013, 09:27 PM	#8
butcher333 Registered Member Join Date: Jun 2010 Posts: 28	[IMG][/IMG]

12/14/2013, 07:13 AM	#9
pwreef Registered Member Join Date: May 2011 Location: New York Posts: 585	Oh, you got me confused then. If it's from Rapid LED it clearly already has everything you need. Just turn the potentiometer and it will dim. If it's not working call them and send it back. __________________ Since May 2011: OLD: 57G rimless NOW: ELOS 120, DIY LED using reefll.com 12-up boards

12/13/2013, 05:15 PM	#2
butcher333 Registered Member Join Date: Jun 2010 Posts: 28	Nothing?

12/13/2013, 08:26 PM	#5
zachts Registered Member Join Date: Mar 2005 Location: St. Louis, MO. Posts: 3,259	For your fuge max power as long as it is under 700mA is just fine, the more light the better, it will grow your algea faster. Personally those type drivers make me very nervous as they are incredibly cheap. I looked it up as I'd not heard of that one and it is only IP20 rated meaning if you drip a little watter on it look out....... I tend to lean toward meanwell or other drivers that are IP68 rated for use under a tank where it's likely they will get wet. IP 68 means they are essentially water proof........aside from the wire connections you have to make. IP 66 or IP 67 are good also as long as not actually dunked under water. Or just locate it away from chance of splashing water.

12/13/2013, 09:13 PM	#6
butcher333 Registered Member Join Date: Jun 2010 Posts: 28	Here is a picture of the driver. It came with a potentiometer on it. Where would I add voltage?

12/13/2013, 09:24 PM	#7
butcher333 Registered Member Join Date: Jun 2010 Posts: 28	Here is a picture of the driver from RapidLED. It came with the potentiometer already on it. Where would I supply the voltage? http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/pi...991286&thumb=1

12/21/2013, 09:33 PM	#10
Jerzey Registered Member Join Date: Jun 2013 Location: Cape may, New jersey Posts: 375	exatly... i'm using that exact driver on my violet channel as it drives your leds at 700 ma constant... they sell that driver with or without the potentiometer... yours has the potentiometer already wired up but if you decide to get an light controller for auto dimming just open your driver up and disconnect the potentiometer wires and run new wire to the controller.... now your kind of limited to what kind of light controller you can use as that's an analog driver not pwm and for some reason there's more controllers available for pwm driver's but i have analog 0-10 v dimming driver's and been using dim4 for sunrise/sunset dimming and you can connect up to 4 channels.. it's been running flawless __________________ 54g corner BB, 30g acrylic sump, SRO 1000 int skimmer, Jebao dual controller WP25+(2)WP10, dim4, DIY (142w) cree led(142w)/t5(96w) hybrid fixture, refugium, media reactor, ATO, 70lbsLR, mixed reef