skimmer priming

[grussell]

Hi,

So I've got a Reef Octopus BH-90 skimmer installed on my new(and first) build(75 Gallon). I've got the tank finally filled with RO/DI. I want to start the skimmer and let it run, check for leaks etc. This is my first skimmer. How, exactly, does one prime it when you first start it? It is brand new. What is the process I should use to break it in? Tank just has RO/DI--no salt yet. I've been wanting to check all the plumbing first for leaks before adding the salt.
I understand the basics of how a skimmer works, but the details elude me, and the instructions for this thing are not very helpful(figured out how to assemble it by watching a video on youtube...) Also, what levels should I set the intake and output tubes to? to the water level? Thanks!

Grussell............

[thegrun]

Just plug it in! There isn't anything in the water for the skimmer to skim now, but simply plug it in to see it run. You do not need to prime it. For it to break-in you are going to need it to be running in saltwater with your live rock generating some waste.

[Blown 346]

Agreed. During break in, make sure to set the water level in the skimmer at its lowest point so you dont oveflow it. Break in normally takes a week or so for the skimmer to slime up.

[slowjazz]

Originally Posted by thegrun

Just plug it in! There isn't anything in the water for the skimmer to skim now, but simply plug it in to see it run. You do not need to prime it. For it to break-in you are going to need it to be running in saltwater with your live rock generating some waste.

Actually the hob's are a little different from in sump skimmers. Because they are not sitting in the water, you need to dump water into the skimmer and then turn it on. I had a eshopps hob and the thing was a pain after i would clean it. I would always have to dump water into it and then close off the air feed until it started to bubble.

I have since upgraded my tank from a 55 to a 90 with a sump. The in-sump reef octopus blows away the eshopps hob.

[thegrun]

Opps! It would help if I read the post! Good advice Slow!

[grussell]

Thanks, so the cryptic directions that came with it did say to close off the air tube when starting it. What does that actually do? How long until you open it back up? I'm also confused as to why there are two air inlets--one the flexible tubing with a silencer that I assume is where the bubbles come from, but also this air valve that is adjustable. What does each one do? Sorry if I seem clueless

Grussell..........

[thegrun]

The air valve that you start in the closed position is where air is drawn into the skimmer. You start with it closed so the skimmer doesn't produce a huge amount of bubbles right away (in the first 10 seconds). Start to open up the air valve right away, but slowly to prevent a sudden rush of bubbles into the collection cup. I haven't used your particular skimmer, but for most skimmers you try to adjust the foam to where the top of the main boil of water is about midway up the collection tube in the cup. I would wait to start it until you have saltwater and rock in the system. I hope that helps a little.
-Mike

[grussell]

Thanks, I'm mostly planning to run it just to make sure I assembled it right and it doesn't leak. I won't run it consistently until I have the salt and the rocks. If the air valve is where the air comes in for the bubbles, what is the flexible tube with the silencer for?

grussell...........

[slowjazz]

Originally Posted by grussell

Thanks, I'm mostly planning to run it just to make sure I assembled it right and it doesn't leak. I won't run it consistently until I have the salt and the rocks. If the air valve is where the air comes in for the bubbles, what is the flexible tube with the silencer for?

grussell...........

Like I said.. the hob's are different. Having used both, I think they can't compare to the in-sump models. Example - my in-sump is 'rated' about the same as the eshopps I had, yet it is twice the size and pulls in alot more then the eshopps ever did.

The reason for closing the air tube is actually not for letting bubbles form. It is to prime the skimmer by letting more water enter the tube and start the suction from your tank. You have to remember that the tube is outside the tank.
It is the same concept when you put a tube into your tank to drain the water. When you first put the tube in, nothing drains out until you start a suction.

to prime it - Fill the main tube about 1/2 or less then half with water. Put the collection cup on. Hold the air tube that comes from the motor and start the unit. You should see it slowly fill up with water. at some point it will 'burp'. (water will drop and then go back up) At that point you let go and it will start to bubble.
The problem I always had with the eshopps was that it would either fill very slow or not start a suction. At that point I would have to turn it off, drain the water and start over. (you can't put too much water in there because it needs to suck some water in to start up)

the other tube your talking about - does it come off the pipe where the water goes back out to the tank? (The one on the motor is for the air going into the tube)

[grussell]

Hi,

Yes, the other tube is solid plastic. By rotatitng it you can open and close it. It comes off the return section. This is the only adjustable element on the skimmer. The flexible tube is the one that comes off the pump. I assumed this was where the air came in for the bubbles but then what is the solid plastic one off the return tube for, and how is it that it is what adjusts the skimmer

[slowjazz]

Originally Posted by grussell

Hi,

Yes, the other tube is solid plastic. By rotatitng it you can open and close it. It comes off the return section. This is the only adjustable element on the skimmer. The flexible tube is the one that comes off the pump. I assumed this was where the air came in for the bubbles but then what is the solid plastic one off the return tube for, and how is it that it is what adjusts the skimmer

There are two ways you can adjust a skimmer -

1) flexible tube off the motor - controls the air flow into the skimmer. usually you just leave it alone. Some skimmers come with a small adjustable clamp to allow you to pinch off the tube and thus cut the air.

2) On the return tube - you adjust the water level inside the skimmer. If you pull that up and off (if you can), you will notice a simple hole near the bottom. When the hole is lined up it is called open. (ie: nothing is stopping the water from coming out of the skimmer) As you turn the tube, you are moving the hole away from the hole where the water comes out, thus blocking it. (called closed)
The less water you allow out, the more water stays in the skimmer. This will raise the level in the skimmer, which usually give you more of a 'wet' skim. (water is closer to the neck/cup, so more water comes up with the bubbles)

Most of the time and during breakin you leave it all open. When people 'tune' it they adjust the water level up or down to try to get more skim to the cup.

Example - if the level is too low, then it may take a very long time to get any skim into the cup. (you would notice more skim on the walls of the skimmer)

Its all about sizing correctly for your tank/load. You skimmer should idle now and then. (ie: it has removed enough junk from the water)
If you always see it running and dumping tons of skim, then it prob. is under sized. If it kicks in now and then, but mostly just makes bubbles then you went over.

Which leads to - 'Why not buy the biggest skimmer you can?' Simple - your tank is a big eco system. Everything you can and can't see needs food. If you go way to high you are taking too much out of the water which will starve the lower part of the food chain, which will starve each thing above it.

[Dozer1one]

I too did not read everything here...... The grun lol.... But be sure to run the skimmer in some vinegar and water solution to get any factory oils and crud out before using it on your tank

[shifty51008]

just remember if you only have rodi water going through the skimmer it won't make the fine bubbles your used to seeing on skimmers, once you add your salt then you will get the fine bubbles

[Mattewell]

^ What he said. Also forget any tuning or even trying to get it to run correctly without running it in salt water. The skimmer will act drastically different in salt water.

[sponger0]

Basic understanding of a skimmer 101:

They will only function properly in saltwater. Running in fresh wont create the right type of bubbles needed to remove waste.

Second, they work by creating bubble then suspends dissolved nutrients form the water and fills the cup

They have a break in period of usually only a few days with Reef Octopus skimmers. RO HOB skimmers are great.

And you wont get any skimmate unless there is a bioload ie fish.

And speaking rating, the BH90 is rated for 100 gallons but with HOB skimmers they should be rated half that. So this skimmer is best on a tank no larger than 50 gallons.

[slowjazz]

Originally Posted by sponger0

Basic understanding of a skimmer 101:

They will only function properly in saltwater. Running in fresh wont create the right type of bubbles needed to remove waste.

Second, they work by creating bubble then suspends dissolved nutrients form the water and fills the cup

They have a break in period of usually only a few days with Reef Octopus skimmers. RO HOB skimmers are great.

And you wont get any skimmate unless there is a bioload ie fish.

And speaking rating, the BH90 is rated for 100 gallons but with HOB skimmers they should be rated half that. So this skimmer is best on a tank no larger than 50 gallons.

Ratings are very hard to go by. Some of the better skimmer companies are finally putting a true number on the box.
Every tank is different. You and I could have the same 100 gal tank and same skimmer, but maybe I have lion fish and puffer thrown in the mix. (they are pigs ) My bio load could be way higher then yours which could mean I need a higher skimmer.

best thing to do is ask here, but keep in mind that you need to give your tank size as well as what you have in it. (so people know your bio load)

[grussell]

Thanks y'all. I actually had a discussion on another board before getting this skimmer. It was recommended for my 75. Nonetheless the proof will be in the pudding when I have a bio load. I fired it up last night and it worked, and the adjustments made sense and it didn't blow up. So I'm happy at the moment. Once I get my Brs reactor to stop leaking I'll add the salt and then get the rocks and then it will get broken in....

[slowjazz]

Originally Posted by grussell

Thanks y'all. I actually had a discussion on another board before getting this skimmer. It was recommended for my 75. Nonetheless the proof will be in the pudding when I have a bio load. I fired it up last night and it worked, and the adjustments made sense and it didn't blow up. So I'm happy at the moment. Once I get my Brs reactor to stop leaking I'll add the salt and then get the rocks and then it will get broken in....

btw.....
you should turn the skimmer off during your tank cycle. You need to let all the bacteria and stuff take off. the skimmer will just make your cycle take longer.