420 calcium; 8.3 alkalinity; 1200 magnesium - Page 2

snorvich · 03/03/2014, 05:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by davocean

That is my preferred target as well, sometimes this requires the add of mag to some salt mixes, and even the same brand of salt mix can vary from one batch to the other.
I like to buy salt mix in bulk, the 200g box, and then I test that new batch of salt to see where it may need adjustment.
reefcrystals has been pretty consistent for me.
Also I use Tech M when dosing mag, that is the only brand that I know of that also helps rid bryopsis if there is ever an issue.
An old reefer friend used to say all you had to really keep your eye on was what he called "The big Mac" - Mag alk and Calcium.

I agree. But testing what you are getting is a good start to managing what you are mixing.

davocean · 03/03/2014, 05:58 PM

Agree, especially for those who are new and or new systems, test everything you can.
As it matures and you can relax on some things, but the big MAC usually becomes your main focus, that and keeping phos down.

Sk8r · 03/04/2014, 10:41 AM

There was a question as to why I said 1200, and maintain 1300 myself. 1200 is the minimum reading. I maintain at 1300 because it gives me leeway before the system goes out of balance. I run kalk (which requires the balance be established) in a 32 gallon barrel of fresh water (my ATO reservoir) ---and as it hits the tank in regular topoff, it supplies the calcium part of the equation and automatically feeds my corals. As long as that magnesium level holds up (and 1300 gives it quite a bit of wiggle room without being excessive, because magnesium is used very slowly compared to calcium) ---I can leave town for an entire month and trust my corals are being fed and my tank is stable, given my rate of evaporation.

This is a coral-care method called 'kalk', driven not by a reactor, but simply by dumping kalk into the ATO reservoir: it can't 'set' the balance, because it's just calcium; but it is real effective (and cheap!) and pretty safe. You can't OD it unless you also OD the fresh water, because only the 'right' amount can dissolve in fresh water --- and even if you do have a topoff accident---it' still safe. I've goofed so badly I've turned my tank milk white and never lost a specimen.

03/03/2014, 05:58 PM	#27
davocean Registered Member Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: San Diego, CA Posts: 14,655	Agree, especially for those who are new and or new systems, test everything you can. As it matures and you can relax on some things, but the big MAC usually becomes your main focus, that and keeping phos down. __________________ There's a fine line between owning your tank and your tank owning you! Current Tank Info: SCA 120g RR Starfire, Tunze silence 1073.02 return, 40g sump w/ fuge, SWC Extreme 160 cone skimmer,Geismann reflexx 4xT5, 2x Panorama Pro LED strips, Vortech MP40QD

03/04/2014, 10:41 AM	#28
Sk8r RC Mod Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: Spokane WA Posts: 34,628 Blog Entries: 55	There was a question as to why I said 1200, and maintain 1300 myself. 1200 is the minimum reading. I maintain at 1300 because it gives me leeway before the system goes out of balance. I run kalk (which requires the balance be established) in a 32 gallon barrel of fresh water (my ATO reservoir) ---and as it hits the tank in regular topoff, it supplies the calcium part of the equation and automatically feeds my corals. As long as that magnesium level holds up (and 1300 gives it quite a bit of wiggle room without being excessive, because magnesium is used very slowly compared to calcium) ---I can leave town for an entire month and trust my corals are being fed and my tank is stable, given my rate of evaporation. This is a coral-care method called 'kalk', driven not by a reactor, but simply by dumping kalk into the ATO reservoir: it can't 'set' the balance, because it's just calcium; but it is real effective (and cheap!) and pretty safe. You can't OD it unless you also OD the fresh water, because only the 'right' amount can dissolve in fresh water --- and even if you do have a topoff accident---it' still safe. I've goofed so badly I've turned my tank milk white and never lost a specimen. __________________ Sk8r Salinity 1.024-6; alkalinity 8.3-9.3 on KH scale; calcium 420; magnesium 1300, temp 78-80, nitrate .2. Ammonia 0. No filters: lps tank. Alk and cal won't rise if mg is low. Current Tank Info: 105g AquaVim wedge, yellow tang, sailfin blenny,royal gramma, ocellaris clown pair, yellow watchman, 100 microceriths, 25 tiny hermits, a 4" conch, 1" nassarius, recovering from 2 year hiatus with daily water change of 10%.