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04/07/2014, 12:48 AM | #1 |
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Superglue or Epoxy to glue corals?
Hi,
I just got my first set of coral frags and now want to get rid of the ugly frag plugs... My LR is all set underwater and can't be removed. I was wondering of the best way to remove the plugs and mount the coral (they're tiny ones... $10) I looked around and saw many using Two Little Fishies' AquaStik or the CorAffix (http://amzn.com/B001N2XJ5W). Was wondering if the CorAffix would do the job (since mine are small) or if I could use standard Cyanoacrylate Super Glue? Like these... http://amzn.com/B004TWGPSG http://amzn.com/B00207A0Z6 Also any other tips would be helpful. Thanks |
04/07/2014, 02:54 AM | #2 |
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What type of coral are they? I use different methods for different types. For some softies I remove them from the plug and use just regular superglue gel. Sometimes I trim the plug down to the size of the base of the coral but dont remove the coral and use superglue gel or JB Waterweld. For stuff like Acros that needs to stand up and take strong current I cut the plug off, dry the base of the coral, apply superglue gel to the coral, then put a little ball of Waterweld on the base over the superglue, then put more superglue gel on the Waterweld, and then stick it in a hole in the rock.
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04/07/2014, 03:04 AM | #3 |
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both gel and epoxy work fine. if you go with superglue, make sure it is gel, or else it just cures in strands once exposed to water.
i use water weld as it is more accesable and i dont miind the white color, as it covers with coraline adn coral fairly quickly, when i have a larger piece to bind, as it proves to be a bit hard to use on real small plugs or pieces of rocks. The gel works great for small plugs and rocks and mashes into the rockwork real nicely. Another thing to keep in mind is that the epoxy can be used to leave a form behind that many standard plugs can fit onto which is nice for light acclimation. i use a few different spots in my tank to move my corals slowly up over time, just supergluing them to the existing epoxy forms. I later break them off, somewhat easily, and reglue higher up. you can get standard cyanoacrylate at walmart, but the coraffix is cheaper and works better IMO. It's worth ordering. but i still keep a couple of the .07 ounce gel glues in a drawer nearby just in case.
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R54 Current Tank Info: 36 x 36 x 25 Cube, mixed reef, A360WE x 3, A350N x 1, 40GB sump, RDSB, Remote LR Cryptic, 2 WP-40's, ummm.... |
04/07/2014, 07:47 AM | #4 |
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Either will work. Just use a thin bladed flat head screwdriver or a putty knife to get between the coral and the plug and use a twisting or rocking motion and they should pop right off. If they are an encrusting coral and they have started to encrust over the plug you can damage the coral. You will have to decide if the risk is worth it for each piece. Some corals like ricordias produce a slime coat that the glue won't bond to as well so if you have a real slimey coral that is already attached to a plug it may be best to leave it.
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“In wine there is wisdom; in beer there is freedom, in water there is bacteria.” - Benjamin Franklin Current Tank Info: 90 gallon reef. Biocube 29 lionfish tank. Mantis tank. |
04/07/2014, 08:09 AM | #5 |
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Super glue gel is my favorite.
It stays where you put it, and dries quickly.
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In all that I endure, of one thing I am sure. Knowledge and reason, change like the season. A jester's promenade. - Kerry Livgren Current Tank Info: 180 gal reef tank with dual attached refugiums 20 long and 10 gallon. Plus 55 gallon True Percula breeding tank. |
04/07/2014, 08:57 AM | #6 |
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Thanks for the inputs everyone. I'm going to try the standard superglue for now.
My criteria is to be able to stick my coral to the rock underwater... Btw the coral is LPS. So as the process I'm first going to use a screwdriver to pop the coral from the plug (out of water), then glue the base of the coral with the gel, and take it straight underwater to where I want to stick it and hold it tight to the surface of the LR for 2min and then let go... Correct me if I'm wrong with this. |
04/07/2014, 04:17 PM | #7 |
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Can anyone confirm if the process I mentioned is right?
Thanks |
04/07/2014, 05:03 PM | #8 |
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That's how I do it. Sometimes the bond is hard to make. I don't know why but it may take two or three times to get it to stick to the rock under water. If it doesn't stick just look at where the imprints of the rock on the glue are and put more there. Also it will move a bit with pressure after it is on the rock until the glue is set completely. Afterward if you want to move it you can pop the coral off with a little pressure.
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“In wine there is wisdom; in beer there is freedom, in water there is bacteria.” - Benjamin Franklin Current Tank Info: 90 gallon reef. Biocube 29 lionfish tank. Mantis tank. |
04/07/2014, 07:15 PM | #9 |
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Ok to use? |
04/07/2014, 07:24 PM | #10 |
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I usually dab some glue on the base and dip it In the water. And add a lil more glue to the skin created by the dipping into water. Then I place it where I want on the rock. Shouldn't take long to have it stay put.
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04/07/2014, 08:46 PM | #11 |
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super glue gel for me as well. Can be a pain sometimes because it takes a little while before it cures, so there are times when I let the frag go and it falls right off. I'm getting better at it though
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04/07/2014, 11:39 PM | #12 |
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Yeaaa, everything went well with the Loctite superglue for just $3
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04/07/2014, 11:49 PM | #13 |
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yeah, dont put the superglue tube underwater. if it is not sticking to rock, i often slide it back and forth and side to side, sometimes pull it gently away and push it back in the rock. This motion wil lhelp the glue cure faster and in the places you want it to form or stick to.
you dont have to hold it for 2 min. if you are getting, say the Loctite gel, i usually count to 20 and it is good. just keep a quick eye before pulling your hand away to ensure it is not slowly falling or moving. one other thing that is nice is that both super glue and epoxy will remove somewhat easily if you every move a piece a few times and start getting a tall build up or have a cured lump that wont fit where you want the piece to move to. it is fairly easy to pry the glue off and start over from the original frag. just be careful. i have cut myself more than once....2x with dull blades that were fairly painful. always use sharp blades.
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R54 Current Tank Info: 36 x 36 x 25 Cube, mixed reef, A360WE x 3, A350N x 1, 40GB sump, RDSB, Remote LR Cryptic, 2 WP-40's, ummm.... |
04/07/2014, 11:52 PM | #14 |
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Woo, the cuts sound scary... I just used a kitchen knife to get them off the frag plug...
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04/08/2014, 12:42 AM | #15 |
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nothing is worse than cutting yourself with an oyster shucker.....i almost always use exacto blades or box knife, but was using my paring knife on those 2.... cuts suck. Cooking for 17 years, you cut yourself, you start to get a bit too comfortable with being quick and nonchalant while using a knife. whatever. im current on my shots.....i always reccomend eye protection and gloves, but i never wear them myself.
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R54 Current Tank Info: 36 x 36 x 25 Cube, mixed reef, A360WE x 3, A350N x 1, 40GB sump, RDSB, Remote LR Cryptic, 2 WP-40's, ummm.... |
04/08/2014, 05:54 AM | #16 |
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I normally take the rock I want to glue to out of the tank and dry the spot where I want to glue the coral with a cotton towel.
Then I put a generous amount of glue on the rock and wait about 30 seconds. Then remove the frag from a bowl of tank water, dry the bottom of the frag and put a small amount of glue on the base of the frag. Stick the frag where I want it and roatate it back and forth about 45 degress to makes there is a good bond, then dip rock and coral in the bowl of tank water. I gently try to move it about every 20 seconds, when it stops moving then it goes back in my tank and the bowl of tank water goes down the drain.
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In all that I endure, of one thing I am sure. Knowledge and reason, change like the season. A jester's promenade. - Kerry Livgren Current Tank Info: 180 gal reef tank with dual attached refugiums 20 long and 10 gallon. Plus 55 gallon True Percula breeding tank. |
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