Sump bulkhead fittings questions?

inetmug · 05/02/2014, 09:02 PM

Hi all,

Question 1: my sump had a hokey plug in a hole, like a big plastic bolt. It was chewed up and looked like a souuce for leaks. I have looked all around, but I can not find any bulkhead "plugs". So I guess I can put in a standard bulkhead with a cap. Am I missing something?

Q2: In the event you need to close lots of holes in an acrylic sump, or reinforce a panel, does one just silicone in a panel, or is there a special "welding" glue for that? If so, how long till you can use the sump?

Q3: Places like Ace Hardware, or Home Depot, do not seem to sell fittings with gaskets. In my boat, I use through hulls all the time, but they are bedded in with 5200 or something like that. I am told only 100% silicone for aquariums. Can you just bed in bulkhead fittings with silicone (in this case just the sump).

bnumair · 05/02/2014, 10:07 PM

i have always put a bulkhead in and a cap to seal it up. i have seen acrylic patch on top of the hole for permanent fix as well not no personal experience with it.

Green Chromis · 05/03/2014, 09:49 AM

There are plexi glues called Weld-On or Sci-Grip that are used to glue pieces of plexi together. Home Depot sells a threaded plug you screw into threaded bulkheads or if it a slip bulkhead you could glue in a piece of PVC with a cap on it but you will need to replace the bulkhead if you ever want to use it for a return or intake.

inetmug · 05/04/2014, 08:53 AM

Got a lesson in acrylic welding yesterday from a local shop to plug a previous sump float valve. He does plastic work for me in various capabilities. It appears after some searching is the Weld-ON 3 or 4 is the trick. High VOC, like PVC glue. I learned that all PVC glue are potable in the same manner.

You use the needle bottle, run the joint, the stuff wicks in. Handle-able in one minute, in two hours you can do what you want, 24 hours full cure. In five minutes the vast majority of fuming is gone, in two hours, not issues. In 24 hours 100%. So no worries on the water/livestock.

Easy peasy, I now get how it would be easy enough to build anything. For a full sump I would use number 4, it is a slower curing and stronger connection. I would double check on a full tank however.

billdogg · 05/04/2014, 09:23 AM

#4 or #16 are the correct Weld-On's for acrylic. For something like a patch, I would go with the #16 - it is thicker, and at least IME, easier to use for things like that.

thegrun · 05/04/2014, 09:50 AM

1. I would either use an appropriate sized threaded plug (assuming the bulkhead is threaded) or remove the bulkhead and cover it with a piece of acrylic. Use Weld On #4 or #16, not silicone to attach the acrylic.
2. Use Weld On #4 or #16, not silicone to attach the acrylic.
3. Use standard PVC fittings with Teflon tape.

05/02/2014, 10:07 PM	#2
bnumair Dr. Reef at ur service Join Date: May 2009 Location: Tulsa, Ok, USA Posts: 7,751 Blog Entries: 15	i have always put a bulkhead in and a cap to seal it up. i have seen acrylic patch on top of the hole for permanent fix as well not no personal experience with it. __________________ Water Quality: NO3 0,Phos 0,Cal 440,Alk 7.5,Mag 1300 "Reef Fast, You Crash, Reef Slow, You Pass" Mike's Reef 3:16 Current Tank Info: 350g DT,95g sump, 50g Frag tank, 4800gph return 4x Sea swirls. 6x AI Vega Color. 200# Pukani rock, dual recirculating skimmer, Biopellet, GFO Carbon rx's, Cal rx. Closed loop. 1.5hp chiller, genesis renew. Apex & RKE

05/03/2014, 09:49 AM	#3
Green Chromis Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2002 Location: miami,florida Posts: 640	There are plexi glues called Weld-On or Sci-Grip that are used to glue pieces of plexi together. Home Depot sells a threaded plug you screw into threaded bulkheads or if it a slip bulkhead you could glue in a piece of PVC with a cap on it but you will need to replace the bulkhead if you ever want to use it for a return or intake. __________________ Natural Reefer Current Tank Info: 600 gallon Carribean Reef System, ETSS Protein Skimmer, 1.5HP Tradewinds Chiller, Reef Breeders Photon V2+ LED Lighting For The Refugium, Mitra LX7206 LED Lights For Display Tank

05/04/2014, 09:23 AM	#5
billdogg Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: Grove City, Ohio Posts: 10,806	#4 or #16 are the correct Weld-On's for acrylic. For something like a patch, I would go with the #16 - it is thicker, and at least IME, easier to use for things like that. __________________ I'll try to be nice if you try to be smarter! I can't help that I grow older, but you can't make me grow up! Current Tank Info: 120 mixed reef with 40b sump, RO 150 skimmer, AI Sol Blue x 2, and a 60g Frag Tank with 100g rubbermaid sump. 2 x Kessil A360w lights, BM curve 5 skimmer

05/02/2014, 09:02 PM	#1
inetmug Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2014 Posts: 693	Sump bulkhead fittings questions? Hi all, Question 1: my sump had a hokey plug in a hole, like a big plastic bolt. It was chewed up and looked like a souuce for leaks. I have looked all around, but I can not find any bulkhead "plugs". So I guess I can put in a standard bulkhead with a cap. Am I missing something? Q2: In the event you need to close lots of holes in an acrylic sump, or reinforce a panel, does one just silicone in a panel, or is there a special "welding" glue for that? If so, how long till you can use the sump? Q3: Places like Ace Hardware, or Home Depot, do not seem to sell fittings with gaskets. In my boat, I use through hulls all the time, but they are bedded in with 5200 or something like that. I am told only 100% silicone for aquariums. Can you just bed in bulkhead fittings with silicone (in this case just the sump).

05/04/2014, 08:53 AM	#4
inetmug Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2014 Posts: 693	Got a lesson in acrylic welding yesterday from a local shop to plug a previous sump float valve. He does plastic work for me in various capabilities. It appears after some searching is the Weld-ON 3 or 4 is the trick. High VOC, like PVC glue. I learned that all PVC glue are potable in the same manner. You use the needle bottle, run the joint, the stuff wicks in. Handle-able in one minute, in two hours you can do what you want, 24 hours full cure. In five minutes the vast majority of fuming is gone, in two hours, not issues. In 24 hours 100%. So no worries on the water/livestock. Easy peasy, I now get how it would be easy enough to build anything. For a full sump I would use number 4, it is a slower curing and stronger connection. I would double check on a full tank however.

05/04/2014, 09:50 AM	#6
thegrun Registered Member Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: Garden Grove, Ca Posts: 17,023	1. I would either use an appropriate sized threaded plug (assuming the bulkhead is threaded) or remove the bulkhead and cover it with a piece of acrylic. Use Weld On #4 or #16, not silicone to attach the acrylic. 2. Use Weld On #4 or #16, not silicone to attach the acrylic. 3. Use standard PVC fittings with Teflon tape.