Some basic QT setup questions.

Bent · 05/21/2014, 03:52 PM

I'm going to be putting up the QT in the build soon and was going over stuff in my head. It's been a while, and I may not have done it correctly. But here was how I had my last QT setup.

10 gallon tank.
No light (the school of thought back then was that limiting the light reduced the stress on the fish in QT. Obviously this is different for corals. Some people went so far as to completely cover the QT.)
A few pounds of live rock, sand and some PVC fittings.
Always filled with water from the DT.
Ran a small HOB carbon filter. (Like a 30 dollar job.)
I would cycle the QT in between purchases, and just kept it running empty. My general QT time was 2 weeks and I never prophylactically treated anything. I would dump the water after introducing the new animal and refill it and wait for the next animal. I never bought multiple animals. (Unless they came from the same source.)

I was lucky, all those years I never ever saw a disease. No parasites, no ich, nothing.

Now, would you continue QT this way? Or is it archaic?

CoralReeForrest · 05/21/2014, 04:05 PM

Wouldn't. QT typically should consist of a bare tank with heater, power head, some PVC and a hob filter. Simple easily cleaned and easy. Of you get a fish with ich your rock and sand are now useless and compromised. It's always good to prophylactic treat prazipro and or hypo. Simple and easy. I do leave mine up and running in the spare room. Currently I'm battling black ich on a tng I got. You wouldn't want sand or rock.

Bent · 05/21/2014, 04:56 PM

K sounds good.

The rule of thumb I was always taught was that if your QT developed an illness you had to throw out the sand and rock and start over.

Good to know that it's not necessary.

So do you simply cycle with ghost feeding or a dead critter? If the tank is bare does the bacteria colonize the mechanical filter media? Or do you put something disposable and artificial in-between animals to grow it?

CoralReeForrest · 05/21/2014, 05:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bent

K sounds good.

The rule of thumb I was always taught was that if your QT developed an illness you had to throw out the sand and rock and start over.

Good to know that it's not necessary.

So do you simply cycle with ghost feeding or a dead critter? If the tank is bare does the bacteria colonize the mechanical filter media? Or do you put something disposable and artificial in-between animals to grow it?

Some people just use a good ole air stone and filter floss. Others, like myself have a hob filter, I run the carbon filters that are like 7 bucks for 3 at any local shop or petco, I keep a couple filters in the sump of my DT so when I get a new fish I just grab a filter and its good to go. Hasn't failed me yet. Of course you have to leave the filters in the sump for a few weeks. Also prime is always good to have on hand, or just do daily water changes on the QT. also a seachem ammonia badge, and I suppose you could always use biospira with a new filter pad but I have no use of that stuff.

m0nkie · 05/21/2014, 05:32 PM

I'm doing the tank transfer method. best method to prevent ich.

2 tanks with heater/pvc/powerhead. No need to cycle to tank since fish only stay for 3 days. Just watch for ammonia

after the tank transfer is done. I will place them in a more permanent QT to observe for 2 more weeks.. then off to DT

05/21/2014, 03:52 PM	#1
Bent I got nothin' Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: The anals Posts: 6,420	Some basic QT setup questions. I'm going to be putting up the QT in the build soon and was going over stuff in my head. It's been a while, and I may not have done it correctly. But here was how I had my last QT setup. 10 gallon tank. No light (the school of thought back then was that limiting the light reduced the stress on the fish in QT. Obviously this is different for corals. Some people went so far as to completely cover the QT.) A few pounds of live rock, sand and some PVC fittings. Always filled with water from the DT. Ran a small HOB carbon filter. (Like a 30 dollar job.) I would cycle the QT in between purchases, and just kept it running empty. My general QT time was 2 weeks and I never prophylactically treated anything. I would dump the water after introducing the new animal and refill it and wait for the next animal. I never bought multiple animals. (Unless they came from the same source.) I was lucky, all those years I never ever saw a disease. No parasites, no ich, nothing. Now, would you continue QT this way? Or is it archaic? __________________ Quitters never lose. [QUOTE=CStrickland]Who gets mad at a starfish?[/QUOTE] Current Tank Info: 75g DT, 30G refugium, 10g chaeto tank, 50g stock tank basement sump

05/21/2014, 04:56 PM	#3
Bent I got nothin' Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: The anals Posts: 6,420	K sounds good. The rule of thumb I was always taught was that if your QT developed an illness you had to throw out the sand and rock and start over. Good to know that it's not necessary. So do you simply cycle with ghost feeding or a dead critter? If the tank is bare does the bacteria colonize the mechanical filter media? Or do you put something disposable and artificial in-between animals to grow it? __________________ Quitters never lose. [QUOTE=CStrickland]Who gets mad at a starfish?[/QUOTE] Current Tank Info: 75g DT, 30G refugium, 10g chaeto tank, 50g stock tank basement sump

05/21/2014, 05:32 PM	#5
m0nkie Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2014 Location: LA Posts: 6,264	I'm doing the tank transfer method. best method to prevent ich. 2 tanks with heater/pvc/powerhead. No need to cycle to tank since fish only stay for 3 days. Just watch for ammonia after the tank transfer is done. I will place them in a more permanent QT to observe for 2 more weeks.. then off to DT __________________ 560gal in the making

05/21/2014, 04:05 PM	#2
CoralReeForrest Registered Member Join Date: May 2013 Location: Redding,Ca Posts: 1,010	Wouldn't. QT typically should consist of a bare tank with heater, power head, some PVC and a hob filter. Simple easily cleaned and easy. Of you get a fish with ich your rock and sand are now useless and compromised. It's always good to prophylactic treat prazipro and or hypo. Simple and easy. I do leave mine up and running in the spare room. Currently I'm battling black ich on a tng I got. You wouldn't want sand or rock.