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06/13/2014, 02:16 PM | #1 |
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Location: Wales, UK
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Phosphate issues
Hey guys was wondering if I could get some tailored advice, I'm running a FWLR tank 20 gallon and have some phosphate issues. I run a protein skimmer which keeps the nitrates on 0 but I've always struggled with po4. The main issue is probably that I run an external filter and a GFO in there, specifically aqua phos, which after 3 months hasn't affected my phos very much at all. It's like it exhausts itself straight away. Measurements are usually at 0.36 with Red Sea and I have an api and a salifert. All if which indicate .25-.36+. So, I realise my set up is not ideal but I have what seams to be a thriving tank apart from some algae issues, phosphate of course. Any general comments or opinions will be greatly appreciated. I also have a film on the top of my tank which has been there since the cycle finished a few months back. Oh I feed a litre amount of food once in the morn and once in the eve(new era marine flakes)
Thanks guys and gals! |
06/13/2014, 03:18 PM | #2 |
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Nitrates or Nitrites are zero?
Using RO/DI water for you changes? |
06/13/2014, 03:50 PM | #3 |
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Location: Arlington, Massachusetts
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How often do you change that GFO? At 0.3 ppm it might deplete in 24 h.
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Randy Holmes-Farley Current Tank Info: 120 mixed reef |
06/13/2014, 04:01 PM | #4 |
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I use RowaPhos. Keeps my Phosphate at zero according to my salifert kit
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06/13/2014, 04:36 PM | #5 |
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I've read a lot that some corals like a dirty tank.. is there an acceptable phosphate number?
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560gal in the making |
06/14/2014, 01:11 AM | #6 |
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Yes to both questions inetmug. Randy, your a legend and yes I would totally concur with that statement as when I initially started using phos removal that did seem to happen. Also within about 24-48 hours too. The reason I haven't kept on top of it is due to the cost mainly and disturbing the filter etc. a question I have is - as I have high phosphates and an amount of algae in the tank would I be best biting the bullet and buying more phosphate and replace them regular until I get it under control? Or would a better method or solution be to scrape all the algae I can find along with an initial phosphate removal regular change. Thanks for all the input peeps!
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06/14/2014, 01:13 AM | #7 |
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Location: Wales, UK
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Also as moniker suggests - an acceptable phos level for fish only with live rock? I have not thought about adding coral yet due to my lack of control over po4.
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06/14/2014, 06:32 AM | #8 |
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Just because your Nitrate is reading 0 does not mean it's not there. The algae is using it to grow. Harvesting the algae is a common method of nutrient export, so yes, cleaning it out will help, both with the nitrates (that are there) and with PO4 control.
Regardless of the media in the filter (a canister?) you should be cleaning any and all filter pads frequently. As the trapped detritus decays it will add to the problems you are having. Have you determined the source of the PO4? I would guess that it may be leeching from the rocks in your tank, so until the source has depleted itself, you will have continual problems. If that means changing the GFO every few days, so be it. A great source for economical GFO is www.bulkreefsupply.com
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I'll try to be nice if you try to be smarter! I can't help that I grow older, but you can't make me grow up! Current Tank Info: 120 mixed reef with 40b sump, RO 150 skimmer, AI Sol Blue x 2, and a 60g Frag Tank with 100g rubbermaid sump. 2 x Kessil A360w lights, BM curve 5 skimmer |
06/14/2014, 06:52 AM | #9 |
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06/14/2014, 06:58 AM | #10 |
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Mate canisters need a pre filter made by you, the one’s that are with them are useless for salt water! Clean your canister and make a section of conduit that sits in your tank instead of that useless sponge up near the top pf your water that you clean by taking out each day or second day to clean, perforate the conduit with an angle grinder and wrap with wadding twice and that’s what you take out and clean and re wrap and put on a rubber band to hold it there!
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