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06/15/2014, 09:03 PM | #1 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Gig Harbor, WA
Posts: 230
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ext. overflow plumbing
Hi,
i know there are many talk tracks on these forums regarding plumbing the overflow box but i must be stupid. i have a 6" (deep) by 10" (height top to bottom) x 42" (coast to coast) external overflow with three 1' bulk heads on the bottom (note these are not on the side as in the photos of the bean animal). I plan to use the bean animal design but it still isn't clear to me how tall do i make the three standpipes? or am i missing something basis on the bean design?? thank you! |
06/16/2014, 07:14 AM | #2 |
Space is big.
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Maryland Eastern Shore
Posts: 3,226
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Since I started running a BeanAnimal setup in an external overflow, I have been playing around with the standpipe heights and finally think I found what works best. The siphon should be about 1.5" above the bottom of the overflow box. The Durso elbow top (opening) is about 1" above the top of the siphon and the emergency drain is about 1" above that.
This is what has worked best for me so far. HTH,
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06/16/2014, 11:23 AM | #3 |
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Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Gig Harbor, WA
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thank you but i have to ask is how did you figure out that these differences in pipe height were the "right" ones for you? looking at the bean sight doesnt suggest differences...
also, how did you test these different lengths? the pipe needs to be connected to the bulkhead so once connected (glued) you cant change it without chaning the bulkhead, correct? what am i missing? |
06/16/2014, 11:44 AM | #4 |
Space is big.
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Maryland Eastern Shore
Posts: 3,226
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I figured it out by testing the system about a dozen times just after I got my new return pump and a bunch more since then. The most solid restarts were in this configuration where the siphon would purge quickly, the emergency drain just barely stayed dry and the Durso ended up with just the minimal amount of flow once everything has stabilized.
The fittings on the inlet side of the bulkhead (those in the box) don't need to be glued either together or to the bulkhead. In my case, when the return pump stops the water drops below the edge of the internal overflow so even if they did leak, it would just empty the external box which I accounted for in my sump design. Since they aren't glued I have been able to remove the three stand pipes, either cutting down or inserting a new section of pipe and then trying the system again. I had been running it slight different before I got the new pump but given I more than doubled the flow through the system, I had to adjust everything over again (after I removed the snail from the siphon pipe).
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06/16/2014, 12:00 PM | #5 |
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Join Date: Sep 2012
Posts: 298
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Thank you for sharing.
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06/16/2014, 12:23 PM | #6 |
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Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Grover Beach CA
Posts: 1,847
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They dont have to be glued just a snug fit, I wrapped the pipe with plumbers tape to ensure it was snug enough but still allowed me to remove it with a few good twists.
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