Melted middle bar

0rangeFish · 06/26/2014, 06:26 PM

I got a new light for my tank because my old one has seen better days and only half was working. So I swapped out the lights, turned it on, and left for three hours. When I came back I found the middle brace on my tank melted and drooping in the water. I didn't even think about the halide light in the middle of the fixture melting the bar of the tank. I'm kicking myself for this.

How important is the middle bar? I've seen some bow front tanks without one. How much pressure does it take off the glass? Am I going to be clean up gallons of water off the floor if I don't get it fixed?

I got the tank off craig's list, so it wasn't in its prim to start with. It's a 46 bow front tank thats somewhere between 12-15 years old. The front is tempered glass, but the sides and back I don't think are (especially since I drill a hole in the back for the overflow).

ca1ore · 06/26/2014, 06:35 PM

Tank builder apparently thought a brace was important enough to include on the tank. I'd not run it without one.

mfinn · 06/26/2014, 08:22 PM

I was given a 55 that had the same problem. It bowed out real bad.
I took a 1" wide piece of acrylic and used 2 part epoxy and glued it.
Then I drilled a couple holes in each side and used nylon bolts and nuts.
It's ugly as hell, but it works.

zachts · 06/26/2014, 09:46 PM

You can repair it as pictured, use a high grade lexon that is rated to handle a lot of heat but mostly just raise that halide up. You need to drain the tank as much as possible to repair it. There can't be any pressure on the glass while the glue dries. But since you've drilled the back that weakens it and I'd consider looking for a new tank. Brace it up as a temporary fix, but I'd start shopping.

kurt_n · 06/26/2014, 10:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 0rangeFish

Am I going to be clean up gallons of water off the floor if I don't get it fixed?

Yes.

How you fix it is open to interpretation and how much of a risk taker you are. Just keep in mind that you can have a brand new 46g bowfront tank for considerably less than $200.

Regardless of if you fix if or get a new one, you might want to rethink the halide directly above that brace.

billdogg · 06/27/2014, 04:46 AM

^^^What all of them have said^^^

The acrylic brace will work quite well - I've got a 120 that has been that way for at least 15 or 20 years. You don't even need to bother with the epoxy - just drill the holes and fasten it in place.

06/26/2014, 06:26 PM	#1
0rangeFish Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2014 Location: Vermont Posts: 43	Melted middle bar I got a new light for my tank because my old one has seen better days and only half was working. So I swapped out the lights, turned it on, and left for three hours. When I came back I found the middle brace on my tank melted and drooping in the water. I didn't even think about the halide light in the middle of the fixture melting the bar of the tank. I'm kicking myself for this. How important is the middle bar? I've seen some bow front tanks without one. How much pressure does it take off the glass? Am I going to be clean up gallons of water off the floor if I don't get it fixed? I got the tank off craig's list, so it wasn't in its prim to start with. It's a 46 bow front tank thats somewhere between 12-15 years old. The front is tempered glass, but the sides and back I don't think are (especially since I drill a hole in the back for the overflow). Last edited by 0rangeFish; 06/26/2014 at 06:32 PM.

06/26/2014, 06:35 PM	#2
ca1ore Grizzled & Cynical Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: Stamford, CT Posts: 17,319	Tank builder apparently thought a brace was important enough to include on the tank. I'd not run it without one. __________________ Simon Got back into the hobby ..... planned to keep it simple ..... yeah, right ..... clearly I need a new plan! Pet peeve: anemones host clowns; clowns do not host anemones! Current Tank Info: 450 Reef; 120 refugium; 60 Frag Tank, 30 Introduction tank; multiple QTs

06/26/2014, 08:22 PM	#3
mfinn Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2002 Location: Olympia. WA. Posts: 8,648	I was given a 55 that had the same problem. It bowed out real bad. I took a 1" wide piece of acrylic and used 2 part epoxy and glued it. Then I drilled a couple holes in each side and used nylon bolts and nuts. It's ugly as hell, but it works. __________________ 240 gallon soft coral tank 50 gallon lps tank

06/27/2014, 04:46 AM	#6
billdogg Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: Grove City, Ohio Posts: 10,806	^^^What all of them have said^^^ The acrylic brace will work quite well - I've got a 120 that has been that way for at least 15 or 20 years. You don't even need to bother with the epoxy - just drill the holes and fasten it in place. __________________ I'll try to be nice if you try to be smarter! I can't help that I grow older, but you can't make me grow up! Current Tank Info: 120 mixed reef with 40b sump, RO 150 skimmer, AI Sol Blue x 2, and a 60g Frag Tank with 100g rubbermaid sump. 2 x Kessil A360w lights, BM curve 5 skimmer

06/26/2014, 09:46 PM	#4
zachts Registered Member Join Date: Mar 2005 Location: St. Louis, MO. Posts: 3,259	You can repair it as pictured, use a high grade lexon that is rated to handle a lot of heat but mostly just raise that halide up. You need to drain the tank as much as possible to repair it. There can't be any pressure on the glass while the glue dries. But since you've drilled the back that weakens it and I'd consider looking for a new tank. Brace it up as a temporary fix, but I'd start shopping.