New member of the Radium M80 Club. : /

Stlouphil · 07/02/2014, 08:42 PM

Been running 250watt Radiums on an older electronic Coralvue ballast for the last couple months and have LOVED them. Best looking MH bulb I have ever used, but this nagging voice in the back of my head kept saying "That's not the ballast Radiums are speced for!" SO I got a Bluewave 7 (the infamous M80 ballast) from a fine gentleman here in RC. I hook it up tonight! You know what? By looking at it I can't tell the difference!

I know I'm probably getting more PAR, but I don't have a PAR meter. Visually they look identical except that the corals MIGHT be fluorescing more on the M80 ballast. We will see. I don't have the best colors in my purple and blue SPS maybe the increase PAR will be what is needed to bring the color out.

Anyways, at least I'm now part of the M80 Radium club.

theaquareef · 07/03/2014, 12:38 AM

Right on man! Radium on m80 looks very good on my tank too. I just got my first corals and they look great so far. I'd say it's a plus if you can tell the difference! More par/pffd is great. How do you like the combo with your rb leds?

Stlouphil · 07/03/2014, 08:44 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by theaquareef

Right on man! Radium on m80 looks very good on my tank too. I just got my first corals and they look great so far. I'd say it's a plus if you can tell the difference! More par/pffd is great. How do you like the combo with your rb leds?

Visually really cannot tell the difference between the electronic and the m80. Love the RBs. The Radium do pretty well overtake them thought. Here soon I'm going to add another strip.

Nanook · 07/03/2014, 08:51 AM

Bout time

I can tell the difference for sure between Radiums on electronic versus M80...spotted them many times. The M80 burns the bulb whiter and brighter, with significantly more PPFD.

Stlouphil · 07/03/2014, 09:07 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Nanook

Bout time

I can tell the difference for sure between Radiums on electronic versus M80...spotted them many times. The M80 burns the bulb whiter and brighter, with significantly more PPFD.

LIke I said, I can't really tell a difference. Might be because my eyes are almost 54 years old.

I guess I have to take everyone's word for it and assume i'm getting more PAR. Radiums still look great to me with either ballast. When I have time maybe I can get the club's PAR meter and get some measurements. I know there has been a thousand studies done one this, but it would be interesting to see it for myself.

Bpb · 07/03/2014, 12:02 PM

The M80 will be a bit whiter overall. But it's all perspective and opinion. When I bought my reflectors used I tested the Radiums out on Galaxy Eballasts and they were a touch bluer than they are now being burned by the M80 ballasts I purchased. I'd be happy either way honestly.

I have just read alot of advice saying that Eballasts, even those with the HQI setting, are still under driving the bulb, and people actually say that reduces the useful life of the bulb. Seems counter intuitive. I always understood driving a bulb harder makes it lose life faster, not the other way around. But...being a new halide user myself, I'll defer to experienced advice.

Stlouphil · 07/03/2014, 01:10 PM

Anecdotally, thank tank is running 4 degrees warmer today than normal. At least I know the bulbs are running hotter. Must be getting that extra PAR I'm looking for with the M80s. Time to get than fan on the sump.

Please no comments from LED users.

Bpb · 07/03/2014, 01:38 PM

I've got the same tank size, sump size, and lighting as in your signature. A single 6" clip on desk fan from Walmart attatched to the back of the canopy has kept my tank temp below 80 degrees. Highly recommended. I bought two but one alone does the job

Stlouphil · 07/03/2014, 08:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bpb

I've got the same tank size, sump size, and lighting as in your signature. A single 6" clip on desk fan from Walmart attatched to the back of the canopy has kept my tank temp below 80 degrees. Highly recommended. I bought two but one alone does the job

Picked one up tonight. I'm going to try to run it over the sump because its in the other room and see how that works. I have more of a light hanger rather than a canopy so it's pretty open and the fan will be visible. Tank got up to 85 tonight.

Stlouphil · 07/05/2014, 10:26 PM

Fan on sump keeps DT at 82 in the evening. I can live with that. If sps begin to look stress I ll add a fan to DT.

Stlouphil · 07/15/2014, 01:15 AM

Update: put an additional 6" inch fan on display tank. When temp goes above 78 both fans click on. The highest the temp gets is 79. A 1 degree swing ain't too bad for 500 watts of Radium lighting! : )

Big E · 07/15/2014, 04:38 AM

Quote:

Anyways, at least I'm now part of the M80 Radium club.

I don't want to sound like a buzz kill but............

To actually be a member of the "true" Radium club you'd have to be using the 400w bulb / m80 ballast and then use VHO pure 03 antinics to finish it all off.

Since the VHOs are going out the next best bet is a T5 antinic bulbs overdriven with a 660 ballast. If you use LEDs you'd have to use all 420 diodes to finish off a 400w bulb,which I'm not sure they make.

If you notice the Ice cap 660 ballast is being re-introduced and it's likely due to the VHO antinics being discontinued. Large deep tanks need the penetration that an overdriven t5 bulb will accomplish what VHO's used to do.

That may be why you can't see a difference with your eyes as the 250w bulb doesn't have the same spectrum of the 400w Radium. or nowhere near the par. The 250w have more of a spike in that 400 range so it may not have the same whiter look to your eyes.

Your 250w Radium/m80 has similar par and plot characteristics of some of the 400w bulbs on the market driven by an electronic ballast.

ssdawood · 07/15/2014, 05:45 AM

400w are nice but if you have a shallow tank of 20 inches or less in depth then 250 are way to go. No need to have 400 watter and waste that extra power.

Stlouphil · 07/15/2014, 06:29 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ssdawood

400w are nice but if you have a shallow tank of 20 inches or less in depth then 250 are way to go. No need to have 400 watter and waste that extra power.

It's a standard 90 so yes the 250w are more than enough. Like the OP stated I was running the Radiums on an electronic ballast and switched M80 ballasts. Yes there is certainly enough PAR for this tank. Mater of fact, I have already bleached a couple of Montis that were in the lower third of the tank. I have had to move them to the bottom. ; )

Stlouphil · 07/15/2014, 06:42 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Big E

I don't want to sound like a buzz kill but............

To actually be a member of the "true" Radium club you'd have to be using the 400w bulb / m80 ballast and then use VHO pure 03 antinics to finish it all off.

Buzzkill no, either confused or mis-spoken maybe. The M80 is an 250 watt HQI ballast that overdrives the the 250 watt bulb to 330 watts. Why would anyone drive a 400 watt bulb with a 250w ballast. : / not even sure an M80 would light a 400w bulb.

animalkingdom · 07/15/2014, 07:09 AM

what?! there is something better than a plusrite on an icecap electronic ballast...you have to be kidding me

Big E · 07/15/2014, 08:11 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Stlouphil

Buzzkill no, either confused or mis-spoken maybe. The M80 is an 250 watt HQI ballast that overdrives the the 250 watt bulb to 330 watts. Why would anyone drive a 400 watt bulb with a 250w ballast. : / not even sure an M80 would light a 400w bulb.

I may have labled the 400 HQI wrong as an m80.....I think it was called the m59 magnetic 400w ballast that was the HQI.......but the point is that and HQI 400w ballast drives a 400w Radium different than a HQI 250w ballast & 250w bulb. The spectrums aren't the same.

The 250w Radiums were never the gold standard................it was always the 400w bulb overdriven on the HQI.

I agree, no need for a 400w bulb on a 90g par wise but if you want the gold standard, you would run the 400w Radium. Plenty of us did back then on 90 & 120g tanks.

What you're doing with the 250 overdriven is just similar to some 400w bulbs on electronic ballasts. Same par and similar spectrum.

Stlouphil · 07/15/2014, 08:25 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Big E

I may have labled the 400 HQI wrong as an m80.....I think it was called the m59 magnetic 400w ballast that was the HQI.......but the point is that and HQI 400w ballast drives a 400w Radium different than a HQI 250w ballast & 250w bulb. The spectrums aren't the same.

The 250w Radiums were never the gold standard................it was always the 400w bulb overdriven on the HQI.

I agree, no need for a 400w bulb on a 90g par wise but if you want the gold standard, you would run the 400w Radium. Plenty of us did back then on 90 & 120g tanks.

What you're doing with the 250 overdriven is just similar to some 400w bulbs on electronic ballasts. Same par and similar spectrum.

Lord, I did not declare 250 is gold standard. I was running 250 watt Radiums on an electronic ballast. "Everybody" was saying " that's not the ballast Radiums wee speced for!" After countless comments I switched to the M80 ballast. The correct ballast for 250 watt Radium bulbs. That was the point of the OP.

Someday if I upgrade to 400w Radiums I guess I"ll be a part of your club. The 400w Radium with VHO actinic club. : /

moondoggy4 · 07/15/2014, 09:09 PM

Welcome to the club, my LFS runs a pair of 400 Radiums with a magnetic ballast and they look really nice, I just scored 4- M80 Hamilton ballast, but sadly I will have to go with Phoenix De bulbs.

I remember my friend hearing how great a movie that just came out and when he finally saw it wondered what everyone was raving about, kinda think that is like the radium bulb nicer but not like angels singing.

07/02/2014, 08:42 PM	#1
Stlouphil Registered Member Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: Wildwood, MO Posts: 393	New member of the Radium M80 Club. : / Been running 250watt Radiums on an older electronic Coralvue ballast for the last couple months and have LOVED them. Best looking MH bulb I have ever used, but this nagging voice in the back of my head kept saying "That's not the ballast Radiums are speced for!" SO I got a Bluewave 7 (the infamous M80 ballast) from a fine gentleman here in RC. I hook it up tonight! You know what? By looking at it I can't tell the difference! I know I'm probably getting more PAR, but I don't have a PAR meter. Visually they look identical except that the corals MIGHT be fluorescing more on the M80 ballast. We will see. I don't have the best colors in my purple and blue SPS maybe the increase PAR will be what is needed to bring the color out. Anyways, at least I'm now part of the M80 Radium club. __________________ Current Tank: 90RR mixed reef, 150gal additional volume, 40gal sump, algae reactor, ASM G-3 skimmer, 3 - modified Marsaqua Led Units 2- 165w 1- 300w, Kalwasser reactor ATO, Auto Dosing 3 part plus tra Last edited by Stlouphil; 07/02/2014 at 08:57 PM.

07/03/2014, 08:51 AM	#4
Nanook Ancient Eskimo Legend Join Date: Mar 2001 Location: Saint Louis, MO Posts: 41,852 Blog Entries: 11	Bout time I can tell the difference for sure between Radiums on electronic versus M80...spotted them many times. The M80 burns the bulb whiter and brighter, with significantly more PPFD. __________________ The wind blew, the chit flew, and then they came two by two. ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Current Tank Info: 375g Tanganyikan Tank & 470g mixed reef

07/03/2014, 01:10 PM	#7
Stlouphil Registered Member Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: Wildwood, MO Posts: 393	Anecdotally, thank tank is running 4 degrees warmer today than normal. At least I know the bulbs are running hotter. Must be getting that extra PAR I'm looking for with the M80s. Time to get than fan on the sump. Please no comments from LED users. __________________ Current Tank: 90RR mixed reef, 150gal additional volume, 40gal sump, algae reactor, ASM G-3 skimmer, 3 - modified Marsaqua Led Units 2- 165w 1- 300w, Kalwasser reactor ATO, Auto Dosing 3 part plus tra

07/05/2014, 10:26 PM	#10
Stlouphil Registered Member Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: Wildwood, MO Posts: 393	Fan on sump keeps DT at 82 in the evening. I can live with that. If sps begin to look stress I ll add a fan to DT. __________________ Current Tank: 90RR mixed reef, 150gal additional volume, 40gal sump, algae reactor, ASM G-3 skimmer, 3 - modified Marsaqua Led Units 2- 165w 1- 300w, Kalwasser reactor ATO, Auto Dosing 3 part plus tra

07/15/2014, 01:15 AM	#11
Stlouphil Registered Member Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: Wildwood, MO Posts: 393	Update: put an additional 6" inch fan on display tank. When temp goes above 78 both fans click on. The highest the temp gets is 79. A 1 degree swing ain't too bad for 500 watts of Radium lighting! : ) __________________ Current Tank: 90RR mixed reef, 150gal additional volume, 40gal sump, algae reactor, ASM G-3 skimmer, 3 - modified Marsaqua Led Units 2- 165w 1- 300w, Kalwasser reactor ATO, Auto Dosing 3 part plus tra

07/03/2014, 12:38 AM	#2
theaquareef Registered Member Join Date: Jul 2010 Location: Phoenix, AZ Posts: 578	Right on man! Radium on m80 looks very good on my tank too. I just got my first corals and they look great so far. I'd say it's a plus if you can tell the difference! More par/pffd is great. How do you like the combo with your rb leds?

07/03/2014, 12:02 PM	#6
Bpb Registered Member Join Date: Oct 2012 Location: Texas Posts: 3,148	The M80 will be a bit whiter overall. But it's all perspective and opinion. When I bought my reflectors used I tested the Radiums out on Galaxy Eballasts and they were a touch bluer than they are now being burned by the M80 ballasts I purchased. I'd be happy either way honestly. I have just read alot of advice saying that Eballasts, even those with the HQI setting, are still under driving the bulb, and people actually say that reduces the useful life of the bulb. Seems counter intuitive. I always understood driving a bulb harder makes it lose life faster, not the other way around. But...being a new halide user myself, I'll defer to experienced advice.

07/03/2014, 01:38 PM	#8
Bpb Registered Member Join Date: Oct 2012 Location: Texas Posts: 3,148	I've got the same tank size, sump size, and lighting as in your signature. A single 6" clip on desk fan from Walmart attatched to the back of the canopy has kept my tank temp below 80 degrees. Highly recommended. I bought two but one alone does the job

07/15/2014, 05:45 AM	#13
ssdawood Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2013 Location: Wappingers Falls Posts: 324	400w are nice but if you have a shallow tank of 20 inches or less in depth then 250 are way to go. No need to have 400 watter and waste that extra power. __________________ Elos 120, ATI Led Powermodule , Hopefully SPS dominated reef

07/15/2014, 07:09 AM	#16
animalkingdom Registered Member Join Date: Oct 2011 Location: AL Posts: 632	what?! there is something better than a plusrite on an icecap electronic ballast...you have to be kidding me

07/15/2014, 09:09 PM	#19
moondoggy4 Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: menifee So cal Posts: 11,042	Welcome to the club, my LFS runs a pair of 400 Radiums with a magnetic ballast and they look really nice, I just scored 4- M80 Hamilton ballast, but sadly I will have to go with Phoenix De bulbs. I remember my friend hearing how great a movie that just came out and when he finally saw it wondered what everyone was raving about, kinda think that is like the radium bulb nicer but not like angels singing.