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Unread 07/24/2014, 10:56 PM   #1
Fish N Coral
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Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Peoria, AZ
Posts: 107
My First 40 Breeder Tank w/ pics. Need plumbing check





Trying to figure out plumbing with 0 experience. It is surprisingly hard to find detailed info that is easy for newbie's starting up their first tank.

Questions:

1. Do I need 4 plastic clamps and 3 barbs? Unsure if I need them on both sides of the Gate Valve & connected to Loc-Line.
2. I saw pics of people using the Herbie method. Must I place the emergency pipe inside overflow box or can I have it on its own down the middle?
3. For braided vinyl, is 3/4" or 1" better for Glassh0les 700gph with Sicce Syncra 3.0?

Google Sketchup file if you want to look around.
Code:
http://www.filedropper.com/my-first-40-breeder-w-natalie-portman



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Unread 07/25/2014, 08:04 AM   #2
thegrun
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Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Garden Grove, Ca
Posts: 17,023
So here are my recommendations:
The return pump is going to give you about 500 GPH delivered at maximum flow after head pressure loss, so I would reduce the drain lines to 1" which will handle 600 GPH, you will get more noise than with 1-1/2" drains. On the primary drain I would use rigid PVC to the first 90 elbow and then add a gate valve to reduce the flow. Use flexible tubing after the gate valve into the sump. You want to restrict the flow so the water backs up almost to the top of the drain line, this will eliminate the waterfall noise when the water falls unrestricted to the bottom of the drain pipe. Do not add a valve to the emergency drain, it needs to run unrestricted. If there is room in the overflow box I would move the emergency drain line there just to hide it, but it will work fine where you show it. 3/4" is fine for your return line. I like to use clamps wherever you have barbed fittings.


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Unread 07/25/2014, 10:24 AM   #3
Fish N Coral
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Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Peoria, AZ
Posts: 107
Quote:
Originally Posted by thegrun View Post
so I would reduce the drain lines to 1" which will handle 600 GPH, you will get more noise than with 1-1/2" drains."
How much more noisy will it be? As long as it isn't too noticeable I'll be happy. I was hoping to build a quiet as possible system since it will be in our living room.

Is reducing the pvc drain line ok even with glassh0les install instructions stating:

"This plumbing should consist of the minimum of fittings
needed, and no valves, or fittings smaller than the pipe size
of the kit you purchased
. If you have a 700
and 1500, this is 1 1/2.” Do not combine dual drains."

"The kits will not work properly with
smaller or restricted plumbing
!!!!"

Quote:
Originally Posted by thegrun View Post
Do not add a valve to the emergency drain, it needs to run unrestricted. If there is room in the overflow box I would move the emergency drain line there just to hide it, but it will work fine where you show it. 3/4" is fine for your return line. I like to use clamps wherever you have barbed fittings.
I planned to have a valve on the return, not the emergency. I will see if I can fit the emergency pipe right above the Regular Drain Line. But it's a great idea to fit a valve on the drain side as well.

So according to you, it should go 90 degree 1 1/2" elbow coming from overflow box, using a union to reduce 1 1/2" hard pvc down to 1", connect that to gate valve, add barb and clamp to connect gate valve to flexible pvc directed into sump. Is this right?


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Unread 07/25/2014, 01:42 PM   #4
thegrun
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Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Garden Grove, Ca
Posts: 17,023
If the overflow box is already set up with a 1-1/2" drain I would just stay with 1-1/2" all the way. So 90 degree 1 1/2" elbow coming from overflow box, 1 1/2" hard pvc down to 1-1/2" gate valve, add barb and clamp to connect gate valve to flexible pvc directed into sump.


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Unread 07/25/2014, 02:18 PM   #5
Fish N Coral
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Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Peoria, AZ
Posts: 107
Thanks for your time and advice thegrun!


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