RO Booster pump problems

Sethjamto · 03/19/2014, 02:32 PM

I recently about a month ago installed an Aquatech 6800 with auto shutoff valve on my RODI to boost my poor water pressure. I noticed yesterday that my RODI storage tank was full but the pump was still running. No water was dumping into the drum (therefore the float switch is doing it's job) as it was all going out the waste line instead.

I emailed the vendor on amazon that I bought the pump and shut off valve from thinking the valve "might" be bad. He said he would exchange it, but mentioned that they rarely go bad, especially in a month's time with only about 60ish gallons run through it since I installed it.

This is what he commented and I have questions on:

Quote:

It is rare however that the switch goes bad but is possible, usually it is a filter or membrane issue causing a production problem. But if you turn off the tank ball valve you can simulate a full tank and it should shut off at that point. It also can be a bad check valve on the ro that will allow the tank to fill but water will still run to the drain so it does not build up the 40 psi needed to shut off.

The filters and membrane are new within the past couple of months, so I'm confident I can rule that out.

The only valve I have in the system is BEFORE the booster pump. Is this the valve he is talking about? If so, when I turn it off, the pump continues to run (just without water).

When he mentions check valve, does he mean the one with the 4 lines going in and out that was installed with my float switch in the drum? I'm referencing this one that is included in the auto shut off kit from BRS: http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/auto-s...s-systems.html.

I also just today replaced the flow restrictor, so I can rule that out.

It is a 75gpd system with a 550 flow restrictor from BRS.

I just don't want to keep buying parts one at a time and am hoping there is a way I can troubleshoot what went wrong all of a sudden. It was working perfectly fine up to yesterday.

mcgyvr · 03/19/2014, 04:20 PM

he thinks you have a drinking water system with a pressure tank which as a valve on the top of it that you can close off.. (don't think you do)

I would install a simple valve and pressure gauge on the output of the pump. Open then valve pump should run and water should flow. Close the valve..pressure should rise to 40+ and the pump should stop (some take a bit). If it doesn't work like that the shutoff valve for the pump is bad.

Sethjamto · 03/19/2014, 04:47 PM

Just a regular RODI like we all have, not a pressure tank. I'll give that a try tomorrow or later tonight (pizza is in the oven and I'M HUNGRY!! ha ha ha).

Sethjamto · 03/22/2014, 12:08 PM

Any thoughts?

viper12775 · 03/22/2014, 01:20 PM

do you have an adjustment screw on the pressure switch and also check the auto shut off valve if its not working you won't build the pressure to work the pressure switch check the shutoff valve first

Sethjamto · 03/22/2014, 04:54 PM

I opened up the shut off valve, but can tell if it's good or not. What do I look for?

I can adjust on the pressure switch, but don't see why I should. I was working fine before, so I shouldn't have to turn down the pressure switch. The problem I believe lies elsewhere.

Sethjamto · 03/22/2014, 05:44 PM

Okay....figured it out. I have a spare pressure gauge that I hooked inline in every possible spot I could to test pressures throughout the system.

Pressure in before booster pump is 34psi (which is why I need the pump!)
Pressure after the booster: 90psi
Pressure after sediment filter: 90psi
Pressure after carbon block: 30psi (ding ding ding!!! I found the problem!)

I removed the carbon block and the pressure jumped to 60psi and the booster pump immediately shut off and nothing is coming out the waste line.

Now off to get new filters! If I remember right they aren't that old either which surprises me. Oh well......at least I figured it out!

Thanks guys!

scottwhitson · 03/22/2014, 09:53 PM

You mention in your first post that when your tank was full and the booster pump was running that you had water going out the waste line. If this was happening then your Auto Shut Off valve or check valve in the RO membrane is bad. It should stop the water from going out the waste line. Also it would help in the troubleshooting to explain how you have this system plumbed. Where is your pressure switch that controls the booster pump located in the plumbing?

Sethjamto · 03/23/2014, 07:12 AM

It was without a doubt the carbon filter, as I put a new one in last night and the system works as designed again....

Here's the setup of my system:
Water line in > booster pump > Pressure switch > sediment filter > carbon block > auto shut off > RO membrane > DI > storage tank.

I think the problem was before that when the tank got full and the float valve closed all the water would just run out the waste line as the carbon block wasn't letting the auto shut off valve build enough pressure to kill the entire system. Now that 60psi run through the carbon block again, the auto shut off and pressure switch act properly and kill the entire system, thus a full tank of RODI, no water coming out the waste line, and the booster pump is shut off. I've tested several times by draining just a quarter gallon out of the storage tank and it all kicks on and then back off entirely once full again.

Masterofnonsense · 03/23/2014, 09:06 AM

I think you have your setup a little off. You should have your pressure switch after the output side of your RO membrane. While the system is filling, there is very little pressure on the output side, which is what you want. When the float valve closes on your reservoir, the pressure will go up and shut off the pump. You should also have the auto-shutoff for the RO membrane in the same place as well.

Sethjamto · 03/23/2014, 06:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Masterofnonsense

I think you have your setup a little off. You should have your pressure switch after the output side of your RO membrane. While the system is filling, there is very little pressure on the output side, which is what you want. When the float valve closes on your reservoir, the pressure will go up and shut off the pump. You should also have the auto-shutoff for the RO membrane in the same place as well.

I installed it that way per the instructions (or so I thought...). Let me check in to it and see if things need to be moved around some.

Like I said though, it's working now that I replaced the clogged carbon block filter.

Sethjamto · 03/23/2014, 06:50 PM

Ya know what? I messed up my order listed above! LOL

The pressure switch IS after the DI canister and just before the storage tank!

Sethjamto · 03/23/2014, 07:02 PM

Something I did just find online is this: https://spectrapure.com/manuals/BOOSTER-PUMPS.pdf

It says the booster pump should be after the sediment and carbon filters and before the RO membrane. I currently have the pump before everything.

Should I change it around? I swear I installed it this way per the instructions, but now that I'm reading them on the link above, maybe I should change it up.

The instructions also say to NOT use a piercing type valve for the input of the water supply. This is how mine is set up, with a piercing valve tapping into the hot water heater supply line. Should I not use that and change it?

I'm just looking for the best performance on this, that's all. I appreciate everyone's help so far!

scottwhitson · 03/23/2014, 10:48 PM

It would be best to change it so that your booster pump is after the prefilters. The prefilter housings aren't meant to have a lot of pressure in them and having the booster pump after the filters will increase the efficiency of the RO membrane because you won't have the pressure drop across the filters. Also you listed that your auto shut off is before the membrane it should be after it, this should help with any issues in the future.

Sethjamto · 03/24/2014, 05:20 AM

I've heard that a few times, BUT.....BRS recommends it before the membrane, like this: http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/instru...shut-off-valve.

This way has one line coming from the carbon block through the top of the ASOV to the membrane back through the bottom of the ASOV to the DI cartridge. That's how mine is rigged up.

Buckeye Hydro · 04/12/2014, 11:20 AM

Feel free to give us a call when you are in front of the system and we can help you get things squared away. BTW - that 6800 pump is intended for 50 gpd and below membranes. Is that what you have?

Russ

SpectraPure · 04/15/2014, 11:53 AM

Please hook up the booster pump after the sediment and carbon. The sediment and carbon will protect the pump. One last bit of advice. Use a good sediment filter.

If you have any questions please feel free to ask

Jeremy

Buckeye Hydro · 08/09/2014, 03:01 AM

This may help:

03/19/2014, 04:20 PM	#2
mcgyvr Registered Member Join Date: Sep 2003 Location: North Carolina Posts: 20,050	he thinks you have a drinking water system with a pressure tank which as a valve on the top of it that you can close off.. (don't think you do) I would install a simple valve and pressure gauge on the output of the pump. Open then valve pump should run and water should flow. Close the valve..pressure should rise to 40+ and the pump should stop (some take a bit). If it doesn't work like that the shutoff valve for the pump is bad. __________________ Who me?

03/19/2014, 04:47 PM	#3
Sethjamto Registered Member Join Date: May 2012 Location: Mobile, AL Posts: 845	Just a regular RODI like we all have, not a pressure tank. I'll give that a try tomorrow or later tonight (pizza is in the oven and I'M HUNGRY!! ha ha ha). __________________ 8ft 300g, Reeflo Dart Gold return, MRC 48" High-flo reef sump, MRC MR4 dual beckett Skimmer, (2) Reefbreeders Photon 48's, Reef Angel, LMIII continuous water change/ATO setup..

03/22/2014, 12:08 PM	#4
Sethjamto Registered Member Join Date: May 2012 Location: Mobile, AL Posts: 845	Any thoughts? __________________ 8ft 300g, Reeflo Dart Gold return, MRC 48" High-flo reef sump, MRC MR4 dual beckett Skimmer, (2) Reefbreeders Photon 48's, Reef Angel, LMIII continuous water change/ATO setup..

03/22/2014, 04:54 PM	#6
Sethjamto Registered Member Join Date: May 2012 Location: Mobile, AL Posts: 845	I opened up the shut off valve, but can tell if it's good or not. What do I look for? I can adjust on the pressure switch, but don't see why I should. I was working fine before, so I shouldn't have to turn down the pressure switch. The problem I believe lies elsewhere. __________________ 8ft 300g, Reeflo Dart Gold return, MRC 48" High-flo reef sump, MRC MR4 dual beckett Skimmer, (2) Reefbreeders Photon 48's, Reef Angel, LMIII continuous water change/ATO setup.. Last edited by Sethjamto; 03/22/2014 at 05:15 PM.

03/22/2014, 05:44 PM	#7
Sethjamto Registered Member Join Date: May 2012 Location: Mobile, AL Posts: 845	Okay....figured it out. I have a spare pressure gauge that I hooked inline in every possible spot I could to test pressures throughout the system. Pressure in before booster pump is 34psi (which is why I need the pump!) Pressure after the booster: 90psi Pressure after sediment filter: 90psi Pressure after carbon block: 30psi (ding ding ding!!! I found the problem!) I removed the carbon block and the pressure jumped to 60psi and the booster pump immediately shut off and nothing is coming out the waste line. Now off to get new filters! If I remember right they aren't that old either which surprises me. Oh well......at least I figured it out! Thanks guys! __________________ 8ft 300g, Reeflo Dart Gold return, MRC 48" High-flo reef sump, MRC MR4 dual beckett Skimmer, (2) Reefbreeders Photon 48's, Reef Angel, LMIII continuous water change/ATO setup..

03/22/2014, 01:20 PM	#5
viper12775 Registered Member Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: clearwater fl Posts: 1,151	do you have an adjustment screw on the pressure switch and also check the auto shut off valve if its not working you won't build the pressure to work the pressure switch check the shutoff valve first

03/22/2014, 09:53 PM	#8
scottwhitson Registered Member Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: Lewiston, Idaho Posts: 1,395	You mention in your first post that when your tank was full and the booster pump was running that you had water going out the waste line. If this was happening then your Auto Shut Off valve or check valve in the RO membrane is bad. It should stop the water from going out the waste line. Also it would help in the troubleshooting to explain how you have this system plumbed. Where is your pressure switch that controls the booster pump located in the plumbing? Last edited by scottwhitson; 03/22/2014 at 10:01 PM.

03/23/2014, 07:12 AM	#9
Sethjamto Registered Member Join Date: May 2012 Location: Mobile, AL Posts: 845	It was without a doubt the carbon filter, as I put a new one in last night and the system works as designed again.... Here's the setup of my system: Water line in > booster pump > Pressure switch > sediment filter > carbon block > auto shut off > RO membrane > DI > storage tank. I think the problem was before that when the tank got full and the float valve closed all the water would just run out the waste line as the carbon block wasn't letting the auto shut off valve build enough pressure to kill the entire system. Now that 60psi run through the carbon block again, the auto shut off and pressure switch act properly and kill the entire system, thus a full tank of RODI, no water coming out the waste line, and the booster pump is shut off. I've tested several times by draining just a quarter gallon out of the storage tank and it all kicks on and then back off entirely once full again. __________________ 8ft 300g, Reeflo Dart Gold return, MRC 48" High-flo reef sump, MRC MR4 dual beckett Skimmer, (2) Reefbreeders Photon 48's, Reef Angel, LMIII continuous water change/ATO setup..

03/23/2014, 09:06 AM	#10
Masterofnonsense Registered Member Join Date: May 2003 Location: Colorado Posts: 111	I think you have your setup a little off. You should have your pressure switch after the output side of your RO membrane. While the system is filling, there is very little pressure on the output side, which is what you want. When the float valve closes on your reservoir, the pressure will go up and shut off the pump. You should also have the auto-shutoff for the RO membrane in the same place as well. Last edited by Masterofnonsense; 03/23/2014 at 09:13 AM.

03/23/2014, 06:50 PM	#12
Sethjamto Registered Member Join Date: May 2012 Location: Mobile, AL Posts: 845	Ya know what? I messed up my order listed above! LOL The pressure switch IS after the DI canister and just before the storage tank! __________________ 8ft 300g, Reeflo Dart Gold return, MRC 48" High-flo reef sump, MRC MR4 dual beckett Skimmer, (2) Reefbreeders Photon 48's, Reef Angel, LMIII continuous water change/ATO setup..

03/23/2014, 07:02 PM	#13
Sethjamto Registered Member Join Date: May 2012 Location: Mobile, AL Posts: 845	Something I did just find online is this: https://spectrapure.com/manuals/BOOSTER-PUMPS.pdf It says the booster pump should be after the sediment and carbon filters and before the RO membrane. I currently have the pump before everything. Should I change it around? I swear I installed it this way per the instructions, but now that I'm reading them on the link above, maybe I should change it up. The instructions also say to NOT use a piercing type valve for the input of the water supply. This is how mine is set up, with a piercing valve tapping into the hot water heater supply line. Should I not use that and change it? I'm just looking for the best performance on this, that's all. I appreciate everyone's help so far! __________________ 8ft 300g, Reeflo Dart Gold return, MRC 48" High-flo reef sump, MRC MR4 dual beckett Skimmer, (2) Reefbreeders Photon 48's, Reef Angel, LMIII continuous water change/ATO setup..

03/23/2014, 10:48 PM	#14
scottwhitson Registered Member Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: Lewiston, Idaho Posts: 1,395	It would be best to change it so that your booster pump is after the prefilters. The prefilter housings aren't meant to have a lot of pressure in them and having the booster pump after the filters will increase the efficiency of the RO membrane because you won't have the pressure drop across the filters. Also you listed that your auto shut off is before the membrane it should be after it, this should help with any issues in the future.

03/24/2014, 05:20 AM	#15
Sethjamto Registered Member Join Date: May 2012 Location: Mobile, AL Posts: 845	I've heard that a few times, BUT.....BRS recommends it before the membrane, like this: http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/instru...shut-off-valve. This way has one line coming from the carbon block through the top of the ASOV to the membrane back through the bottom of the ASOV to the DI cartridge. That's how mine is rigged up. __________________ 8ft 300g, Reeflo Dart Gold return, MRC 48" High-flo reef sump, MRC MR4 dual beckett Skimmer, (2) Reefbreeders Photon 48's, Reef Angel, LMIII continuous water change/ATO setup..

04/12/2014, 11:20 AM	#16
Buckeye Hydro .Registered Member Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: Cincinnati, Ohio Posts: 4,857	Feel free to give us a call when you are in front of the system and we can help you get things squared away. BTW - that 6800 pump is intended for 50 gpd and below membranes. Is that what you have? Russ

04/15/2014, 11:53 AM	#17
SpectraPure RC Sponsor Join Date: Jun 2003 Posts: 0	Seth, Please hook up the booster pump after the sediment and carbon. The sediment and carbon will protect the pump. One last bit of advice. Use a good sediment filter. If you have any questions please feel free to ask Jeremy __________________ *Innovators in water technology.* Since 1985!

08/09/2014, 03:01 AM	#18
Buckeye Hydro .Registered Member Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: Cincinnati, Ohio Posts: 4,857	This may help: