Very unsure of plumbing parts

[DrBoxedWine]

Hello everyone,

I'm getting ready to order the plumbing for my 75g reef with 30g sump. I have an Eheim 1262 return pump to use, and i'm unsure how all the lines, valves, and unions work.

Here is what i'm trying to do. I want to step the output from the eheim up to 1.5" and get it to a T of equal size. Then, both outputs from the T will go down to 1" gate valves (They're way cheaper than 1.5"). One line will run back to the skimmer chamber of the sump and eventually i'll run a dual reactor from here. The other line will run up to the return to the tank. I'm going to do one of those standard black U returns you get from BRS to get the water over the back of the tank. I want to use flexible tubing since this is my first tank, and I know i may need to make some adjustments after getting it all lined up and flex tubing will be more forgiving.

So, my questions...

How does the flex tube connect to all the unions? I'm having trouble figuring out what components to buy.

Do I need a check valve to prevent back siphoning during a power outage? The sump will have enough room to hold all the spill back, but is that a huge pain? Are the contents of the fuge going to be all over the sump if it overflows the baffles by 6"? That seems like it would be annoying since we get random, 2 minute power outages every couple of months. Do they reduce flow noticeably?

Just in general, what do you guys think of this plan? What am I missing here? I'm open and would love to hear all thoughts/suggestions/critiques.

Thanks in advance!

[apstreck]

A few months ago I did the plumbing for a 75g with a 20g sump. I highly recommend checking out the beananimal overflow. I did the extra work for it and really love the piece of mind and performance.

As far as connecting the flex hose, I rain flex straight from the pump to the DT, but I would assume that there is some kind of barb fitting+ hose clamp that you would use. Another option is flex PVC, which I believe can be glued like regular PVC.

Check valves from what I have read have a knack for failing in saltwater applications. What I did was drill a small hole right below the water line in the return nozzle; when the water falls below the hole, the siphon breaks. I was worried about water spraying everywhere when I turn the return back on but it was negligible.

Feel free to PM me with any questions. I am relatively new as well but feel like my first attempt went well and I did a lot of research on it.

Good luck!

[DrBoxedWine]

Thanks for the info. What pump are you using? I think I'm figuring out the union stuff. It almost seems as though using the T and a couple gate valves means I'll have to use pvc. That's not the end of the world tho.

I'm using a life reef overflow, I already had a 75g tank, I bought it brand new 1 year ago, so gonna stick with it. Any other thoughts?

[electrotech]

Originally Posted by DrBoxedWine

Hello everyone,

I'm getting ready to order the plumbing for my 75g reef with 30g sump. I have an Eheim 1262 return pump to use, and i'm unsure how all the lines, valves, and unions work.

Here is what i'm trying to do. I want to step the output from the eheim up to 1.5" and get it to a T of equal size. Then, both outputs from the T will go down to 1" gate valves (They're way cheaper than 1.5"). One line will run back to the skimmer chamber of the sump and eventually i'll run a dual reactor from here. The other line will run up to the return to the tank. I'm going to do one of those standard black U returns you get from BRS to get the water over the back of the tank. I want to use flexible tubing since this is my first tank, and I know i may need to make some adjustments after getting it all lined up and flex tubing will be more forgiving.

So, my questions...

How does the flex tube connect to all the unions? I'm having trouble figuring out what components to buy.

Do I need a check valve to prevent back siphoning during a power outage? The sump will have enough room to hold all the spill back, but is that a huge pain? Are the contents of the fuge going to be all over the sump if it overflows the baffles by 6"? That seems like it would be annoying since we get random, 2 minute power outages every couple of months. Do they reduce flow noticeably?

Just in general, what do you guys think of this plan? What am I missing here? I'm open and would love to hear all thoughts/suggestions/critiques.

Thanks in advance!

Don't use a check valve, small hole on the retun line to the tank just below the water surface will stop back siphon as soon as air reaches the hole. You will get a little siphon but not much. No need for a valve on the return to the tank and why are you putting a T in the return to tank to go back to sump? Are you just wanting to control the overall flow rate? If it's to run the skimmer I would T the drain not the return.

[W1ngz]

I spent a considerable amount of time at a few Reno stores in the plumbing aisle, as well as my LFS to work out joints, unions and plumbing. I brought in my pump, and the LFS gave me a corner to play 'Lego' in and helped me out. I paid twice what I could have online, and was happy to because all my parts were fitted together before I paid for them.

Salt and critters get stuck in one way valves. Better to not have one. Raise the nozzle and drill the siphon-break hole. Match the sump volume to the back-flow, and you're set. A case of 'less is more'.

[apstreck]

Thanks for the info. What pump are you using? I think I'm figuring out the union stuff. It almost seems as though using the T and a couple gate valves means I'll have to use pvc. That's not the end of the world tho.

Im using the eheim compact+3000, about 700 gph. It's also fully adjustable so no need for a gate valve on the return.