Red slime issues...

Speedfreak95 · 10/06/2014, 10:25 PM

As the title says I'm having issues with red slime... Nothing major but I am seeing it begin to spread and want it gone..

I've cut down the lighting.. Cut down on feeding. I've used ro/di water since day 1 my tds meter reads 0. Added a new skimmer to the tank and have tuned it pretty well. What else do I need to do after scrubbing and a water change the slime seemed to come back right away.

Are my lights too old and causing this? I'm looking to try red slime remover. As all reviews go I've read bad things and great things? Helppppp

ska d · 10/06/2014, 10:53 PM

Red slime or cyano bacteria usually pops up in areas where there is to little flow. Try adjusting your power heads to reduce dead spots. If your tank is less than 6months it's pretty normal to get little outbreaks of cyano and brown diatoms . These will clear up on there own over time, as long as your keeping up with your regular maintenance. Its why we calk it the uglies.

Shaummy · 10/07/2014, 06:12 AM

How are your Phosphate and Nitrate readings? I had Cyano when my tank was fairly new.

How often are you changing water? Are you able to siphon out the Cyano while doing so? Siphoning and GFO brought it under control for me.

apstreck · 10/07/2014, 08:52 AM

Don't be tempted to use antibiotics to treat it. I made the bad decision (after a few beers) of adding some marycin to my tank because I was frustrated with a cyano outbreak in my 4 month old tank... no casualties but that was over a week ago and I still haven't been able to skim even after a huge water change. On the lowest setting it fills the cup in like 90 seconds with water. And that was with 10% of the recommended dose. It did kill the cyano, but I'm worried that since I can't skim anything out, the dieoff is going to mess with my parameters.

amber3k · 10/07/2014, 09:45 AM

My lfs told me to use an antibiotic. I did and it worked for about a week. That was a couple months ago and I'm still fighting it. In hindsight, I will not be using the antibiotic again.

Speedfreak95 · 10/07/2014, 09:52 PM

Okay.. so dedicated some time messing with the tank.. Seems ever since I added my glass tops my temp has went out of control.. I first re aimed and lowered the power heads still some dead spots going to keep adjusting.. I got rid of the glass tops and I added egg crate I've seen the temp drop 4-5 degrees (its still 78 degrees but way better than 84-85) only problem is the light is considerably dimmer than before not sure if that will aid in killing the bacteria/algae?

As far as water changes I usually change about 7 gallons every 3 weeks (might not be enough but I do run a reef octopus skimmer). I run an ATO with Ro/di water I make.

Seems everyone is against the red slime remover? Might hold off I have a friend that works for aquarium maintenance and swears by it was going to buy it tomorrow.

Xavibear · 10/08/2014, 02:10 AM

gfo reactor is your best bet. Get rid of the egg crate. It blocks a lot of light.

What kind of lights do you have & how old are they? What is you stocking like?

Speedfreak95 · 10/08/2014, 11:50 AM

Yeah I just ordered some clear 1/4 screen and going to make different covers.. The lift system is a 4 bulb t5 system. Not entirely sure how old the bulbs are they could be a year or older.. Was looking at buying 2 ebay led 165w but right now looking at cleaning up the slime and get the octopus tuned before I do anything.

4 stocking I have 2 clowns, fire fish, yellow head jawfish, kole tang, royal gramma, flame angel, skunk shrimp, peppermint shrimp and hermits

Sk8r · 10/08/2014, 12:17 PM

GFO is to absorb phosphate. Red slime doesn't depend on phosphate. While it's a good thing if you have phosphate, it doesn't help if you don't.

10/06/2014, 10:25 PM	#1
Speedfreak95 Registered Member Join Date: Jun 2014 Location: Tampa Posts: 56	Red slime issues... As the title says I'm having issues with red slime... Nothing major but I am seeing it begin to spread and want it gone.. I've cut down the lighting.. Cut down on feeding. I've used ro/di water since day 1 my tds meter reads 0. Added a new skimmer to the tank and have tuned it pretty well. What else do I need to do after scrubbing and a water change the slime seemed to come back right away. Are my lights too old and causing this? I'm looking to try red slime remover. As all reviews go I've read bad things and great things? Helppppp __________________ Always wanted a salt tank.. Now that I'm running I realize why people constantly upgrade bigger haha :/ Current Tank Info: 65 gallon drilled tank, reef octopus nwb 150, jbj ato, 20 gallon sump, filter sock, 2-3 inch sand bed, 4 bulb t5, 2 hydorkoralia power heads, glass tops (front always open), eheim heater, bulk reef 75gpd ro/di with 50 gpd upgrade kit

10/07/2014, 06:12 AM	#3
Shaummy Registered Member Join Date: Jul 2001 Location: Chicago burbs Posts: 857	How are your Phosphate and Nitrate readings? I had Cyano when my tank was fairly new. How often are you changing water? Are you able to siphon out the Cyano while doing so? Siphoning and GFO brought it under control for me. __________________ Shaummy Current Tank Info: Current Tank Info: 90g mixed reef, hermits, snails,Lyretail Anthias,Orange back Fairy Wrasse,Blue Reef Chromis,small blue tang, Flame Hawk, Royal Gramma

10/07/2014, 09:52 PM	#6
Speedfreak95 Registered Member Join Date: Jun 2014 Location: Tampa Posts: 56	Okay.. so dedicated some time messing with the tank.. Seems ever since I added my glass tops my temp has went out of control.. I first re aimed and lowered the power heads still some dead spots going to keep adjusting.. I got rid of the glass tops and I added egg crate I've seen the temp drop 4-5 degrees (its still 78 degrees but way better than 84-85) only problem is the light is considerably dimmer than before not sure if that will aid in killing the bacteria/algae? As far as water changes I usually change about 7 gallons every 3 weeks (might not be enough but I do run a reef octopus skimmer). I run an ATO with Ro/di water I make. Seems everyone is against the red slime remover? Might hold off I have a friend that works for aquarium maintenance and swears by it was going to buy it tomorrow. __________________ Always wanted a salt tank.. Now that I'm running I realize why people constantly upgrade bigger haha :/ Current Tank Info: 65 gallon drilled tank, reef octopus nwb 150, jbj ato, 20 gallon sump, filter sock, 2-3 inch sand bed, 4 bulb t5, 2 hydorkoralia power heads, glass tops (front always open), eheim heater, bulk reef 75gpd ro/di with 50 gpd upgrade kit

10/08/2014, 02:10 AM	#7
Xavibear Crazy Prophet Join Date: Nov 2010 Location: Worcester, MA Posts: 1,008	gfo reactor is your best bet. Get rid of the egg crate. It blocks a lot of light. What kind of lights do you have & how old are they? What is you stocking like? __________________ 36g bowfront Current Tank Info: Pair of Occellaris clowns, Royal gramma, Yellow Watchman Goby/Tiger Pistol Shrimp, Blue tuxedo urchin, Fire shrimp, Trochus snails, Cerith snails, Nassarius snails, Ricordea mushroom, Kenya tree, Acan brain & Frogspawn Last edited by Xavibear; 10/08/2014 at 02:16 AM.

10/08/2014, 11:50 AM	#8
Speedfreak95 Registered Member Join Date: Jun 2014 Location: Tampa Posts: 56	Yeah I just ordered some clear 1/4 screen and going to make different covers.. The lift system is a 4 bulb t5 system. Not entirely sure how old the bulbs are they could be a year or older.. Was looking at buying 2 ebay led 165w but right now looking at cleaning up the slime and get the octopus tuned before I do anything. 4 stocking I have 2 clowns, fire fish, yellow head jawfish, kole tang, royal gramma, flame angel, skunk shrimp, peppermint shrimp and hermits __________________ Always wanted a salt tank.. Now that I'm running I realize why people constantly upgrade bigger haha :/ Current Tank Info: 65 gallon drilled tank, reef octopus nwb 150, jbj ato, 20 gallon sump, filter sock, 2-3 inch sand bed, 4 bulb t5, 2 hydorkoralia power heads, glass tops (front always open), eheim heater, bulk reef 75gpd ro/di with 50 gpd upgrade kit

10/06/2014, 10:53 PM	#2
ska d Registered Member Join Date: Aug 2012 Location: toronto Posts: 508	Red slime or cyano bacteria usually pops up in areas where there is to little flow. Try adjusting your power heads to reduce dead spots. If your tank is less than 6months it's pretty normal to get little outbreaks of cyano and brown diatoms . These will clear up on there own over time, as long as your keeping up with your regular maintenance. Its why we calk it the uglies.

10/07/2014, 08:52 AM	#4
apstreck Registered Member Join Date: Jun 2014 Location: Cincinnati Posts: 173	Don't be tempted to use antibiotics to treat it. I made the bad decision (after a few beers) of adding some marycin to my tank because I was frustrated with a cyano outbreak in my 4 month old tank... no casualties but that was over a week ago and I still haven't been able to skim even after a huge water change. On the lowest setting it fills the cup in like 90 seconds with water. And that was with 10% of the recommended dose. It did kill the cyano, but I'm worried that since I can't skim anything out, the dieoff is going to mess with my parameters.

10/07/2014, 09:45 AM	#5
amber3k Registered Member Join Date: Sep 2014 Location: Post Falls, Idaho Posts: 251	My lfs told me to use an antibiotic. I did and it worked for about a week. That was a couple months ago and I'm still fighting it. In hindsight, I will not be using the antibiotic again.

10/08/2014, 12:17 PM	#9
Sk8r RC Mod Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: Spokane WA Posts: 34,628 Blog Entries: 55	GFO is to absorb phosphate. Red slime doesn't depend on phosphate. While it's a good thing if you have phosphate, it doesn't help if you don't. __________________ Sk8r Salinity 1.024-6; alkalinity 8.3-9.3 on KH scale; calcium 420; magnesium 1300, temp 78-80, nitrate .2. Ammonia 0. No filters: lps tank. Alk and cal won't rise if mg is low. Current Tank Info: 105g AquaVim wedge, yellow tang, sailfin blenny,royal gramma, ocellaris clown pair, yellow watchman, 100 microceriths, 25 tiny hermits, a 4" conch, 1" nassarius, recovering from 2 year hiatus with daily water change of 10%.