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Unread 10/15/2014, 11:49 PM   #1
Jmunk
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Red face First Reef - Advice Needed

So here's my first reef I ever had, it's almost exactly six months old. 90G



My questions are: I do have some algae problems. It looks like cynao, or some sort of green/brown algae. I use RODI water for water changes, and I have a skimmer rated for 150G. I am however, not measuring / taking action against phosphates. Should my next purchase be a GFO reactor? Really wanna get rid of this algae, and maybe it's because my tank is still relatively young, but idk if 6 months is "young". Also, rock in the tank is the only rock I have. Could it be that if I add some more live rock that would help? I think I only have about 70 pounds in there.

Last question, is there any ideas you guys think I could do to make the tank look better/spice it up? Aquascape etc. I'm open for opinions! Thanks for the long read.


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Unread 10/16/2014, 12:18 AM   #2
iceet
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Your tank looks amazing. Look at all that purple coraline, I would love for it to grow like that in mine.

Do you have a sump? Running a refugium with chaeto could potentially help starve the algae in your DT.


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Unread 10/16/2014, 12:25 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by iceet View Post
Your tank looks amazing. Look at all that purple coraline, I would love for it to grow like that in mine.

Do you have a sump? Running a refugium with chaeto could potentially help starve the algae in your DT.
Thank you!

I do, but I don't have a refugium. That stuff just sounds too complicated/expensive so i never really looked into it.


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Unread 10/16/2014, 12:30 AM   #4
iceet
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Thank you!

I do, but I don't have a refugium. That stuff just sounds too complicated/expensive so i never really looked into it.
It's really not that bad. It's as simple as throwing a ball of chaeto into a breeder net/box and attaching a light above it. You can also look into an algae turf scrubber. You mentioned you haven't tested your phosphate levels. Maybe some of your parameters are off (nitrates and phosphates). If you test for those, then you would know which one to try to reduce and which course of action would be best.

Perhaps it's also time to replenish your cleanup crew (snails mainly for alge).


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Unread 10/16/2014, 12:49 AM   #5
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Quote:
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It's really not that bad. It's as simple as throwing a ball of chaeto into a breeder net/box and attaching a light above it. You can also look into an algae turf scrubber. You mentioned you haven't tested your phosphate levels. Maybe some of your parameters are off (nitrates and phosphates). If you test for those, then you would know which one to try to reduce and which course of action would be best.

Perhaps it's also time to replenish your cleanup crew (snails mainly for alge).
Yeah might have to look into that as well.

I'm also thinking I might not have enough flow? I have one MP40 on a 90G that the LFS said would be more than enough, but idk.


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Unread 10/16/2014, 01:10 AM   #6
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Yeah might have to look into that as well.

I'm also thinking I might not have enough flow? I have one MP40 on a 90G that the LFS said would be more than enough, but idk.
It's definitely hard to reach all the dead spots with one pump, no matter how strong it is. Don't forget, you have a return pump as well.


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Unread 10/16/2014, 05:37 AM   #7
mattgumaer
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I'd suggest getting a phosphate test. I have the Hanna low range checker (not cheap but easy to use). Then, if your phosphates are high, I'd consider adding a GFO reactor. I had a single MP40 on a 90 for a while but ultimately added a second. I liked the additional flow but I don't think it did much (anything?) to the algae.

I've always run a small refugium in middle section of my three section sump. In my case, it's nothing more than a clump of chaeto and a cheap Home Depot clamp-on light. I run the refugium light essentially when my main lights are off. Because I haven't run a tank without a refugium, I can't speak to whether adding one is likely to reduce algae although it seems to make sense that it would do so since your macroalgae will be consuming nutrients that might otherwise feed the nuisance algae.

Matt


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Unread 10/16/2014, 08:11 AM   #8
Mark9
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Tanks looks fantastic, great aquascape.
If it was me, I wouldn't change anything, just get a few more corals.
Maybe even a clam?
For the algae, get 5 or 6 Trochus snails, they will clear it up.
Consider getting a fighting conch for the sandbed.
Again, tank looks really really nice.


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Unread 10/16/2014, 12:12 PM   #9
Jmunk
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Tanks looks fantastic, great aquascape.
If it was me, I wouldn't change anything, just get a few more corals.
Maybe even a clam?
For the algae, get 5 or 6 Trochus snails, they will clear it up.
Consider getting a fighting conch for the sandbed.
Again, tank looks really really nice.
Thank you so much!

Def will have to replace cleanup crew soon, think that could be half my problem.


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Unread 10/16/2014, 12:15 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mattgumaer View Post
I'd suggest getting a phosphate test. I have the Hanna low range checker (not cheap but easy to use). Then, if your phosphates are high, I'd consider adding a GFO reactor. I had a single MP40 on a 90 for a while but ultimately added a second. I liked the additional flow but I don't think it did much (anything?) to the algae.

I've always run a small refugium in middle section of my three section sump. In my case, it's nothing more than a clump of chaeto and a cheap Home Depot clamp-on light. I run the refugium light essentially when my main lights are off. Because I haven't run a tank without a refugium, I can't speak to whether adding one is likely to reduce algae although it seems to make sense that it would do so since your macroalgae will be consuming nutrients that might otherwise feed the nuisance algae.

Matt
Gotcha, wouldn't the phosphate levels be zero even if I did have a phosphate problem?

What's the actual way to know if phosphates are causing the problem?


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Unread 10/16/2014, 12:48 PM   #11
edinphilly
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Be patient its a new tank. I'm at one year and the algae dramatically decreased in the second six months. Agree with adding macro algae to your sump and creating a refugium. Keep it simple. I'd go with more live rock. It means more filtration, more hiding spots, and more room for coral. All good things. Be careful about adding too much CUC. If they clean and then starve they'll die off and create more problems.


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Unread 10/16/2014, 12:54 PM   #12
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Tank looks terrific, I say don't change anything. The Blenny looks starved though, have you cut back on feedings due to the algae? If so, don't, and if you decide to run a small amount of GFO in a reactor then certainly increase feedings or the corals might suffer as well.

As others have said, the algae issue gets better after a year, or really you might just learn to tolerate it.

Since this is a 90 gallon, a yellow tang will do wonders for algae.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jmunk View Post
Last question, is there any ideas you guys think I could do to make the tank look better/spice it up? Aquascape etc. I'm open for opinions! Thanks for the long read.
Acropora?


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Unread 10/16/2014, 01:04 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by markalot View Post
Tank looks terrific, I say don't change anything. The Blenny looks starved though, have you cut back on feedings due to the algae? If so, don't, and if you decide to run a small amount of GFO in a reactor then certainly increase feedings or the corals might suffer as well.

As others have said, the algae issue gets better after a year, or really you might just learn to tolerate it.

Since this is a 90 gallon, a yellow tang will do wonders for algae.



Acropora?
Thank you!!

I have actually, but maybe if/when I add a GFO, I'll up the feedings like you said.

Is a GFO something that I should really be looking into? Or will it not make that much of a difference?


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Unread 10/16/2014, 01:40 PM   #14
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I don't run any, I let the tangs eat any algae. IMO phosphate reduction harm's more new tanks than high phosphate ever will. Feed more now, keep the fish healthy.


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Unread 10/16/2014, 06:25 PM   #15
itzonlithai
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A Refugium will help, but unless it's a large one, relative to your tank, i don't think it will be worth the effort. What's your water change schedule like? Maybe up the percentage per week slowly or try GFO like others said.

From the FTS, your tank looks great, loving the scape.


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Unread 10/18/2014, 03:57 PM   #16
Mebbid
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Without a phosphate reading, its really impossible to give any real advice concerning changes with your tank as far as equipment goes. They might help, they might not.

As for changes to your scape, I love the rockwork. But how about adding some branching stony corals high up in the system? Maybe a montipora digitata or birdsnest. They would serve to break up the lines of your rock quite well.


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Unread 10/19/2014, 12:45 AM   #17
Jmunk
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Without a phosphate reading, its really impossible to give any real advice concerning changes with your tank as far as equipment goes. They might help, they might not.

As for changes to your scape, I love the rockwork. But how about adding some branching stony corals high up in the system? Maybe a montipora digitata or birdsnest. They would serve to break up the lines of your rock quite well.
Read my mind! Was already planning on doing that awhile ago. Once I get everything perfect I'll def add some SPSs up there.

Also going to add another branch of rockwork on the bottom towards the front of the tank for more coral real estate!


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Unread 10/19/2014, 08:24 AM   #18
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I love the aquascape and wouldn't change a thing. It looks really natural. I would keep the sand area clear and add height if anything.


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75 with Eshopps 100 sump, Reef Octopus 110 SSS skimmer, Sicce 3.0 pump, Maxspect Gyre 130, 2 x Kessil a360W, mangroves plus clip-on bulb in sump

75 FW planted with CO2, 12 gallon cherry shrimp tank
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Unread 10/19/2014, 12:00 PM   #19
Jmunk
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I love the aquascape and wouldn't change a thing. It looks really natural. I would keep the sand area clear and add height if anything.
Thanks man!


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Unread 10/19/2014, 03:16 PM   #20
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You're welcome!


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Unread 10/19/2014, 07:38 PM   #21
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Get some chemipure elite and a sea hare, makes the dt crystal clear


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