What do you add first after the cycle?

Mythicalelf · 03/08/2015, 06:31 PM

Hey my tank has been cycling for @2weeks. It is on the down side of the cycle ammonia is now at .25 but Nitrites and Nitrates are still high at @2.5 and 10. Good news is they are a lot better than they were.

My question is what do I add and in what order?
My tank is a 29 Biocube with stock PC lights and a stunner led strip
Here is my wish stock list

CUC
10 Florida Ceriths
18 Dwarf Ceriths
7 Nassarius
5 Nerites
5 Hermits

Fish
Firefish maybe purple not sure yet
Pair probably picasso or snowflake but maybe just regular clownfish
Royal Gramma
Yellow Watchman Goby and Pistol shrimp pair

Corals
Hammer
Xenia
Gren Star Polyp Maybe
Zoas
Mushroom
Ricordia
Brain Favia or Favites maybe
Frogspawn

What should I add 1st? Then what?
If there is anything that won't work or something that you would add/delete please let me know.
I'll post picture in just a sec of tank.

Mythicalelf · 03/08/2015, 06:34 PM

Mythicalelf · 03/08/2015, 06:35 PM

Mythicalelf · 03/08/2015, 06:36 PM

#1 actinic and stunner
#2 daylight with other 2

Sk8r · 03/08/2015, 07:35 PM

start with 3. See if they're ok. Then add others.

Azedenkae · 03/08/2015, 08:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mythicalelf

Hey my tank has been cycling for @2weeks. It is on the down side of the cycle ammonia is now at .25 but Nitrites and Nitrates are still high at @2.5 and 10. Good news is they are a lot better than they were.

My question is what do I add and in what order?
My tank is a 29 Biocube with stock PC lights and a stunner led strip
Here is my wish stock list

CUC
10 Florida Ceriths
18 Dwarf Ceriths
7 Nassarius
5 Nerites
5 Hermits

Fish
Firefish maybe purple not sure yet
Pair probably picasso or snowflake but maybe just regular clownfish
Royal Gramma
Yellow Watchman Goby and Pistol shrimp pair

Corals
Hammer
Xenia
Gren Star Polyp Maybe
Zoas
Mushroom
Ricordia
Brain Favia or Favites maybe
Frogspawn

What should I add 1st? Then what?
If there is anything that won't work or something that you would add/delete please let me know.
I'll post picture in just a sec of tank.

Your rocks are pretty clean.

I would add all the corals and fish. Then CUC when they have something to dine on.

CuzzA · 03/08/2015, 08:21 PM

I would add the firefish after your cycle to continue building your bacteria, wait for your diatom bloom, then start adding your cuc. After that I'd add the goby and shrimp, then add "one" clown and the royal gramma. Two clowns could lead to problems in a small tank and if they pair up they could end up killing your other fish to defend their territory. Do you have a plan to quarantine these fish?

As far as corals, I would add the hard corals, hammer, frogspawn and favia last once your water has stabilized chemically (calcium, alkalinity, magnesium) and you've done your homework about keeping hard corals and the water chemistry necessary to grow them.

FraggledRock · 03/08/2015, 08:23 PM

nice rocks. luckily they will turn all manner of colors soon =P

Stevenliu9 · 03/08/2015, 08:28 PM

Add the clean up crew first- hermits are bullet proof, then some snails
then fish, slowly, and corals last after everything stabilized.

Mythicalelf · 03/08/2015, 09:16 PM

Thanks guys for the replies.
I know you can't really see in the picture but there is diatom on some of the rock and a little on the sand bed in the rear.

I was wondering if I could quarantine them in a Rubbermaid tub?

Threshold · 03/08/2015, 09:22 PM

I am a newbie, so take my opinion with a large grain of salt... ...but, I think your aquascape is great!

Mythicalelf · 03/08/2015, 09:29 PM

I am a newbie, so take my opinion with a large grain of salt... ...but, I think your aquascape is great!

Thanks. It has an arch on every side. I'm getting a Tonga branch that is fused together and going to lay it across the top to make a shelf. It will end up being a cave with many ways in and out.

What's in there now was 3 large rocks till my hammer and chisel got a hold of them.

Azedenkae · 03/08/2015, 10:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mythicalelf

Thanks guys for the replies.
I know you can't really see in the picture but there is diatom on some of the rock and a little on the sand bed in the rear.

I was wondering if I could quarantine them in a Rubbermaid tub?

In that case it doesn't matter, really, about the CUC. You can add everything along with the rest.

And yes you can QT in a rubbermaid tub. In which case there wouldn't be a lot of space, I don't think, so get the Clowns last, the other fish first.

Mythicalelf · 03/08/2015, 10:41 PM

The Rubbermaid tub I have is 18 gallon.

Would adding all them at one time make to much of load on tank?

Azedenkae · 03/08/2015, 11:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mythicalelf

The Rubbermaid tub I have is 18 gallon.

Would adding all them at one time make to much of load on tank?

If the tank is not cycled, yes. If the tank is cycled, then no.

The point of the initial cycle IS to ensure that the amount of microbes have grown to a point where it can, in conjunction with the rest of the filtration system, handle the bioload of the stock. Obviously if it can't do that then your tank is not cycled.

If your microbial load has to play catch up AFTER adding live stock, then it is definitely not cycled. And not at all good for the live stock.

As for the rubbermaid tub, that should be fine.

CuzzA · 03/09/2015, 06:09 AM

The only issue I see with a Rubbermaid tub is it would make observation difficult. Do some research on qt, but my suggestion would be to pick up a ten gallon tank and a bio wheel filter or an air sponge filter. If you use a bio wheel take the filter pad from the bio wheel filter and remove the carbon inside it and put it in your 29 gallon to build up bacteria on it. Of course you would need to be ghost feeding your 29 to feed the bacteria. You can buy bacteria in a bottle too. (Bio Spira or Dr. Tims that could be added directly to the qt). Add a few pvc fittings to the qt so the fish can hide and I would keep a 5 gallon bucket of saltwater mixed and ready in case you have a spike in ammonia or you overdose a med and need to perform a quick water change.

Once you're set up there's 2 ways to approach qt. Either proactively treat or reactively treat the fish. The former will be just going ahead and treat the fish with or without signs of a problem. The latter will be based on observing the fish for signs of parasites and infections and then treating. The obvious and most likely parasites are ich, flukes, brooklynella, velvet and skin infections (especially the royal gramma). A good all around proactive med concoction is copper and furan. However, the furan will make it imossible to read a copper test, so you'll want to get the copper level right in the qt and then dose your water change water to maintain the correct level. Freshwater dipping your fish before adding to qt is good practice as well. Especially because any parasites on the fish will jump off alerting you that this fish need medical attention.

Some might argue that with only a 29 gallon tank don't bother qting because it will be easy to remove the fish and then treat, but I would strongly disagree. First you want to get comfortable and gain experience with qting and treating fish and second if you introduce something to your display your going to have remove all the fish and let it sit fallow and a tank without fish sucks.

I hope this helps and I'm sure others can offer some qt advice.

FraggledRock · 03/09/2015, 07:52 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mythicalelf

Thanks guys for the replies.
I know you can't really see in the picture but there is diatom on some of the rock and a little on the sand bed in the rear.

I was wondering if I could quarantine them in a Rubbermaid tub?

quarantine the rock?

nah man. you want diatoms. its the progress.

you are no where near the browning you are going to get =P

::evil grin::

BigCountry74 · 03/09/2015, 08:39 AM

I would start with 1 tank bred clown fish

Dmorty217 · 03/09/2015, 10:36 AM

CUC then the most peaceful fish that you plan on getting

03/08/2015, 07:35 PM	#5
Sk8r RC Mod Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: Spokane WA Posts: 34,628 Blog Entries: 55	start with 3. See if they're ok. Then add others. __________________ Sk8r Salinity 1.024-6; alkalinity 8.3-9.3 on KH scale; calcium 420; magnesium 1300, temp 78-80, nitrate .2. Ammonia 0. No filters: lps tank. Alk and cal won't rise if mg is low. Current Tank Info: 105g AquaVim wedge, yellow tang, sailfin blenny,royal gramma, ocellaris clown pair, yellow watchman, 100 microceriths, 25 tiny hermits, a 4" conch, 1" nassarius, recovering from 2 year hiatus with daily water change of 10%.

03/08/2015, 08:23 PM	#8
FraggledRock Registered Member Join Date: Dec 2014 Location: New York, New York Posts: 2,185	nice rocks. luckily they will turn all manner of colors soon =P __________________ “For most of history, man has had to fight nature to survive; in this century he is beginning to realize that, in order to survive, he must protect it.”― Jacques-Yves Cousteau MarineBio.org Current Tank Info: 40 Gallon Breeder w/ Bean Animal Overflow 20G Sump, Mixed Reef.

03/08/2015, 08:28 PM	#9
Stevenliu9 Registered Member Join Date: Aug 2014 Location: Madison WI Posts: 795	Add the clean up crew first- hermits are bullet proof, then some snails then fish, slowly, and corals last after everything stabilized. __________________ Steven Liu See More at: bluemarineart.com Current Tank Info: 180 Mix Reef + 28G Seahorse Species Tank

03/09/2015, 08:39 AM	#18
BigCountry74 Registered Member Join Date: Feb 2012 Location: Charlotte, NC Posts: 1,761	I would start with 1 tank bred clown fish __________________ 135g mixed reef (retired) http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2132815 Current 40g reef http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2483250 Current Tank Info: 40g bare bottom reef

03/09/2015, 10:36 AM	#19
Dmorty217 Saltwater Addict Join Date: Jan 2012 Location: Vandalia OHIO Posts: 11,624	CUC then the most peaceful fish that you plan on getting __________________ Fish are not disposable commodities, but a worthwhile investment that can be maintained and enjoyed for many years, providing one is willing to take the time to understand their requirements and needs Current Tank Info: 625g, 220g sump, RD3 230w, Vectra L1 on a closed loop, 3 MP60s, MP40. Several QTs

03/08/2015, 06:31 PM	#1
Mythicalelf Registered Member Join Date: Feb 2015 Location: USA Posts: 315	What do you add first after the cycle? Hey my tank has been cycling for @2weeks. It is on the down side of the cycle ammonia is now at .25 but Nitrites and Nitrates are still high at @2.5 and 10. Good news is they are a lot better than they were. My question is what do I add and in what order? My tank is a 29 Biocube with stock PC lights and a stunner led strip Here is my wish stock list CUC 10 Florida Ceriths 18 Dwarf Ceriths 7 Nassarius 5 Nerites 5 Hermits Fish Firefish maybe purple not sure yet Pair probably picasso or snowflake but maybe just regular clownfish Royal Gramma Yellow Watchman Goby and Pistol shrimp pair Corals Hammer Xenia Gren Star Polyp Maybe Zoas Mushroom Ricordia Brain Favia or Favites maybe Frogspawn What should I add 1st? Then what? If there is anything that won't work or something that you would add/delete please let me know. I'll post picture in just a sec of tank.

03/08/2015, 06:34 PM	#2
Mythicalelf Registered Member Join Date: Feb 2015 Location: USA Posts: 315

03/08/2015, 06:35 PM	#3
Mythicalelf Registered Member Join Date: Feb 2015 Location: USA Posts: 315

03/08/2015, 06:36 PM	#4
Mythicalelf Registered Member Join Date: Feb 2015 Location: USA Posts: 315	#1 actinic and stunner #2 daylight with other 2

03/08/2015, 08:21 PM	#7
CuzzA Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2014 Location: Palm Harbor, FL Posts: 2,997	I would add the firefish after your cycle to continue building your bacteria, wait for your diatom bloom, then start adding your cuc. After that I'd add the goby and shrimp, then add "one" clown and the royal gramma. Two clowns could lead to problems in a small tank and if they pair up they could end up killing your other fish to defend their territory. Do you have a plan to quarantine these fish? As far as corals, I would add the hard corals, hammer, frogspawn and favia last once your water has stabilized chemically (calcium, alkalinity, magnesium) and you've done your homework about keeping hard corals and the water chemistry necessary to grow them.

03/08/2015, 09:16 PM	#10
Mythicalelf Registered Member Join Date: Feb 2015 Location: USA Posts: 315	Thanks guys for the replies. I know you can't really see in the picture but there is diatom on some of the rock and a little on the sand bed in the rear. I was wondering if I could quarantine them in a Rubbermaid tub?

03/08/2015, 09:22 PM	#11
Threshold Registered Member Join Date: Mar 2015 Location: Round Lake, IL Posts: 106	I am a newbie, so take my opinion with a large grain of salt... ...but, I think your aquascape is great!

03/08/2015, 09:29 PM	#12
Mythicalelf Registered Member Join Date: Feb 2015 Location: USA Posts: 315	I am a newbie, so take my opinion with a large grain of salt... ...but, I think your aquascape is great! Thanks. It has an arch on every side. I'm getting a Tonga branch that is fused together and going to lay it across the top to make a shelf. It will end up being a cave with many ways in and out. What's in there now was 3 large rocks till my hammer and chisel got a hold of them.

03/08/2015, 10:41 PM	#14
Mythicalelf Registered Member Join Date: Feb 2015 Location: USA Posts: 315	The Rubbermaid tub I have is 18 gallon. Would adding all them at one time make to much of load on tank?

03/09/2015, 06:09 AM	#16
CuzzA Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2014 Location: Palm Harbor, FL Posts: 2,997	The only issue I see with a Rubbermaid tub is it would make observation difficult. Do some research on qt, but my suggestion would be to pick up a ten gallon tank and a bio wheel filter or an air sponge filter. If you use a bio wheel take the filter pad from the bio wheel filter and remove the carbon inside it and put it in your 29 gallon to build up bacteria on it. Of course you would need to be ghost feeding your 29 to feed the bacteria. You can buy bacteria in a bottle too. (Bio Spira or Dr. Tims that could be added directly to the qt). Add a few pvc fittings to the qt so the fish can hide and I would keep a 5 gallon bucket of saltwater mixed and ready in case you have a spike in ammonia or you overdose a med and need to perform a quick water change. Once you're set up there's 2 ways to approach qt. Either proactively treat or reactively treat the fish. The former will be just going ahead and treat the fish with or without signs of a problem. The latter will be based on observing the fish for signs of parasites and infections and then treating. The obvious and most likely parasites are ich, flukes, brooklynella, velvet and skin infections (especially the royal gramma). A good all around proactive med concoction is copper and furan. However, the furan will make it imossible to read a copper test, so you'll want to get the copper level right in the qt and then dose your water change water to maintain the correct level. Freshwater dipping your fish before adding to qt is good practice as well. Especially because any parasites on the fish will jump off alerting you that this fish need medical attention. Some might argue that with only a 29 gallon tank don't bother qting because it will be easy to remove the fish and then treat, but I would strongly disagree. First you want to get comfortable and gain experience with qting and treating fish and second if you introduce something to your display your going to have remove all the fish and let it sit fallow and a tank without fish sucks. I hope this helps and I'm sure others can offer some qt advice.