First time setting up a sump, help

erik7281 · 03/23/2015, 10:45 PM

Like the title says, this is my first time setting up a sump tank to 120 gallon leemar tank with a corner overflow and 2 return vents.

I have a 25 gallon biofil-1 sump. It has 3 chambers, a water level pump thing (like toilets do), and output pipe.

I need suggestions on:
1) What kind of return pump will be able to pump back water efficiently and quietly? I was previously suggested a Rio HF 32, not sure where or how to hook it up to this.
2) What kind of pipes or tubes do I need and where do I get them from?

3) What goes in each chamber?

I am planning on putting a heater and a bubble magus curve 5 protein skimmer in the sump and some macroalgaes.

Please see the pics below and provide specific feedback.

thegrun · 03/23/2015, 10:57 PM

I'm guessing the sump was designed as a wet/dry filter with bioballs, which is no longer in favor for saltwater tank, particularly reef tanks due to the wet/dry set-up producing a lot of nitrates. The picture isn't clear, going from right to left does the first divider extend all the way to the bottom? How about the second divider? If it were my sump I would make some major changes but it doesn't sound like you are the do it yourself type of aquarist. Give us a little more information regarding the baffles and I'll try to figure out an easy solution.

erik7281 · 03/23/2015, 11:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by thegrun

I'm guessing the sump was designed as a wet/dry filter with bioballs, which is no longer in favor for saltwater tank, particularly reef tanks due to the wet/dry set-up producing a lot of nitrates. The picture isn't clear, going from right to left does the first divider extend all the way to the bottom? How about the second divider? If it were my sump I would make some major changes but it doesn't sound like you are the do it yourself type of aquarist. Give us a little more information regarding the baffles and I'll try to figure out an easy solution.

Thank you for the questions. Both dividers do not touch the bottom of the sump. And the divider closest to the white pipe is taller than the other. I never suggested I was going to use bio balls. I asked for suggestions...back to topic...I have been researching on how to plumb it. I am looking for something not too complex. Like the title says, it's my first time and I don't want to flood my house "/

wnehez · 03/24/2015, 08:00 AM

The "water level pump thing" looks like whoever had it before had it directly hooked up to an RO/DI unit as the auto top off. I would not recommend this. Read a bunch of horror stories about that sort of hookup. Im trying to figure out why (1) neither dividers come all the way to the bottom. (2) If the plumbing on the left with the ball valve was used for an external return pump or just a drain for water changes. AS for what pipes to use, its up to you. Some people prefer to hard plumb with PVC or use flexible hose. I currently have a mix of both. If your sump is right below your display tank, I would go with rubber hose from HD or Lowes from your return pump, then a T connector to split the return to both return vents. as for the drains, I think Flex PVC would be good or just rubber hose again. Just be sure its secure in the sump. The overflows should be able to handle just about any amount of flow within reason. Look at pumps flow rate. You want to return about 3-4 times your total water volume per hour. So for you 120 gallon tank, you would want a pump that would be 360-480 gallons per hour at 5' head height. I would leave one chamber empty (or some people like to use filter socks from the drains) for the drains to empty into, then put live rock and macroalgae in the second chamber, and then the return pump in the 3rd chamber.

Kyle461 · 03/24/2015, 08:01 AM

1st chamber: Skimmer if you can fit it
2nd chamber: possible refugium if you want
3rd chamber: return pump

My return pump has suction cups on the bottom and sits in my third chamber. It returns the water through vinyl tubing (I may switch to pvc soon). The toilet "thing" maybe be a float switch that can trigger a ATO system?

gone fishin · 03/24/2015, 08:43 AM

To me it looks like you only have a partition and not a weir set up. I would say the float switch is set up for an ATO and the bulkhead indicates you could use an external return pump.

If you do not have a weir set up in the sump then I would think you will end up with a lot of bubbles in the DT. I would not use the float set up for a top off, if the float sticks you could end up putting a lot of fresh water into the tank. At a minimum your salinity will drop, worst case you end up with water on the floor.

There is a pump calculator on the home page, left hand side about half way down.

erik7281 · 03/24/2015, 06:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wnehez

The "water level pump thing" looks like whoever had it before had it directly hooked up to an RO/DI unit as the auto top off. I would not recommend this. Read a bunch of horror stories about that sort of hookup. Im trying to figure out why (1) neither dividers come all the way to the bottom. (2) If the plumbing on the left with the ball valve was used for an external return pump or just a drain for water changes. AS for what pipes to use, its up to you. Some people prefer to hard plumb with PVC or use flexible hose. I currently have a mix of both. If your sump is right below your display tank, I would go with rubber hose from HD or Lowes from your return pump, then a T connector to split the return to both return vents. as for the drains, I think Flex PVC would be good or just rubber hose again. Just be sure its secure in the sump. The overflows should be able to handle just about any amount of flow within reason. Look at pumps flow rate. You want to return about 3-4 times your total water volume per hour. So for you 120 gallon tank, you would want a pump that would be 360-480 gallons per hour at 5' head height. I would leave one chamber empty (or some people like to use filter socks from the drains) for the drains to empty into, then put live rock and macroalgae in the second chamber, and then the return pump in the 3rd chamber.

Thank you for the great response. I have a couple more questions...
1) is it bad to use a return pump that's rated greater than 3-4 times than my tank volume? My guess is not.
2) I will close the ball valve and use a sumergible return pump. Do I need to remove the ATO valve if I'm not going to use it, or is it okay to leave it on? Will water leak?

03/24/2015, 08:01 AM	#5
Kyle461 Registered Member Join Date: Mar 2014 Location: Corpus Christi, TX Posts: 438	1st chamber: Skimmer if you can fit it 2nd chamber: possible refugium if you want 3rd chamber: return pump My return pump has suction cups on the bottom and sits in my third chamber. It returns the water through vinyl tubing (I may switch to pvc soon). The toilet "thing" maybe be a float switch that can trigger a ATO system? __________________ Nadie me paga en chicles!! Build Thread: http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2485917 Current Tank Info: 40 gallon breeder (2/17/15); 20L 3-chamber sump; Tunze Nano ATO; Hydor 320gph return and Circulation 850 gph; Coralife Super Skimmer 125 G; Marineland 24"-36" Reef LED

03/24/2015, 08:43 AM	#6
gone fishin Registered Member Join Date: Jul 2011 Location: Wyocena Wi Posts: 6,936	To me it looks like you only have a partition and not a weir set up. I would say the float switch is set up for an ATO and the bulkhead indicates you could use an external return pump. If you do not have a weir set up in the sump then I would think you will end up with a lot of bubbles in the DT. I would not use the float set up for a top off, if the float sticks you could end up putting a lot of fresh water into the tank. At a minimum your salinity will drop, worst case you end up with water on the floor. There is a pump calculator on the home page, left hand side about half way down. __________________ Tony Current Tank Info: 180gal DT, BM NAC77 skimmer,3 Maxspect razors, Maxspect Gyre 150, 30g QT

03/23/2015, 10:57 PM	#2
thegrun Registered Member Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: Garden Grove, Ca Posts: 17,023	I'm guessing the sump was designed as a wet/dry filter with bioballs, which is no longer in favor for saltwater tank, particularly reef tanks due to the wet/dry set-up producing a lot of nitrates. The picture isn't clear, going from right to left does the first divider extend all the way to the bottom? How about the second divider? If it were my sump I would make some major changes but it doesn't sound like you are the do it yourself type of aquarist. Give us a little more information regarding the baffles and I'll try to figure out an easy solution.

03/24/2015, 08:00 AM	#4
wnehez Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2011 Location: Ringtown, PA Posts: 351	The "water level pump thing" looks like whoever had it before had it directly hooked up to an RO/DI unit as the auto top off. I would not recommend this. Read a bunch of horror stories about that sort of hookup. Im trying to figure out why (1) neither dividers come all the way to the bottom. (2) If the plumbing on the left with the ball valve was used for an external return pump or just a drain for water changes. AS for what pipes to use, its up to you. Some people prefer to hard plumb with PVC or use flexible hose. I currently have a mix of both. If your sump is right below your display tank, I would go with rubber hose from HD or Lowes from your return pump, then a T connector to split the return to both return vents. as for the drains, I think Flex PVC would be good or just rubber hose again. Just be sure its secure in the sump. The overflows should be able to handle just about any amount of flow within reason. Look at pumps flow rate. You want to return about 3-4 times your total water volume per hour. So for you 120 gallon tank, you would want a pump that would be 360-480 gallons per hour at 5' head height. I would leave one chamber empty (or some people like to use filter socks from the drains) for the drains to empty into, then put live rock and macroalgae in the second chamber, and then the return pump in the 3rd chamber.