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Unread 03/30/2015, 12:23 PM   #1
slojim
Registered Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2003
Posts: 51
new/old set up dc pumps, sump, skimmer, etc

I left the hobby ~ 15 years ago as a series of relocations made it too much of a pain to do anything nice. I am starting to get serious about setting up a tank again. I'd like some feedback on a few things:
First, I already have a tank. It is a 110 tall, pre-drilled, Ocea glass tank that I have had for a while. The cabinet is nice, but the hood is probably too short, so I'll have to go hood-less or build a new one to match. My intent is to set it up as a FOWLR tank, but new stuff I buy should be appropriate for some coral in the future. I live near Houston and Galveston, so it is warm here. Typically I keep my house at 76-78F. I may need to drop that, but I'd like to avoid a chiller, so keeping added heat down is a potential big cost. (all the more reason to skip the hood).
Also, just as philosophy, I make my living in manufacturing in the US. I prefer US made stuff when available, and when there is a reasonable price difference or other advantage. I can't deny folks who live in other countries their livelihood either, but sometimes I let politics and/or perceived quality control to get in the way.
I have a skimmer. It's an old TF-100. Not very efficient on the "amps in/scum out" scale, but I'm thinking of keeping it and plumbing it to a branch of the main circulation pump at least to start up. If it doesn't work, I can get another skimmer later, or try a mazzei upgrade. It needs ~ 500 GPM, so would my tank.
I need a sump. My LFS makes them from glass aquariums. Or I could buy a pricey trigger emerald 39. I doubt my fish would know. But one big concern for me is that I need to remove a brace to get it in, so I do need it to hold up long term. Replacement will not be easy. I plan to include a refugium in the sump.
For lights, I am leaning towards 2 AI 52's. The energy savings vs other lights that could penetrate the 30" depth, plus heat, plus flexibility, definitely have me planning LED.
What is the deal with DC pumps? People talk about their energy efficiency. As far as I can tell, running a DC main pump instead of a Danner Mag series of comparable output will save me on the order of 40 watts continuous, which works out to less than $3/month, with a price difference of a few hundred dollars. Payback might not be there in the life of the pump. But, if they put much less heat in the tank and are the difference between needing a chiller or not, then it is there in terms of buying and operating costs. The controllability is interesting since I may/will want to add reactors or other features down the road. (Not committed to mag drive, but I have used them before with good results and they are easy enough to get, so I used them for a baseline for wattage comparisons. I know there are other options)
Make-up water - I have an old kold steril. I never used it for a tank since I moved after I got it, but I did set it up for drinking water. My local water here is ~9 mg/l (9ppm) silica and non-detect for phosphates (<0.1ppm). I figure I'll use the alumina I still have for the first fill, then go without for make-up/water changes. I read plenty of threads on people who use it fine, and plenty more on folks who wouldn't think of it. My LFS where I lived when I bought it used it. I'll keep folks in the loop on results.
Controller - never used one, but since I travel routinely, I will this time so I can get feedback and some emergency remote control or programmed response. Neptune Apex, ReefAngel, ReefAI are all in the mix for now. I have time.
Long enough. If you've read this far, thanks.


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