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Unread 04/30/2015, 10:56 AM   #1
Stephen302
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Zoa died. Do I need to worry about my other corals?

This maybe a newbie question but please be patient as I am still new to the hobby. I have had the Zoa for about 5 weeks. It opened up some after about 3 days and then proceeded to go back between semi-open and closed every other day or so (Never fully opened). Finally he stayed closed for a week or week and a half. Today I came in and it was obviously dead. It looked like it had disintegrated. I pulled it out and threw it away (Straight into a Ziploc bag then washed my hands). Now for my question. In Y'all's (Yes I'm a Texan) opinion do I need to worry about my BTA and my Frogspawn? The Frogspawn is the oldest thing in my tank except for sand, live rock, and water. It has a few heads that seem to be shriveling up.



Is this something to worry about? There is also a spot where it looks like something has taken a bite out of the stalk.



Is this to be expected or do I have something to worry about. Thanks for reading and any advice would be welcome!


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Unread 04/30/2015, 11:00 AM   #2
whosurcaddie
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We need some parameters. Also flow and lighting would also help.


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Unread 04/30/2015, 11:03 AM   #3
Sk8r
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Chances are it failed because conditions weren't good for its species---or a pest ate it. Things that eat zoas don't necessarily eat frog. I have a number of asterinas, eg, in my lps tank with no problem at all. But let's have those parameters.


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Salinity 1.024-6; alkalinity 8.3-9.3 on KH scale; calcium 420; magnesium 1300, temp 78-80, nitrate .2. Ammonia 0. No filters: lps tank. Alk and cal won't rise if mg is low.

Current Tank Info: 105g AquaVim wedge, yellow tang, sailfin blenny,royal gramma, ocellaris clown pair, yellow watchman, 100 microceriths, 25 tiny hermits, a 4" conch, 1" nassarius, recovering from 2 year hiatus with daily water change of 10%.
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Unread 04/30/2015, 11:21 AM   #4
Stephen302
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Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by whosurcaddie View Post
We need some parameters. Also flow and lighting would also help.
It is in a coralife Biocube 29 so whatever lights it has.

Parameters:
Nitrate <10
Nitrite 0
Alkalinity is somewhere between 180-300
pH 8.0
Ammonia 0
Salinity 1.024

These have been pretty constant except the Nitrate. It is the highest it has eve been (W.C. time)


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Unread 04/30/2015, 11:26 AM   #5
Heatherabel3
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180-300 ppm? I feel like if closer to the 300 side that's kinda high. I don't know if it would cause your particular problem but 300ppm is off the chart on my test kit so I can't imagine it would be good. Is there any way you can test to get a more accurate idea of the number?


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Unread 04/30/2015, 11:29 AM   #6
Crooked Reef
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Bubble tips need a good light and an established tank, 6 months minimum but preferably one year, and even then survival is not guaranteed. The bubble tip may not make it but it may not have anything to do with the zoanthid. I have multiple euphylia corals, torches, frogspawns and hammers, and don't have luck with most zoanthids. I can keep a few but lost waste away in 6 months.


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Current Tank Info: 90 gallon reef. Biocube 29 lionfish tank. Mantis tank.
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Unread 04/30/2015, 11:34 AM   #7
Stephen302
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Heatherabel3 View Post
180-300 ppm? I feel like if closer to the 300 side that's kinda high. I don't know if it would cause your particular problem but 300ppm is off the chart on my test kit so I can't imagine it would be good. Is there any way you can test to get a more accurate idea of the number?
I just re tested it. It is pretty much 180 ppm. Maybe just a hair higher.


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Unread 04/30/2015, 12:57 PM   #8
Sk8r
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Alk on the dkh scale should be 8.3 alkalinity, 420 calcium for stony coral, with 1300 magnesium. THe frogspawn can take down calcium quite fast.


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Salinity 1.024-6; alkalinity 8.3-9.3 on KH scale; calcium 420; magnesium 1300, temp 78-80, nitrate .2. Ammonia 0. No filters: lps tank. Alk and cal won't rise if mg is low.

Current Tank Info: 105g AquaVim wedge, yellow tang, sailfin blenny,royal gramma, ocellaris clown pair, yellow watchman, 100 microceriths, 25 tiny hermits, a 4" conch, 1" nassarius, recovering from 2 year hiatus with daily water change of 10%.
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Unread 05/01/2015, 05:54 AM   #9
julie180
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Need to check phosphates as well.


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Unread 05/06/2015, 12:03 PM   #10
zoanutty
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I think you're reading the Alk test wrong. As mentioned above it should be in the single digits, or in tens as the most.


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Unread 05/06/2015, 12:04 PM   #11
zoanutty
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And what is the nitrate reading?


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Unread 05/06/2015, 12:24 PM   #12
Stephen302
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I need to go buy a new test kit. The one I have is a fresh and salt water test strip bottle I picked up for like $20. The Alkalinity is measured in (KH) while everything else is measure in (mg/L). Everything seems to be doing good as of now.


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Unread 05/06/2015, 12:24 PM   #13
Stephen302
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Nitrate looks 0.


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Unread 05/06/2015, 01:19 PM   #14
cmcoker
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Hey Stephen, how long have you had your biocube and did you get it new? Just wondering how old those bulbs are..
Also, I am from dfw as well, have you found our local club? Dfwmas.org, lots of helpful local folks.


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Unread 05/06/2015, 04:24 PM   #15
Stephen302
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cmcoker View Post
Hey Stephen, how long have you had your biocube and did you get it new? Just wondering how old those bulbs are..
Also, I am from dfw as well, have you found our local club? Dfwmas.org, lots of helpful local folks.
I bought the Biocube new from a LFS. The bulbs should be brand new. I haven't heard of the club but I will check it out!


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