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04/28/2012, 06:55 PM | #126 | |
Sith Lord
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Saint Charles, MO
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04/28/2012, 06:56 PM | #127 |
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Location: Louisville
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Darth i really like your set up and looks like your having great success. What steps do you take in sanitizing your equipment and water?
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04/28/2012, 07:05 PM | #128 |
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Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Sacramento, CA USA
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Nice set up there Darth. If I ever get to the point where I need a lot, I'll try to copy what you did. May I ask, what is the sump looking tank for?
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04/28/2012, 07:17 PM | #129 |
Sith Lord
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Location: Saint Charles, MO
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The tank below has dual rotifer cultures, and on a shelf below that is a 10 gallon split like the one you see for dual copepod cultures
I will be honest, initially I would sterilize the RODI water in the microwave and then mix with salt the day before I split them but I started using the water I have mixed in a 55 gallon drum and adding RODI to dilute it to 1.018 and have had no issues I do clean out the flasks, airline tubing and little 3 W heaters that are in each flask every few weeks with dilute HCL and RODI solution. I then Tripp,e rinse in RODI and once with fresh saltwater before putting the cultures back in. Only time I had a crash was when I cleaned with HcL solution and didn't rinse thinking it would be ok, the PH dropped and the next morning I had clear water with black dead phyto in the bottom. I just restarted it with what I had in the reridgerator and have had no problems since |
04/28/2012, 08:05 PM | #130 |
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That's cool. Have the rotifers and copepods going at the same time. Now just add a shrimp tank and you have everything pretty much covered. Where did you find the small heaters? Wouldn't the lights be enough heat?
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04/28/2012, 08:21 PM | #131 |
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Location: Louisville
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What is hcl?
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04/28/2012, 09:48 PM | #132 |
Sith Lord
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Saint Charles, MO
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Here are the heaters I use
http://www.amazon.com/Marineland-ML-.../dp/B005JPA1FU It's in my basement which is around 60-65 degrees, and I found it grows faster and more consistent at closer to 78 degrees. It's not necessary because I've left them off before after cleaning but I just thought it would help Also, HCL is hydrochloric acid, sold in hardware stores as muriatic acid. I dilute this (always acid INTO water) I don't believe this would totally sterilize like bleach but it cleans any residue up really good |
04/28/2012, 09:49 PM | #133 | |
Sith Lord
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Location: Saint Charles, MO
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04/29/2012, 05:35 AM | #134 | |
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Location: Sacramento, CA USA
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04/29/2012, 06:52 AM | #135 |
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How many days on average does it take before your culture begins really turning green?
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04/29/2012, 04:05 PM | #136 |
Sith Lord
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Location: Saint Charles, MO
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I split them every Friday evening
When I split I harvest 50% sp when the new culture is fed with micro algea grow, it's already a light green, and by Wednesday it's already pretty dark. Usually it hits the max density Thursday and doesn't grow much more before I harvest on Friday I put in 1.5 ml of micro algae grow per 2000 ml after I split on Friday and it seems like its mostly all used up by the time I harvest |
04/29/2012, 04:27 PM | #137 |
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Nice information. What are you feeding with this?
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04/29/2012, 07:15 PM | #138 |
Sith Lord
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Saint Charles, MO
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Right now most is given away as my new system is cycling
I do feed my rotifer cultures and copepod with it, and my plan is to eventually breed clowns. The LfS feeds it to his clams, Feather dusters and soft corals with it. |
03/04/2015, 05:25 PM | #139 |
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Join Date: Feb 2014
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I'm getting ready to start a culture too. I just got all of my supplies from FAF. Looking at the back of the f2, it reads; "Contents: nitrates, phosphate, sodium, iron, maganese, cobalt, zinc, molybdate, sulfates, copper, thiamine, biotin, cyanocobalamin, ascorbic acid and EDTA." I'm questioning weather or not I want to be putting g it in my tank even if it is tiny amounts at a time. Any input?
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03/04/2015, 08:32 PM | #140 |
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Location: Brampton, ON, Canada
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You only add the F2 to the phyto culture and then only use the phyto once it has depleted the nutrients from the F2 and stopped multiplying.
Dennis
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560G Miracles tank in process making a DIY DyMiCo style filter (for 560G) Current Tank Info: 560G Miracles tank in progress, 80Frag Temporary |
03/05/2015, 12:34 PM | #141 |
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What about the copper?
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03/05/2015, 07:57 PM | #142 |
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Location: Brampton, ON, Canada
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The copper in F2 will be in the trace element range. Meaning it poses no risk (unless of course you were adding F2 directly to your tank, which is NOT recommended). F2 has been used for 30 years to grow marine algae, so I would expect it is pretty safe.
Dennis
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560G Miracles tank in process making a DIY DyMiCo style filter (for 560G) Current Tank Info: 560G Miracles tank in progress, 80Frag Temporary |
03/05/2015, 10:53 PM | #143 |
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Looks like I have something new to try. My wife will be thrilled.
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05/02/2015, 06:25 PM | #144 |
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Join Date: Sep 2014
Posts: 12
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Hi,
I'm trying to start a culture of phyto but I don't have the access to your stuff because I live in Portugal. With this stuff can I have success on culturing? Phytoplancton batch - http://www.reefshotz.com/phytoexcel.html For algae grow, I have this product from Bayer, Complesal 12-4-6 but it have 0,01% of copper. Can this be safe to use in aquarium? http://www.nufarm.com/assets/20859/1...sal_12_4_6.pdf http://www.miraclegro.com/smg/produc...Plant_Food.pdf Thanks for your attention |
05/22/2015, 09:52 PM | #145 |
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Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: El Paso, Texas
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Does the water ever evaporate within a weeks period? If so do you guys top it off?
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Tags |
culture, grow, kelvin, miracle gro, phytoplankton, reef food |
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