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Unread 02/16/2015, 09:47 AM   #1
Kyle461
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Recommendations...

I currently have my tank with w/d filter set up and running fresh water just to test it. I wanted to shoot some pictures to the pros out there and get any recommendations before I start adding everything to cycle the tank.

The tank is a 40 G breeder (36" x "18 x "16) and the filter is an Eshopps WD-75CS. I currently have a pump (Hydor Seltz 320 I think) that is rated for 320 gph and has flow control.


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Unread 02/16/2015, 02:36 PM   #2
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One specific question I was hoping to answer through someones recommendation was with the curve of the plumbing (you can see it in the picture of the w/d filter). The curve is due to a short length between the tank and the w/d filter. Will this affect anything and if so, what could I do to remedy it?


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Current Tank Info: 40 gallon breeder (2/17/15); 20L 3-chamber sump; Tunze Nano ATO; Hydor 320gph return and Circulation 850 gph; Coralife Super Skimmer 125 G; Marineland 24"-36" Reef LED
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Unread 02/16/2015, 04:28 PM   #3
JammyBirch
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Nothing wrong with the curve in the drain pipe. One comment, bio balls may be a problem in the future. They trap stuff and can increase nitrates. Is there a skimmer for tis system?


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Unread 02/16/2015, 04:32 PM   #4
Kyle461
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I plan on getting the skimmer soon. There's a filter between the drain and the balls. Will this prevent any large particles from reaching them and getting trapped?


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Current Tank Info: 40 gallon breeder (2/17/15); 20L 3-chamber sump; Tunze Nano ATO; Hydor 320gph return and Circulation 850 gph; Coralife Super Skimmer 125 G; Marineland 24"-36" Reef LED
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Unread 02/16/2015, 05:13 PM   #5
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If this is to have corals someday, ditch the bioballs and sponges and rely solely on your live rock and sandbed. Those are provided for people that will run a fish-only system.


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Unread 02/16/2015, 05:19 PM   #6
Kyle461
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Could I replace that area of bioballs with live rock?


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Build Thread: http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2485917

Current Tank Info: 40 gallon breeder (2/17/15); 20L 3-chamber sump; Tunze Nano ATO; Hydor 320gph return and Circulation 850 gph; Coralife Super Skimmer 125 G; Marineland 24"-36" Reef LED
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Unread 02/16/2015, 05:28 PM   #7
AZBigJohn
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kyle461 View Post
Could I replace that area of bioballs with live rock?
That is definitely a better option.


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Unread 02/16/2015, 06:12 PM   #8
JammyBirch
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No bio balls, socks or sponges...put your skimmer in that compartment, add sand and water to your display tank, let it cycle and you're done.

Some rubble in the sump is ok if it's not on your equipment...you don't need it though. You sump just needs a return pump, skimmer and heater...good to go.


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Unread 02/16/2015, 10:16 PM   #9
Kyle461
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Thanks gentlemen!!


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Build Thread: http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2485917

Current Tank Info: 40 gallon breeder (2/17/15); 20L 3-chamber sump; Tunze Nano ATO; Hydor 320gph return and Circulation 850 gph; Coralife Super Skimmer 125 G; Marineland 24"-36" Reef LED
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Unread 02/20/2015, 09:10 AM   #10
Kyle461
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Thanks for the suggestions. The sump works much better without the bioballs and seems to have more purpose!!


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Build Thread: http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2485917

Current Tank Info: 40 gallon breeder (2/17/15); 20L 3-chamber sump; Tunze Nano ATO; Hydor 320gph return and Circulation 850 gph; Coralife Super Skimmer 125 G; Marineland 24"-36" Reef LED
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Unread 02/20/2015, 09:15 AM   #11
Kyle461
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Forgot the pics!!


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Build Thread: http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2485917

Current Tank Info: 40 gallon breeder (2/17/15); 20L 3-chamber sump; Tunze Nano ATO; Hydor 320gph return and Circulation 850 gph; Coralife Super Skimmer 125 G; Marineland 24"-36" Reef LED
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Unread 02/20/2015, 09:17 AM   #12
FraggledRock
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kyle461 View Post
Forgot the pics!!
my reccommendation is work on your rock scape a bit. try to minimize dead spots. dead spots are areas that will get little to no flow.

dead spots can cause water issues later on when things decompose and nothing can get to it.

also is that a deep sand bed? it looks like about 5 inches


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Unread 02/20/2015, 09:30 AM   #13
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Right now I have the circulation pump middle tank blowing towards the front. Seems to create a draft back to the rocks and to the sides. The sand bed is only about an inch I believe. Looks like it could be deep but I think the photo is misleading. Would you have any recommendations for the rocks??


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Build Thread: http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2485917

Current Tank Info: 40 gallon breeder (2/17/15); 20L 3-chamber sump; Tunze Nano ATO; Hydor 320gph return and Circulation 850 gph; Coralife Super Skimmer 125 G; Marineland 24"-36" Reef LED
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Unread 02/20/2015, 09:37 AM   #14
FraggledRock
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kyle461 View Post
Right now I have the circulation pump middle tank blowing towards the front. Seems to create a draft back to the rocks and to the sides. The sand bed is only about an inch I believe. Looks like it could be deep but I think the photo is misleading. Would you have any recommendations for the rocks??
I love caves.

I love watching fish go in and out of them, and I love an arch or two.

Give the tank more character and helps the fish feel less stressed when they have places to hide.

it all really depends on what you like, but try to keep bigger rocks higher off the sand bed and use smaller ones as "legs"

whe i scaped mine i kept in mind how a "TeePee" stands with a hollowed out center and a shell around it.

this was fish have a "home" and you still have coral real estate =)

i hope that makes sense


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Unread 02/20/2015, 09:42 AM   #15
Kyle461
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Makes a lot of sense. Maybe I should have more pictures. The caves are a bit hidden and can better be seen from the sides. I was shooting for two "island" style set-ups but I didn't want to short the rock from the 1 lb. per gallon recommendation.

I guess my next question would be in order to gain that kind of scaping, would it be ok to be on the short side of lbs. per gallon?


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Build Thread: http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2485917

Current Tank Info: 40 gallon breeder (2/17/15); 20L 3-chamber sump; Tunze Nano ATO; Hydor 320gph return and Circulation 850 gph; Coralife Super Skimmer 125 G; Marineland 24"-36" Reef LED
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Unread 02/20/2015, 09:48 AM   #16
FraggledRock
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Makes a lot of sense. Maybe I should have more pictures. The caves are a bit hidden and can better be seen from the sides. I was shooting for two "island" style set-ups but I didn't want to short the rock from the 1 lb. per gallon recommendation.

I guess my next question would be in order to gain that kind of scaping, would it be ok to be on the short side of lbs. per gallon?
pounds per gallon isnt a good "rule".

its kind of variable. if you have a sump, you can keep 100 lbs of liverock in there and 1 rock in your DT and see no difference than if it was 90 lbs in your DT and 10lbs in your sump.

I didn't really calculate pounds per gallon i just scaped til i liked it and dump whatever else i had in my sump.

the pounds per gallon "rule" is inaccurate, the most important aspect is really how much surface area you have for bacteria to grow.

you can have a boulder in your tank that weight 100 lbs and have less surface area then a bio pellet that weighed 1 gram LOL

porous rock is more important for surface area, weight is not really relevant

also as a side note, and we have teh same tank so i have already went through every possible thing, when you realize you ned more flow, dont get more cheapies, go for the vortech mp10.

youll end up spending more money over time and not get what you really need than if you went and got the right thing off the bat.

i am ordering my vortech pump next week and I cant wait to get all those bulky powerheads out lol


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Current Tank Info: 40 Gallon Breeder w/ Bean Animal Overflow 20G Sump, Mixed Reef.
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Unread 02/20/2015, 11:59 AM   #17
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why is everyone so down on bio balls? Thats all i have used for 20+ years. The thing i like about the bio balls is while the water is trickling, every drop is having maximum air exchange and in turn makes your water rich with oxygen, the added oxygen creates stronger colonies of nitrifying bacteria. as long as you have a prefilter there wont be any build ups.


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Unread 02/20/2015, 12:10 PM   #18
Kyle461
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Only thing I can add is that I read there still may be build-up in the balls that produces nitrates? It seems the general consensus is bioballs are no bueno for reef systems.

I figured my oxygen is coming from running the protein skimmer (not collecting skimmate, sp?) on low while it cycles.


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Build Thread: http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2485917

Current Tank Info: 40 gallon breeder (2/17/15); 20L 3-chamber sump; Tunze Nano ATO; Hydor 320gph return and Circulation 850 gph; Coralife Super Skimmer 125 G; Marineland 24"-36" Reef LED
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Unread 03/06/2015, 02:18 PM   #19
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For Fraggle (rock picture):

Small "teepee" on the left and larger "teepee" on the right. Should give decent refuge for the inhabitants once there.

For Sk8er (sump pic):

No more bioballs! Totally gutted everything and it became an expensive acrylic box (lesson learned!!)


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Build Thread: http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2485917

Current Tank Info: 40 gallon breeder (2/17/15); 20L 3-chamber sump; Tunze Nano ATO; Hydor 320gph return and Circulation 850 gph; Coralife Super Skimmer 125 G; Marineland 24"-36" Reef LED
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Unread 06/18/2015, 08:07 AM   #20
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Hey Kyle,

Could you take a few more detailed pics of the sump if it's not too much trouble? Your setup is exactly how I want to run mine and want to see how you separated everything.

Would be greatly appreciated!


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