RO/DI Filter Change

40gal · 09/06/2015, 09:17 PM

I need to replace my RO/DI filters because it is probably overdue. My TDS is still reading 0 on my output, but I have not changed any of the filters since getting it. Looking at filters, I found there are a couple different choices, and I'm not sure what to go with. My unit is a reef keeper 75gpd from air, water, ice.

Due to the lack of maintenance, which filters should I replace? Obviously, the carbon/sediment filters should be changed, and my DI resin filter is beginning to turn orange (about 1/4 of it). I'm good with replacing all the filters if necessary, but if I can squeeze more out of any of these that would be great. Is there a recommended replacement frequency for maximizing filter life?

BrettDS · 09/06/2015, 10:26 PM

If you're still getting 0 tds and your DI resin is only 1/4 used, then there is definitely no need to replace that. Replacing the prefilters might not hurt, but you don't say how old it is. It wouldn't hurt to get a TDS reading after the RO membrane and before the DI to see how the membrane is doing.

40gal · 09/07/2015, 05:38 AM

So I put it into service around Nov of 2013, so going on 2 years without changing any filters.

shifty51008 · 09/07/2015, 06:57 AM

You want to change your carbon and sediment filters every 6 months regardless of use. The membrane when rejection rate starts to drop, and di when you start getting 1-2ppm.

With that said, being as its been 2 years sence changeing the filters i would pull them all out and sanitize the system, then put new carbon and sediment filters in, you can reuse the membrane and di still.

40gal · 09/07/2015, 06:59 AM

When you say sanitize, what exactly do you mean?

shifty51008 · 09/07/2015, 07:06 AM

http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/sh...7&postcount=16

40gal · 09/07/2015, 07:08 AM

Interesting, I've never heard to do that.

shifty51008 · 09/07/2015, 07:28 AM

Alot of people havent, it is very good to do though to keep bacteria away

40gal · 09/07/2015, 12:31 PM

What's the better option, GAC between the sediment and 1 micron carbon, or just a 5 micron carbon block? Also, I see coconut carbon blocks and another style - is one preferred over the other?

shifty51008 · 09/07/2015, 02:38 PM

Do you have chloramines in your water? If you dont then i would do 1 micron sediment and 1 micron carbon and 2 di filters.

If you have chloramines then 1 micron sediment, 1 micron carbon, and gac with 1 di stage.

40gal · 09/07/2015, 03:58 PM

Although I'm not 100%, I believe that I have chlorimates in my water. I suppose that running the GAC wouldn't be a bad thing without them except for a bit of additional cost. I think that's the route I'm going to go.

Thanks for the suggestions!

40gal · 09/14/2015, 07:30 PM

Either I'm loosing it, or my Typhoon III RO/DI has just blown my mind.

So I go for the sanitation procedure posted above in conjunction with my filter change. Remove all old filters and begin procedure. Mind you, my tapwater enters from the far right side. The right canister is connected to the canister to the left, which is connected to the canister to the left of it. When I turn my water back on the third canister from the right fills with water first, then the second canister, then the first canister.

What gives? I would expect the right-most canister (sediment filter) fill with water first, then the one to the left of it, followed by the one to the left of that. From there it would feed the RO membrane. Am I missing something here?

** Edit **

Note to self, when you hook the supply to the drain and the drain to the supply, everything happens backwards.

shifty51008 · 09/14/2015, 07:39 PM

Lol looks like you figured out the issue.

40gal · 09/14/2015, 07:51 PM

That's what happens when you try to do things when you are sleep deprived!

Yes, I figured it out

09/06/2015, 09:17 PM	#1
40gal Premium Member Join Date: Feb 2003 Location: NoVA Posts: 464	RO/DI Filter Change I need to replace my RO/DI filters because it is probably overdue. My TDS is still reading 0 on my output, but I have not changed any of the filters since getting it. Looking at filters, I found there are a couple different choices, and I'm not sure what to go with. My unit is a reef keeper 75gpd from air, water, ice. Due to the lack of maintenance, which filters should I replace? Obviously, the carbon/sediment filters should be changed, and my DI resin filter is beginning to turn orange (about 1/4 of it). I'm good with replacing all the filters if necessary, but if I can squeeze more out of any of these that would be great. Is there a recommended replacement frequency for maximizing filter life? __________________ Always Something...... Current Tank Info: 45 Cube \| Past tanks: [72BF][40L][20H]

09/07/2015, 05:38 AM	#3
40gal Premium Member Join Date: Feb 2003 Location: NoVA Posts: 464	So I put it into service around Nov of 2013, so going on 2 years without changing any filters. __________________ Always Something...... Current Tank Info: 45 Cube \| Past tanks: [72BF][40L][20H]

09/07/2015, 06:57 AM	#4
shifty51008 12-5 Chiefs record Join Date: Mar 2010 Location: NW Iowa Posts: 10,134	You want to change your carbon and sediment filters every 6 months regardless of use. The membrane when rejection rate starts to drop, and di when you start getting 1-2ppm. With that said, being as its been 2 years sence changeing the filters i would pull them all out and sanitize the system, then put new carbon and sediment filters in, you can reuse the membrane and di still. __________________ 75 gal. mixed DT, 100 gal. sump, 50 gal. fuge, Clownfish breeder

09/07/2015, 06:59 AM	#5
40gal Premium Member Join Date: Feb 2003 Location: NoVA Posts: 464	When you say sanitize, what exactly do you mean? __________________ Always Something...... Current Tank Info: 45 Cube \| Past tanks: [72BF][40L][20H]

09/07/2015, 07:06 AM	#6
shifty51008 12-5 Chiefs record Join Date: Mar 2010 Location: NW Iowa Posts: 10,134	http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/sh...7&postcount=16 __________________ 75 gal. mixed DT, 100 gal. sump, 50 gal. fuge, Clownfish breeder

09/06/2015, 10:26 PM	#2
BrettDS Registered Member Join Date: Feb 2012 Location: Orlando Posts: 1,109	If you're still getting 0 tds and your DI resin is only 1/4 used, then there is definitely no need to replace that. Replacing the prefilters might not hurt, but you don't say how old it is. It wouldn't hurt to get a TDS reading after the RO membrane and before the DI to see how the membrane is doing.

09/07/2015, 07:08 AM	#7
40gal Premium Member Join Date: Feb 2003 Location: NoVA Posts: 464	Interesting, I've never heard to do that. __________________ Always Something...... Current Tank Info: 45 Cube \| Past tanks: [72BF][40L][20H]

09/07/2015, 07:28 AM	#8
shifty51008 12-5 Chiefs record Join Date: Mar 2010 Location: NW Iowa Posts: 10,134	Alot of people havent, it is very good to do though to keep bacteria away __________________ 75 gal. mixed DT, 100 gal. sump, 50 gal. fuge, Clownfish breeder

09/07/2015, 12:31 PM	#9
40gal Premium Member Join Date: Feb 2003 Location: NoVA Posts: 464	What's the better option, GAC between the sediment and 1 micron carbon, or just a 5 micron carbon block? Also, I see coconut carbon blocks and another style - is one preferred over the other? __________________ Always Something...... Current Tank Info: 45 Cube \| Past tanks: [72BF][40L][20H]

09/07/2015, 02:38 PM	#10
shifty51008 12-5 Chiefs record Join Date: Mar 2010 Location: NW Iowa Posts: 10,134	Do you have chloramines in your water? If you dont then i would do 1 micron sediment and 1 micron carbon and 2 di filters. If you have chloramines then 1 micron sediment, 1 micron carbon, and gac with 1 di stage. __________________ 75 gal. mixed DT, 100 gal. sump, 50 gal. fuge, Clownfish breeder

09/07/2015, 03:58 PM	#11
40gal Premium Member Join Date: Feb 2003 Location: NoVA Posts: 464	Although I'm not 100%, I believe that I have chlorimates in my water. I suppose that running the GAC wouldn't be a bad thing without them except for a bit of additional cost. I think that's the route I'm going to go. Thanks for the suggestions! __________________ Always Something...... Current Tank Info: 45 Cube \| Past tanks: [72BF][40L][20H]

09/14/2015, 07:30 PM	#12
40gal Premium Member Join Date: Feb 2003 Location: NoVA Posts: 464	Either I'm loosing it, or my Typhoon III RO/DI has just blown my mind. So I go for the sanitation procedure posted above in conjunction with my filter change. Remove all old filters and begin procedure. Mind you, my tapwater enters from the far right side. The right canister is connected to the canister to the left, which is connected to the canister to the left of it. When I turn my water back on the third canister from the right fills with water first, then the second canister, then the first canister. What gives? I would expect the right-most canister (sediment filter) fill with water first, then the one to the left of it, followed by the one to the left of that. From there it would feed the RO membrane. Am I missing something here? Edit Note to self, when you hook the supply to the drain and the drain to the supply, everything happens backwards. __________________ Always Something...... Current Tank Info: 45 Cube \| Past tanks: [72BF][40L][20H] Last edited by 40gal; 09/14/2015 at 07:35 PM. Reason: Brain Fart

09/14/2015, 07:39 PM	#13
shifty51008 12-5 Chiefs record Join Date: Mar 2010 Location: NW Iowa Posts: 10,134	Lol looks like you figured out the issue. __________________ 75 gal. mixed DT, 100 gal. sump, 50 gal. fuge, Clownfish breeder

09/14/2015, 07:51 PM	#14
40gal Premium Member Join Date: Feb 2003 Location: NoVA Posts: 464	That's what happens when you try to do things when you are sleep deprived! Yes, I figured it out __________________ Always Something...... Current Tank Info: 45 Cube \| Past tanks: [72BF][40L][20H]