2 400-watt XM 10000k + 2 54-watt ATI Blue Plus

kevin_e · 11/27/2015, 12:03 PM

What kind of visual color temperature can I expect, 12k, 14k? Obviously PAR will be through the roof, probably exceeding 600 in spots where coral are.

All bulbs are under PFO reflectors, BTW.

twon8 · 11/27/2015, 01:19 PM

10.5k? 2 blue plus are not going to do much with 400w 10k

kevin_e · 11/27/2015, 01:45 PM

You think it will have that little impact on coloration? The Blue Plus have a very noticeable impact on my 20000Ks right now. You would think seeing a shift in observable color would be much when they are both blue. I know a lot of people used to use, and probably still do us, 10000Ks with actinics and seem to not complain about white light.

Realposition · 11/27/2015, 01:59 PM

I don't think 2 blue plus will have much effect at all. I ran 400w 14k ushio with 4 blue plus and it didnt make much of a noticeable difference

kevin_e · 11/27/2015, 02:17 PM

Interesting.. I guess I will find out what it looks like soon enough. Does anyone have PAR ratings for 400-watt bulbs? I know there was an article published awhile back showing the results for 250 watt bulbs.

Ocean envy · 11/27/2015, 03:26 PM

With that set up it will have a nice blue look when the mhs are off. If you want to change the look, you will need to change the mh bulbs to say a 14k or 20k.

kevin_e · 11/27/2015, 03:34 PM

Yeah, I am running the Blue Plus now. The Blue is very, very blue in the morning and evening times. I have 250 watt 20000Ks running during the day. It seems dim to me compared to when it was on my 55.

naterealbig · 11/27/2015, 06:27 PM

No, you will see little-to-no difference at all. The 400W 10,000 K XM bulbs have the highest ppfd of any metal halide bulb on the market. They are very yellow, and will drown all but the brightest supplementation. I used to run 4x blue plus t5s, and I didn't even bother turning them on when the XM's were running.

Bpb · 11/27/2015, 07:36 PM

Like you said, you'll find out soon. I'm betting you ONLY notice the slight blueness to the shadows, if you stare at the tank and turn the t5ho on and off to a/b it. Otherwise I am betting it will make close to zero difference. The good news is that despite the 10k bulbs looking yellow, they're loaded with blue and violet based on their relative intensity spectrograph. They're not deficient in that area, they just have a ton of yellow, green, and red to drown all the blue out.

kevin_e · 11/27/2015, 08:45 PM

So will it be a crisp white or will it look yellow?

Bpb · 11/27/2015, 09:42 PM

One mans crisp is another mans yellow

kevin_e · 11/28/2015, 03:31 PM

I'll have to see. May stick with the Hamilton 20000k 250ss. Bulbs were $35, too cheep to at least try. Lost most of my colonies when I moved, so I am willing to sacrifice color (assumin it doesnt look like garbage) for fast growth right now. Can go back to 20000k once coral grow out a bit.

RobTheReefer · 11/28/2015, 04:46 PM

All of those watts going to yellow, green, red and HEAT is a tremendous waste. Your corals don't need any of it.

kevin_e · 11/28/2015, 11:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RobTheReefer

All of those watts going to yellow, green, red and HEAT is a tremendous waste. Your corals don't need any of it.

I'm sorry, I don't quite follow

RobTheReefer · 11/29/2015, 01:12 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kevin_e

I'm sorry, I don't quite follow

I guess I'm saying that a 10k metal halide has lots of par, but a large amount of it is wasted in spectrums that corals on reefs don't get much exposure to. Although, I'll freely admit that I am a layman. Scientists are welcome to smack some sense into me.

Link to Reference

.

kevin_e · 11/29/2015, 08:59 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RobTheReefer

I guess I'm saying that a 10k metal halide has lots of par, but a large amount of it is wasted in spectrums that corals on reefs don't get much exposure to. Although, I'll freely admit that I am a layman. Scientists are welcome to smack some sense into me.

Link to Reference

.

Could be, but isn't PAR a measure of photosynthetic available light? Meanining, it produces a high amount of light available to coral?

RobTheReefer · 11/29/2015, 02:36 PM

There are tons of discussions about PAR vs PUR on the forums. No sense in rehashing here. I will agree that pounding a tank with 400w 10k will grow corals fast. But it's like throwing crap against a wall. Sure, some of it's going to stick.

twon8 · 11/30/2015, 11:48 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kevin_e

So will it be a crisp white or will it look yellow?

You must remember that color is subjective, we all see it and describe it differently

11/27/2015, 12:03 PM	#1
kevin_e Registered Member Join Date: Jun 2013 Posts: 1,083	2 400-watt XM 10000k + 2 54-watt ATI Blue Plus What kind of visual color temperature can I expect, 12k, 14k? Obviously PAR will be through the roof, probably exceeding 600 in spots where coral are. All bulbs are under PFO reflectors, BTW.

11/27/2015, 01:19 PM	#2
twon8 Formally registered membe Join Date: Oct 2003 Location: slightly sw of richmond, va Posts: 5,920	10.5k? 2 blue plus are not going to do much with 400w 10k __________________ Anthony Richmond Reef Club "and as things fell apart, nobody paid much attention." Not building a wall but making a brick Current Tank Info: 300g DD display, 60g frag tank

11/27/2015, 01:59 PM	#4
Realposition Registered Member Join Date: Oct 2011 Location: Cheektowaga NY Posts: 320	I don't think 2 blue plus will have much effect at all. I ran 400w 14k ushio with 4 blue plus and it didnt make much of a noticeable difference __________________ Larry

11/27/2015, 06:27 PM	#8
naterealbig Premium Member Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: Tampa, FL Posts: 2,252	No, you will see little-to-no difference at all. The 400W 10,000 K XM bulbs have the highest ppfd of any metal halide bulb on the market. They are very yellow, and will drown all but the brightest supplementation. I used to run 4x blue plus t5s, and I didn't even bother turning them on when the XM's were running. __________________ My skimmate has notes of saffron, and a hint of lilac.

11/27/2015, 01:45 PM	#3
kevin_e Registered Member Join Date: Jun 2013 Posts: 1,083	You think it will have that little impact on coloration? The Blue Plus have a very noticeable impact on my 20000Ks right now. You would think seeing a shift in observable color would be much when they are both blue. I know a lot of people used to use, and probably still do us, 10000Ks with actinics and seem to not complain about white light.

11/27/2015, 02:17 PM	#5
kevin_e Registered Member Join Date: Jun 2013 Posts: 1,083	Interesting.. I guess I will find out what it looks like soon enough. Does anyone have PAR ratings for 400-watt bulbs? I know there was an article published awhile back showing the results for 250 watt bulbs.

11/27/2015, 03:26 PM	#6
Ocean envy Registered Member Join Date: Oct 2011 Posts: 102	With that set up it will have a nice blue look when the mhs are off. If you want to change the look, you will need to change the mh bulbs to say a 14k or 20k.

11/27/2015, 03:34 PM	#7
kevin_e Registered Member Join Date: Jun 2013 Posts: 1,083	Yeah, I am running the Blue Plus now. The Blue is very, very blue in the morning and evening times. I have 250 watt 20000Ks running during the day. It seems dim to me compared to when it was on my 55.

11/27/2015, 07:36 PM	#9
Bpb Registered Member Join Date: Oct 2012 Location: Texas Posts: 3,148	Like you said, you'll find out soon. I'm betting you ONLY notice the slight blueness to the shadows, if you stare at the tank and turn the t5ho on and off to a/b it. Otherwise I am betting it will make close to zero difference. The good news is that despite the 10k bulbs looking yellow, they're loaded with blue and violet based on their relative intensity spectrograph. They're not deficient in that area, they just have a ton of yellow, green, and red to drown all the blue out.

11/27/2015, 08:45 PM	#10
kevin_e Registered Member Join Date: Jun 2013 Posts: 1,083	So will it be a crisp white or will it look yellow?

11/27/2015, 09:42 PM	#11
Bpb Registered Member Join Date: Oct 2012 Location: Texas Posts: 3,148	One mans crisp is another mans yellow

11/28/2015, 03:31 PM	#12
kevin_e Registered Member Join Date: Jun 2013 Posts: 1,083	I'll have to see. May stick with the Hamilton 20000k 250ss. Bulbs were $35, too cheep to at least try. Lost most of my colonies when I moved, so I am willing to sacrifice color (assumin it doesnt look like garbage) for fast growth right now. Can go back to 20000k once coral grow out a bit.

11/28/2015, 04:46 PM	#13
RobTheReefer Moved Elsewhere Join Date: Aug 2004 Posts: 381	All of those watts going to yellow, green, red and HEAT is a tremendous waste. Your corals don't need any of it.

11/29/2015, 02:36 PM	#17
RobTheReefer Moved Elsewhere Join Date: Aug 2004 Posts: 381	There are tons of discussions about PAR vs PUR on the forums. No sense in rehashing here. I will agree that pounding a tank with 400w 10k will grow corals fast. But it's like throwing crap against a wall. Sure, some of it's going to stick.