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Unread 03/10/2014, 08:27 PM   #176
jdieck
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Haksar View Post
Hello All,

Thought I will revive this thread,I am using a Geo618 with a cole parmer peristalic pump set at 60ml/min andBPM at 60BPM on an AP regulator.ALK reading is at 8 and effluent ALK is at 14.My issue is I am getting lot of bubbles inside the reactor and the pump is making a sizzling sound similar to like it's not primed.Please advise what I can do to solve the issue as the pump sound is very irritating.
I am assuming you are referring to the recirculation pump. Have you tried purging the air out of the reactor using the effluent valve on top of the chamber while the pump is off? Once the air is purged out there shall be no more accumulation, if so look for a leak in the recirculation system (including the recirculation pump casing), look for the feed pump taking up air or bubbles if the level of the water level drops or look for overfeeding of CO2.


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Current Tank Info: 225 gal reef, DSB, 40 g sump w/ LRT100 return, 37 g pre-sump, 3 MH 250 W 15K, 4 96 W PC dual actinic,ETS 1500 Skim.w/LRT70, 20 lb Ca R., 40 W UV, 1/3 HP chiller, two 350 W Htrs, Neptune II Cont., 330 P LR/ 330 P LS. 55 gal Refugium
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Unread 03/11/2014, 12:32 PM   #177
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Yes the recirculating pump and I also tried purging by switching off the pump and then the bubbles clear up but as soon as I restart the pump the bubbles start again.I think there is an air leak on the elbow connecting the pipe to the pump and George from geo reef was very helpful in identifying the problem and also is sending me a few additional elbows to fit the pump.


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Unread 09/09/2014, 10:55 PM   #178
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Hoping someone can help me with my 618 setup, can't seem to get it to dial in. Over past 3 days my KH has been swinging almost 1dkh per day trying to stabilize. Either i shout up to much or drops. Currently my Apex controls my ph in the reactor and i have it setup to keep it between 6.5 and 6.55. Efluent right now is at 70ml/minute and I will take readings tomorrow to see how this holds. My solenoid does turn on and off about every 15 mins..Any suggestions? I have an AP regulator that i have sent to the company to repair so i will be switching to that one soon.


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Unread 10/17/2014, 12:08 PM   #179
jdieck
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tassod View Post
Hoping someone can help me with my 618 setup, can't seem to get it to dial in. Over past 3 days my KH has been swinging almost 1dkh per day trying to stabilize. Either i shout up to much or drops. Currently my Apex controls my ph in the reactor and i have it setup to keep it between 6.5 and 6.55. Efluent right now is at 70ml/minute and I will take readings tomorrow to see how this holds. My solenoid does turn on and off about every 15 mins..Any suggestions? I have an AP regulator that i have sent to the company to repair so i will be switching to that one soon.
Try not to over do it. Start back at the point were the alkalinity slowly drop then make small adjustments only every three days to give the system time to stabilize. Once adjusted, maje small reductions to the bubble count until the controller cuts off only ever hour to two. Again small adjustments is key. If alkalinity drops too much make a manual addition to correct the level. DO NOT try to adjust it using the reactor as you will always overshoot. If the alkalinity goes to high, unplug the solenoid until the level goes down and restart the reactor but with slightly reduced effluent flow.

Jose


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Current Tank Info: 225 gal reef, DSB, 40 g sump w/ LRT100 return, 37 g pre-sump, 3 MH 250 W 15K, 4 96 W PC dual actinic,ETS 1500 Skim.w/LRT70, 20 lb Ca R., 40 W UV, 1/3 HP chiller, two 350 W Htrs, Neptune II Cont., 330 P LR/ 330 P LS. 55 gal Refugium
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Unread 10/17/2014, 12:45 PM   #180
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jdieck View Post
Try not to over do it. Start back at the point were the alkalinity slowly drop then make small adjustments only every three days to give the system time to stabilize. Once adjusted, maje small reductions to the bubble count until the controller cuts off only ever hour to two. Again small adjustments is key. If alkalinity drops too much make a manual addition to correct the level. DO NOT try to adjust it using the reactor as you will always overshoot. If the alkalinity goes to high, unplug the solenoid until the level goes down and restart the reactor but with slightly reduced effluent flow.

Jose
Jose,

thank you for replying to my post. Since I last posted this I've been able to figure this part out and my alk is a steady 8.5 daily. The problem i am having now though is stumping me because I still can't figure it out and I've also posted about this under some other threads. I'm using a 20lb co2 tank (its not purchased, company just swaps it out every time i need to fill it) and twice in a row now, the tank has gone empty in about 2 weeks time. Both times I was using a recently purchased (used) AP.com regulator. The tank pressure when i initially connect it would ready about 800 or so PSI and would stay there for about just over a week..then it would start droping almost daily and within a few days it would be all gone.

I did check for leaks using soapy water and I did not see any. The settings i used on the regulator where 3 seconds per bubble and running secondary pressure at between 10-12 PSI. My effluent flow rate was also about 60ml/minute.

I just got my 3rd 20lb tank on Tuesday this week and I have now connected it using my old Reef Fanatic regulator and we'll see now how it goes. The PH in the reactor is being kept between 6.53 and 6.5 and my apex is turning the solenoid on and off about every 90 minutes but i've noticed sometimes it will keep it on for almost 3 hrs. I think my bubble count right now with the Reef fanatic regulator is about 40 bubbles /minute and my flow rate is about 40ml/minute. Lots of people keep telling me it has to be a leak. Well, i can't find any....can the AP regulator be causing this? I've also made sure that the co2 tank is indeed 20lbs when i get it.


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Unread 10/21/2014, 10:43 PM   #181
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Hi Tasso
If indeed the net weight of the cylinder content is 20 lbs then it must be a leak because 20 lbs should last about a year at that rate.
How did you checked the content? You can weight the cylinder and then deduct the tare weight TW usually stamped around the cylinder shoulder next to the DOT and serial numbers.
To check for leaks use soapy water mixing some dish hand washing soap in water. Keep in mind that the leak may be internal to the regulator or at the gauges so check all, no tony the connections.
Another way to check for leaks is that when yo have bubble rate and the cylinder valve is open, follow the next sequence.
1 close the solenoid by unplugging it,
2 close the regulator by unscrewing the (counterclockwise) the pressure adjusting knob if the regulator has one
3 close the cylinder valve and observe both gauges.
If the delivery pressure or both gauges (for the regulator that does not have a knob) drop then there is a leak between the regulator and the solenoid. If the cylinder (high) pressure gauge drops then there is a leak between the cylinder and the regulator or at the regulator body, safety device or diaphragm.

By the way, the CO2 inside the cylinder is in liquid form, that is why it is sold (and filled) by weight and the pressure of the gas phase vary between 750 or 1000 psi depending on the ambient temperature (830 psi at 70 *F). When you withdraw gas the pressure tends to drop so the liquid bubbles up to replace the used gas and recover the pressure. This is why the pressure remains rather constant until all the liquid is gone. After that the pressure starts to drop as there are no more liquid the bubble up. At this point is only a matter of about a week before all gas is gone. I would replace the cylinder when the pressure drops below 600 psi as many regulators will not perform well below that.

Let us know how it goes.

Enjoy!
Jose


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Did I write what I wrote? What the heck am I talking about! Well..... Nevermind.

Current Tank Info: 225 gal reef, DSB, 40 g sump w/ LRT100 return, 37 g pre-sump, 3 MH 250 W 15K, 4 96 W PC dual actinic,ETS 1500 Skim.w/LRT70, 20 lb Ca R., 40 W UV, 1/3 HP chiller, two 350 W Htrs, Neptune II Cont., 330 P LR/ 330 P LS. 55 gal Refugium
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Unread 10/22/2014, 02:06 PM   #182
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I definitely checked the weight and its indeed 20lbs and checked it the way you described. I do remember doing a bleed down test as the AP.com website suggests before opening the cylinder valve. I closed the regulator by unscrewing counterclockwise all the way then i opened the cylinder and left it like that for about 5 minutes and I did not notice any loss in pressure. Then i opened the regulator valve to the desired PSI value of about 10-12 PSI. Stayed there for 2 weeks then as the tank pressure started dropping on the second week..the secondary pressure started increasing until it maxed out at 15 psi.

Right now i have my older reef fanatic regulator connected and so far so good but its only been 1 week. Checked for leaks also everywhere i can see to check and didnt see any. I guess time will only tell now.


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Unread 10/27/2014, 10:50 AM   #183
jdieck
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tassod View Post
I definitely checked the weight and its indeed 20lbs and checked it the way you described. I do remember doing a bleed down test as the AP.com website suggests before opening the cylinder valve. I closed the regulator by unscrewing counterclockwise all the way then i opened the cylinder and left it like that for about 5 minutes and I did not notice any loss in pressure. Then i opened the regulator valve to the desired PSI value of about 10-12 PSI. Stayed there for 2 weeks then as the tank pressure started dropping on the second week..the secondary pressure started increasing until it maxed out at 15 psi.

Right now i have my older reef fanatic regulator connected and so far so good but its only been 1 week. Checked for leaks also everywhere i can see to check and didnt see any. I guess time will only tell now.
How did it go?
Still emptying the cylinder too fast?

Jose


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Current Tank Info: 225 gal reef, DSB, 40 g sump w/ LRT100 return, 37 g pre-sump, 3 MH 250 W 15K, 4 96 W PC dual actinic,ETS 1500 Skim.w/LRT70, 20 lb Ca R., 40 W UV, 1/3 HP chiller, two 350 W Htrs, Neptune II Cont., 330 P LR/ 330 P LS. 55 gal Refugium
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Unread 10/27/2014, 10:53 AM   #184
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Tank pressure still showing full in the 800 PSI range and I've past the 2 week mark...does this mean the issue was the AP regulator?


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Unread 10/27/2014, 12:01 PM   #185
jdieck
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Originally Posted by tassod View Post
Tank pressure still showing full in the 800 PSI range and I've past the 2 week mark...does this mean the issue was the AP regulator?
Provably but keep on monitoring as the pressure should not drop for a year or so.


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Did I write what I wrote? What the heck am I talking about! Well..... Nevermind.

Current Tank Info: 225 gal reef, DSB, 40 g sump w/ LRT100 return, 37 g pre-sump, 3 MH 250 W 15K, 4 96 W PC dual actinic,ETS 1500 Skim.w/LRT70, 20 lb Ca R., 40 W UV, 1/3 HP chiller, two 350 W Htrs, Neptune II Cont., 330 P LR/ 330 P LS. 55 gal Refugium
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Unread 11/03/2015, 04:11 PM   #186
tassod
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Provably but keep on monitoring as the pressure should not drop for a year or so.
Hey Jose,

Thought i would let you know that its been over a year now and that Co2 tank is still going with no drop in pressure and levels steady! Sure beats dosing.


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Unread 12/12/2015, 08:54 PM   #187
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Jumping in....

So, I noticed tonight what looks like sediment, possibly calcified, in the bubble counter. Not good. But I see no way to remove the bubble counter or otherwise clean it out. Not clear what happened. But clearly this needs to be addressed.

Anyone able to help here?


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Current Tank Info: 156G "brick", 150 sump and 75 fuge replaces Fire, Destruction, Sad :(
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Unread 12/13/2015, 10:53 PM   #188
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Thumbs up

Quote:
Originally Posted by tassod View Post
Hey Jose,

Thought i would let you know that its been over a year now and that Co2 tank is still going with no drop in pressure and levels steady! Sure beats dosing.
That is Great!


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Did I write what I wrote? What the heck am I talking about! Well..... Nevermind.

Current Tank Info: 225 gal reef, DSB, 40 g sump w/ LRT100 return, 37 g pre-sump, 3 MH 250 W 15K, 4 96 W PC dual actinic,ETS 1500 Skim.w/LRT70, 20 lb Ca R., 40 W UV, 1/3 HP chiller, two 350 W Htrs, Neptune II Cont., 330 P LR/ 330 P LS. 55 gal Refugium
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Unread 12/13/2015, 10:58 PM   #189
jdieck
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Originally Posted by ostrow View Post
Jumping in....

So, I noticed tonight what looks like sediment, possibly calcified, in the bubble counter. Not good. But I see no way to remove the bubble counter or otherwise clean it out. Not clear what happened. But clearly this needs to be addressed.

Anyone able to help here?
Hi Joel.
If it is loose sediment you can try disconecting the CO2, remove the check valve and let the water drain trough the counter while the recirculatin pump is running.
If that does not remove the sediment or if it is incrusted, next time you empty the reactor just fill it with a mix of fresh water and vinega and let it drain trough the counter after removing the check valve.

Merry Christmas everyone


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Did I write what I wrote? What the heck am I talking about! Well..... Nevermind.

Current Tank Info: 225 gal reef, DSB, 40 g sump w/ LRT100 return, 37 g pre-sump, 3 MH 250 W 15K, 4 96 W PC dual actinic,ETS 1500 Skim.w/LRT70, 20 lb Ca R., 40 W UV, 1/3 HP chiller, two 350 W Htrs, Neptune II Cont., 330 P LR/ 330 P LS. 55 gal Refugium
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Unread 12/14/2015, 08:40 AM   #190
jdieck
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cvhjh View Post
I looked for that needle valve that is more precise, i could not find the what you were referencing too. I would rather not purchase another regulator if i can get away with it. Could you repost a link?
Try this one:
http://products.marinedepot.com/need...r_11415956.php
Keep in mind that all needle valves will be very sensitive if your regulator can not maintain a stable preassure of 10 psi or less.


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Did I write what I wrote? What the heck am I talking about! Well..... Nevermind.

Current Tank Info: 225 gal reef, DSB, 40 g sump w/ LRT100 return, 37 g pre-sump, 3 MH 250 W 15K, 4 96 W PC dual actinic,ETS 1500 Skim.w/LRT70, 20 lb Ca R., 40 W UV, 1/3 HP chiller, two 350 W Htrs, Neptune II Cont., 330 P LR/ 330 P LS. 55 gal Refugium
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Unread 12/15/2015, 08:28 AM   #191
ostrow
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jdieck View Post
Hi Joel.
If it is loose sediment you can try disconecting the CO2, remove the check valve and let the water drain trough the counter while the recirculatin pump is running.
If that does not remove the sediment or if it is incrusted, next time you empty the reactor just fill it with a mix of fresh water and vinega and let it drain trough the counter after removing the check valve.

Merry Christmas everyone
Thanks. I drained the reactor, removed the pipe assembly, filled the counter with a weak muriatic acid solution and rinsed well. That seemed to do it.

When I re-filled and restarted it looked like a bit re-entered. Not sure from where. But looks ok now.

The odd thing is, my GFO was a very light gray color and my PO4 was high (.3!) I replaced all the GFO. Figures this will happen 3 days before leaving town. It is always just before leaving town. Always.

No clue about what is going on...


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It's the return of Dr. Goodluck Himself. fml!

Current Tank Info: 156G "brick", 150 sump and 75 fuge replaces Fire, Destruction, Sad :(
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Unread 12/15/2015, 12:34 PM   #192
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How do I connect another chamber with Geo cal rx to add Dolomites or additional cal rx media.


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