Clamp your hoses!!!!! Noob mistake

Capsle · 08/06/2016, 07:45 AM

Hey Reefers,

Just wanted to share the importance and new bee mistake I made.

All my drainage to the sump is hard plumbed in PCV and glued with no issue.

My return to the tank is 1" flex tube going from the return pump to a check valve then to the tank through a bulkhead. My flex tube is clamped at the bulk head and both sides of the check valve.

I did not clamp the flex tube on my return pump however. The reason being is I had suck a hard time getting it on in the first place I thought to myself there is no way this is coming off since it was so tight. Also I figured if it did leak a bit it wasn't an issue seeing as it was in my sump.

Well, last night I was playing around in my sump and accidentally hit the return line. I'm guessing most of you have seen the fountains at the Belagio Hotel in Vegas, you know the ones with the skyrocketing jet streams of water going 50+ feet in the air! Let's just say I had unintentionally recreated the exact same thing! A 1" water stream with a 1300 gph pump going full force up and hitting the top of my stand. I got my hand over the pump wishing a few seconds but a few seconds too late.

My wife was breastfeeding upstairs and couldn't come turn the power off. I finally managed to get my return hose back on and shut the power off.

Needless to say CLAMP ALL YOUR HOSES!!

Caps

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billdogg · 08/06/2016, 07:59 AM

Lesson learned? Been there, done that, and many more like it.

Just one suggestion - you should remove the check valve - it will fail due to build up of gunk. If you think you need it to prevent a back siphon into the sump, you need to redesign your return line. Simply positioning it closer to the surface will create an automatic siphon break for you. If your sump is so small that it cannot hold the water that drains back when the power is off, your sump is too small, and relying on a check valve will just give a false sense of security.

Although it might be a pia to change things around, doing so now will save the flood from happening.

elFloyd · 08/06/2016, 08:12 AM

Zip ties work well as clamps.

I've also learned to soak flex PVC or any tubing in very hot water to soften it up. Slides on much easier and you can push it further up a graduated nipple.

Capsle · 08/06/2016, 08:22 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by billdogg

Lesson learned? Been there, done that, and many more like it.

Just one suggestion - you should remove the check valve - it will fail due to build up of gunk. If you think you need it to prevent a back siphon into the sump, you need to redesign your return line. Simply positioning it closer to the surface will create an automatic siphon break for you. If your sump is so small that it cannot hold the water that drains back when the power is off, your sump is too small, and relying on a check valve will just give a false sense of security.

Although it might be a pia to change things around, doing so now will save the flood from happening.

My sump can hold all the back siphon from my tank with about 3" to spare. The check valve isn't necessary but more of a precaution.

I'm more worried about my DT overflowing and not really sure how to full proof it.

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billdogg · 08/06/2016, 08:42 AM

If your drain line(s) are sized properly the DT cannot overflow.

And fwiw, the only thing check valves do is create a restriction and therefore reduce overall flow.

Sk8r · 08/06/2016, 12:31 PM

A check valve is a flood waiting to happen: get a manually adjustable gate valve.

visionary · 08/06/2016, 12:44 PM

i've learned if you throw your hoses in the dryer, they straighten out. make sure you lay them flat on the floor. it's pretty amazing lol.

elFloyd · 08/06/2016, 07:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by visionary

i've learned if you throw your hoses in the dryer, they straighten out. make sure you lay them flat on the floor. it's pretty amazing lol.

Never tried that one... But it makes sense. I need to straighten a ten foot section of 1" flex PVC... Think I'll wait until Mrs.elFloyd is out of the house.

Crumpy · 08/07/2016, 07:26 AM

I agree with the zip ties in my sump anything underneath the water line I use zip ties. In the marine/boating field they sell zip ties that are made to wrap hoses for a tight fit . Anything above the water line I recommend not cheaping out and buying the nicest stainless steel clamps you can . The ones at west marine are excellent they do not have the cuts in the band so they will not scar or cut hoses. Also less likely to rust in a salty humid sump.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

mullerjd · 08/07/2016, 10:37 AM

I learned a lesson about clamps a few months ago however mine was inside my tank. Just received a GFO reactor and have no sump so have the pump in tank. Didn't clamp the hose to the pump and while I was away it broke loose. The pump was pushing a lot of water which ended up blasting my Torch and Duncan's which hated it and bothe died from the beating.

Volcmreefer · 08/07/2016, 01:08 PM

+1 for zip ties. Just make sure you tighten the crap out of them!

NAClFiSHy · 08/07/2016, 05:33 PM

noted.

Mike Ordner · 08/07/2016, 05:54 PM

I would also go with a zip tie or a plastic hose clamp. Even stainless steel will eventually rust and you are not sure what all the metals are in that "rust".

08/06/2016, 07:45 AM	#1
Capsle Registered Member Join Date: Jul 2016 Location: Montreal, Quebec, Canada Posts: 385	Clamp your hoses!!!!! Noob mistake Hey Reefers, Just wanted to share the importance and new bee mistake I made. All my drainage to the sump is hard plumbed in PCV and glued with no issue. My return to the tank is 1" flex tube going from the return pump to a check valve then to the tank through a bulkhead. My flex tube is clamped at the bulk head and both sides of the check valve. I did not clamp the flex tube on my return pump however. The reason being is I had suck a hard time getting it on in the first place I thought to myself there is no way this is coming off since it was so tight. Also I figured if it did leak a bit it wasn't an issue seeing as it was in my sump. Well, last night I was playing around in my sump and accidentally hit the return line. I'm guessing most of you have seen the fountains at the Belagio Hotel in Vegas, you know the ones with the skyrocketing jet streams of water going 50+ feet in the air! Let's just say I had unintentionally recreated the exact same thing! A 1" water stream with a 1300 gph pump going full force up and hitting the top of my stand. I got my hand over the pump wishing a few seconds but a few seconds too late. My wife was breastfeeding upstairs and couldn't come turn the power off. I finally managed to get my return hose back on and shut the power off. Needless to say CLAMP ALL YOUR HOSES!! Caps Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk __________________ Caps Current Tank Info: 65G DT with custom overflow, 35G custom sump, maxspect R420r 180w 15K, reef octopus classic 150 skimmer.

08/06/2016, 07:59 AM	#2
billdogg Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: Grove City, Ohio Posts: 10,806	Lesson learned? Been there, done that, and many more like it. Just one suggestion - you should remove the check valve - it will fail due to build up of gunk. If you think you need it to prevent a back siphon into the sump, you need to redesign your return line. Simply positioning it closer to the surface will create an automatic siphon break for you. If your sump is so small that it cannot hold the water that drains back when the power is off, your sump is too small, and relying on a check valve will just give a false sense of security. Although it might be a pia to change things around, doing so now will save the flood from happening. __________________ I'll try to be nice if you try to be smarter! I can't help that I grow older, but you can't make me grow up! Current Tank Info: 120 mixed reef with 40b sump, RO 150 skimmer, AI Sol Blue x 2, and a 60g Frag Tank with 100g rubbermaid sump. 2 x Kessil A360w lights, BM curve 5 skimmer

08/06/2016, 08:42 AM	#5
billdogg Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: Grove City, Ohio Posts: 10,806	If your drain line(s) are sized properly the DT cannot overflow. And fwiw, the only thing check valves do is create a restriction and therefore reduce overall flow. __________________ I'll try to be nice if you try to be smarter! I can't help that I grow older, but you can't make me grow up! Current Tank Info: 120 mixed reef with 40b sump, RO 150 skimmer, AI Sol Blue x 2, and a 60g Frag Tank with 100g rubbermaid sump. 2 x Kessil A360w lights, BM curve 5 skimmer

08/06/2016, 12:31 PM	#6
Sk8r RC Mod Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: Spokane WA Posts: 34,628 Blog Entries: 55	A check valve is a flood waiting to happen: get a manually adjustable gate valve. __________________ Sk8r Salinity 1.024-6; alkalinity 8.3-9.3 on KH scale; calcium 420; magnesium 1300, temp 78-80, nitrate .2. Ammonia 0. No filters: lps tank. Alk and cal won't rise if mg is low. Current Tank Info: 105g AquaVim wedge, yellow tang, sailfin blenny,royal gramma, ocellaris clown pair, yellow watchman, 100 microceriths, 25 tiny hermits, a 4" conch, 1" nassarius, recovering from 2 year hiatus with daily water change of 10%.

08/06/2016, 08:12 AM	#3
elFloyd Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: Cumming, GA Posts: 421	Zip ties work well as clamps. I've also learned to soak flex PVC or any tubing in very hot water to soften it up. Slides on much easier and you can push it further up a graduated nipple.

08/06/2016, 12:44 PM	#7
visionary Registered Member Join Date: Feb 2016 Posts: 5	i've learned if you throw your hoses in the dryer, they straighten out. make sure you lay them flat on the floor. it's pretty amazing lol.

08/07/2016, 07:26 AM	#9
Crumpy Registered Member Join Date: Mar 2015 Posts: 61	I agree with the zip ties in my sump anything underneath the water line I use zip ties. In the marine/boating field they sell zip ties that are made to wrap hoses for a tight fit . Anything above the water line I recommend not cheaping out and buying the nicest stainless steel clamps you can . The ones at west marine are excellent they do not have the cuts in the band so they will not scar or cut hoses. Also less likely to rust in a salty humid sump. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

08/07/2016, 10:37 AM	#10
mullerjd Registered Member Join Date: Dec 2012 Location: Colchester, CT Posts: 60	I learned a lesson about clamps a few months ago however mine was inside my tank. Just received a GFO reactor and have no sump so have the pump in tank. Didn't clamp the hose to the pump and while I was away it broke loose. The pump was pushing a lot of water which ended up blasting my Torch and Duncan's which hated it and bothe died from the beating.

08/07/2016, 01:08 PM	#11
Volcmreefer Registered Member Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: Milton, FL Posts: 346	+1 for zip ties. Just make sure you tighten the crap out of them!

08/07/2016, 05:33 PM	#12
NAClFiSHy Registered Member Join Date: Jul 2013 Posts: 61	noted.

08/07/2016, 05:54 PM	#13
Mike Ordner Registered Member Join Date: Sep 2009 Location: Corpus Christi, Texas Posts: 415	I would also go with a zip tie or a plastic hose clamp. Even stainless steel will eventually rust and you are not sure what all the metals are in that "rust".