What constitutes a mature tank?

deputydawg88 · 06/17/2017, 09:22 AM

I know my tank is probably no where near being considered a mature tank, being about 5 months old, but I was wondering what the criteria is for a tank to be considered mature? Is there a definitive list or, like with most things in this hobby, does it vary from tank to tank?

billdogg · 06/17/2017, 11:06 AM

IMHO, once it has been stable for a year or so. Longer is better. Some of the rocks and sand in my tank have been with me and wet for almost 30 years.

Tcox · 06/17/2017, 03:05 PM

To me maturity is reached once you've reached stability and have held stability for several months. To be a little more specific, by stable im talking about being past bacteria and algae blooms, no more major flux in pod population, maybe steady coralline growth, but most importantly steady water perameters for extended periods. This is a dynamic topic.

FWIW, my 4' 75g started being stable after about 7 months, while my 60 Cube has still gone though various blooms at 14 months.

Tspors58 · 06/17/2017, 04:04 PM

When your comfortable going a year without testing.
Minimal maintenance

Ron Reefman · 06/17/2017, 04:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tspors58

When your comfortable going a year without testing.

Tspors58, that's not a mature tank, that a tank with an owner who doesn't care enough!

deputydawg88, IMHO, and I talk about 'mature tanks' all the time, it's when the blooms have stopped, you've been able to get to months of keeping water parameters stable, coraline algae is growing well and other new things start to appear in the tank like sponges under rocks, tiny feather dusters, spaghetti worms, ect. And I don't mean they show up as blooms, but as small numbers and stay as stable populations in the tank.

Tcox is right on about this being a very dynamic situation. If done right and done well, a new tank can be at the start of maturity in 6 to 9 months. Done wrong or done poorly it can take years. My new 125g is full of everything from my old 180g that broke. I cleaned the sand but the live rock and corals and all the critters (snails, crabs, shrimp, sea stars, cucumbers, macro algae) had been in the 180g for 5+ years. The new 125g still had a big diatom bloom and a small hairy algae bloom in the first few months. I'd say it's just become mature at 8 months.

Tspors58 · 06/18/2017, 04:03 PM

Hey Ron Thanks for the Cheap Shot. Stable because of my consistency. Today's water in my 210 is 2 years old, which came from my 11 year old 150.
Actually it's the dedication and preciseness given to my personal waterworld that allows me to not test. To the Deputy larger tanks are more stable, little things don't bother them as much. I also find that people dosing with things need to test because they are altering the chemistry.

homer1475 · 06/18/2017, 04:13 PM

There is no way in heck I would go a year without testing! A couple weeks, sure. I can usually look at my corals and tell if something is off.

I would agree maturity comes when all the "blooms" have stopped, critter populations have evened out, and parameters stay fairly consistent.

Typically we say a year as that also gives us time to get into a routine with the tank. Our maturity in the hobby if you will.

JoeyH08 · 06/18/2017, 04:38 PM

What do you guys mean critter population evening out?

ericarenee · 06/18/2017, 04:40 PM

what is testing and what are we testing for...

I agree with Ron and some of the others.. I have upgraded tanks and moved things from one system to another for well over 20 years..When i got my first batch of live rock i bought it locally out of a 30 year old system.. so i know some of my rock has been in a tank steady for 50 plus years ..

ohh Joking on the testing part.. But i only test when i notice something off where i did not do anything to give reason . But testing Nutrient levels Calcium Alk monthly should be the longest you go without testing...

GOOD LUCK .

thegrun · 06/18/2017, 04:47 PM

I don't see taking exception to your "going a year without testing" comment as a "Cheap Shot", I see it as wise advice to what I would view as your unsound advice of advocating going extended periods of time without testing regardless of your ecperience in the hobby. Frequent testing can help even someone with years of experience prevent major tank problems by spotting minor chemical issues before they become major problems.

Ztous · 06/18/2017, 05:10 PM

I don't see one year as a mature tank. I've seen 10 year old tanks that looked "mature" to me, granted it's subtle but to there is a difference for me. Stable is a better descriptor for a 1 year old tank. My tank is stable but I don't view it as matured it will change a lot in the next few years.

Ron Reefman · 06/19/2017, 04:38 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tspors58

Hey Ron Thanks for the Cheap Shot. Stable because of my consistency. Today's water in my 210 is 2 years old, which came from my 11 year old 150.
Actually it's the dedication and preciseness given to my personal waterworld that allows me to not test. To the Deputy larger tanks are more stable, little things don't bother them as much. I also find that people dosing with things need to test because they are altering the chemistry.

You are quite welcome. But like mcgyvr, I don't think it was a 'Cheap Shot'. I think it was well deserved!

I'm sorry but I don't care how you tend to your tank, unless it is a very simple FOWLR or all soft coral tank, going a year without testing is VERY BAD ADVISE. It may work for you, but it's still very bad advise to be giving to others.

Personally, I think you were just 'showing off' or being a 'troll'. If you have any LPS or SPS corals in your tank, they grow and use more Ca, alk and Mg. Even coraline algae uses Ca, alk and Mg. How do you know the proper amount to dose? Oh, you don't dose. If you don't do water changes you have to dose.

Give us a SERIOUS explanation of how you don't do water changes for 2 years, don't dose Ca, alk or Mg and still have healthy stony coral and I'll offer my most humble apology.

deputydawg88 · 06/19/2017, 05:46 AM

So far I have only been testing for ammonia, nitrite and nitrate, should I be testing for anything else?

My water chemistry with regards to the above tests has been mostly stable since it cycled, with only one or two very small nitrite spikes. I currently am dealing with some cyano but since a water change, three days without lights and two days with reduced lighting, the cyano is significantly reduced. I intend to do further water changes in the next few days/weeks.

I don't really have any intention of keeping any stoney corals yet, I am no where near experienced enough and to be honest, I'm not convinced my 33g tank is appropriate for such an endeavour. Though I may end up adding some soft corals, it depends on how things go and if I begin to feel more confident in my care-taking; so far I have only really had one mishap and that was a bi-colour blenny jumping while I was out so there's not much I can really do about that... I have a mandarin and a LMB who both seem to be doing brilliantly and a refugium absolutely teeming with life.

06/17/2017, 09:22 AM	#1
deputydawg88 Registered Member Join Date: Feb 2017 Posts: 141	What constitutes a mature tank? I know my tank is probably no where near being considered a mature tank, being about 5 months old, but I was wondering what the criteria is for a tank to be considered mature? Is there a definitive list or, like with most things in this hobby, does it vary from tank to tank?

06/17/2017, 11:06 AM	#2
billdogg Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: Grove City, Ohio Posts: 10,806	IMHO, once it has been stable for a year or so. Longer is better. Some of the rocks and sand in my tank have been with me and wet for almost 30 years. __________________ I'll try to be nice if you try to be smarter! I can't help that I grow older, but you can't make me grow up! Current Tank Info: 120 mixed reef with 40b sump, RO 150 skimmer, AI Sol Blue x 2, and a 60g Frag Tank with 100g rubbermaid sump. 2 x Kessil A360w lights, BM curve 5 skimmer

06/17/2017, 04:04 PM	#4
Tspors58 Registered Member Join Date: Jun 2015 Location: Appleton, WI. Posts: 145	When your comfortable going a year without testing. Minimal maintenance __________________ Keep it simple. Take it slow. Long Term Hobby. Current Tank Info: 210g w/Eshopps RS-200 sump, Reef Octopus Classic 150 SSS, Inline Ocean Clear Filter, 2 Kessel 360W, Jebao DC-8000, & 2 Jebao WP40 Wavemakers

06/18/2017, 04:03 PM	#6
Tspors58 Registered Member Join Date: Jun 2015 Location: Appleton, WI. Posts: 145	Hey Ron Thanks for the Cheap Shot. Stable because of my consistency. Today's water in my 210 is 2 years old, which came from my 11 year old 150. Actually it's the dedication and preciseness given to my personal waterworld that allows me to not test. To the Deputy larger tanks are more stable, little things don't bother them as much. I also find that people dosing with things need to test because they are altering the chemistry. __________________ Keep it simple. Take it slow. Long Term Hobby. Current Tank Info: 210g w/Eshopps RS-200 sump, Reef Octopus Classic 150 SSS, Inline Ocean Clear Filter, 2 Kessel 360W, Jebao DC-8000, & 2 Jebao WP40 Wavemakers

06/18/2017, 04:13 PM	#7
homer1475 Registered Member Join Date: Mar 2015 Location: Upstate NY Posts: 5,313	There is no way in heck I would go a year without testing! A couple weeks, sure. I can usually look at my corals and tell if something is off. I would agree maturity comes when all the "blooms" have stopped, critter populations have evened out, and parameters stay fairly consistent. Typically we say a year as that also gives us time to get into a routine with the tank. Our maturity in the hobby if you will. __________________ 80G SCA Build: http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2560256 Originally posted by der_wille_zur_macht: "He's just taking his lunch to work"

06/17/2017, 03:05 PM	#3
Tcox Registered Member Join Date: May 2015 Posts: 149	To me maturity is reached once you've reached stability and have held stability for several months. To be a little more specific, by stable im talking about being past bacteria and algae blooms, no more major flux in pod population, maybe steady coralline growth, but most importantly steady water perameters for extended periods. This is a dynamic topic. FWIW, my 4' 75g started being stable after about 7 months, while my 60 Cube has still gone though various blooms at 14 months.

06/18/2017, 04:38 PM	#8
JoeyH08 Registered Member Join Date: Jun 2016 Posts: 56	What do you guys mean critter population evening out?

06/18/2017, 04:40 PM	#9
ericarenee Registered Member Join Date: Sep 2013 Location: Louisville Kentucky Posts: 3,110	what is testing and what are we testing for... I agree with Ron and some of the others.. I have upgraded tanks and moved things from one system to another for well over 20 years..When i got my first batch of live rock i bought it locally out of a 30 year old system.. so i know some of my rock has been in a tank steady for 50 plus years .. ohh Joking on the testing part.. But i only test when i notice something off where i did not do anything to give reason . But testing Nutrient levels Calcium Alk monthly should be the longest you go without testing... GOOD LUCK . __________________ 240+G Mixed BB Reef tank.. 350 G Marine Pond. And the expensive stuff that runs it. Chic's are for Chic's You silly men Go Fishing or something... Current Tank Info: 240= gal Reef /550 Gallon Saltwater pond 72 G Bay front Tropical aquarium

06/18/2017, 04:47 PM	#10
thegrun Registered Member Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: Garden Grove, Ca Posts: 17,023	I don't see taking exception to your "going a year without testing" comment as a "Cheap Shot", I see it as wise advice to what I would view as your unsound advice of advocating going extended periods of time without testing regardless of your ecperience in the hobby. Frequent testing can help even someone with years of experience prevent major tank problems by spotting minor chemical issues before they become major problems.

06/18/2017, 05:10 PM	#11
Ztous Registered Member Join Date: Dec 2015 Posts: 220	I don't see one year as a mature tank. I've seen 10 year old tanks that looked "mature" to me, granted it's subtle but to there is a difference for me. Stable is a better descriptor for a 1 year old tank. My tank is stable but I don't view it as matured it will change a lot in the next few years.

06/19/2017, 05:46 AM	#13
deputydawg88 Registered Member Join Date: Feb 2017 Posts: 141	So far I have only been testing for ammonia, nitrite and nitrate, should I be testing for anything else? My water chemistry with regards to the above tests has been mostly stable since it cycled, with only one or two very small nitrite spikes. I currently am dealing with some cyano but since a water change, three days without lights and two days with reduced lighting, the cyano is significantly reduced. I intend to do further water changes in the next few days/weeks. I don't really have any intention of keeping any stoney corals yet, I am no where near experienced enough and to be honest, I'm not convinced my 33g tank is appropriate for such an endeavour. Though I may end up adding some soft corals, it depends on how things go and if I begin to feel more confident in my care-taking; so far I have only really had one mishap and that was a bi-colour blenny jumping while I was out so there's not much I can really do about that... I have a mandarin and a LMB who both seem to be doing brilliantly and a refugium absolutely teeming with life.