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Unread 01/30/2018, 01:59 AM   #26
HBtank
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Quote:
Originally Posted by homer1475 View Post
Wow reading what I typed came off kinda d*ckish! Certainly didn't mean it to be that way. Sorry.

While it certainly can be done, I just don't think its a very good idea. After owning a pico reef(3 gallons) I can attest to how much harder it is to maintain solid parameters then a larger tank. Considering your considering 1/3 of that volume, I wouldn't be afraid to say its nearly impossible.
There are lots of tiny ~1 gallon tanks out there, should check it out; it’s done from a different perspective than traditional tanks centered on essentially sealing the tank with just an airline between weekly 100% water changes right after massive feedings. Parameters are not a consideration, tank is reset weekly.


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80g Aiptasia dominated reef tank.. with fish and now a bunch of berghia!

Current Tank Info: 80g tank, re-starting a reef after a zoanthid nudibranch plauge, followed by months of steady and unstoppable STN/RTN, crashed; stayed FOWLR for a couple years, currently an aiptasia dominated reef tank with fishies and BERGHIA
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Unread 01/30/2018, 02:27 AM   #27
Austrarhyncus
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A heat source seems to be absolutely necessary unless in a tropical climate, which most of us aren't in, so I would need to find a source of heat if I am to keep corals


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Unread 01/30/2018, 02:29 AM   #28
Austrarhyncus
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Originally Posted by HBtank View Post
There are lots of tiny ~1 gallon tanks out there, should check it out; it’s done from a different perspective than traditional tanks centered on essentially sealing the tank with just an airline between weekly 100% water changes right after massive feedings. Parameters are not a consideration, tank is reset weekly.
Yeh, some of them are really quite spectacular and are a cheaper and simpler alternative to a regular 100g reef tank.


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Unread 01/30/2018, 05:37 AM   #29
ReefkeeperZ
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as for a bulb that could generate heat 24/7 with no light
https://www.google.com/aclk?sa=l&ai=...9aACCFM&adurl=

then put it on a dimmer controlled fixture place it directed at the cup and spend several days dialing it in to get the correct temp maintained in the tank. ceramic heat emmiters produce zero light.


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Unread 01/30/2018, 06:58 AM   #30
Austrarhyncus
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Wow, that's pretty handy, not sure if I should go with the reptile heat emitter or heat mat, which ever is cheaper here in Australia, I guess.


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Unread 01/30/2018, 07:00 AM   #31
homer1475
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Your in AU....

Do you even need a heater?


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80G SCA Build: http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2560256

Originally posted by der_wille_zur_macht:

"He's just taking his lunch to work"
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Unread 01/30/2018, 07:14 AM   #32
ReefkeeperZ
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Originally Posted by Austrarhyncus View Post
Wow, that's pretty handy, not sure if I should go with the reptile heat emitter or heat mat, which ever is cheaper here in Australia, I guess.
just dont splash water on it.... high temp ceramic plus cooler water equals shattered ceramic.


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Unread 01/30/2018, 07:27 AM   #33
Austrarhyncus
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Well even when it does get boiling hot (it is summer at the moment) a tank relying solely on ambient temperature, even here in Australia, would still fluctuate quite a lot. Plus it gets cold in winter. I still use a heater for my tropical tank to keep the temperature stable and in an ideal range.

I'll keep that in mind, keeping the ceramic dry won't be hard.


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